1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,051
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    I agree 100% with this. My work environment is CBD, and I wear the E. Zegna Roma cut that Kulata posted without hesitation.
     
  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,051
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Good for you @Cleav . You don't mess around. I litigate for a living and am not sure I would invest the time and energy pursuing him over this, so glad to hear you are holding him accountable.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
  3. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,628
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    Good points. While clag's fits always seem impeccable, I notice the shoulders in some of his jackets seem rather sloped and narrow (abetted perhaps by that hunched posture he sometimes adopts...not sure why). A side by side as TweedyProf suggests might be instructive.
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,006
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
    2 people like this.
  5. jedwards

    jedwards Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2006
    

    I've always thought that there is absolutely no need for most men to go bespoke in this day and age, if they can fit into the wide range of RTW / MTM options with a bit of tweaking.

    What I would say though @claghorn is, your suits look great, but you never really embraced the "BT tailor aesthetic" which feels a lot more dramatic than the suits you were commissioning. (That's not a criticism of course, just an observation) Now, that may be because you need to be 100% CBD in work, but sort of goes back to my original point, unless you have a difficult body shape, you might as well just go RTW/MTM.

    I only go to tailors for a specific aesthetic / house style I feel I can't get 'ordinarily' in RTW. If you are a guy with a normal build choosing normal colours / patterns and commissioning relatively expensive bespoke tailors to create fairly conservative stuff, you will get more ROI through a decent brand or MTM?
    Unless one enjoys the process of meeting with tailors etc.

    Either way, your suits look nice.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    I like the top pic as far as shoulders go. I don't think I'm qualified for any other critiquing except, bottom pic, CAMEL TOE! :D
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
  7. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,628
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    
    Don't know the technical term--armscye?--but look how the line of the sleeve head extends fairly straight down from the shoulder in the first pic, and how it's cut at a more exaggerated angle on the second. The shoulder on the top jacket is stronger and broader, definitely more flattering. Funny how something about the other shoulder always bugged me, but I couldn't put my finger on it. kulata nailed it. edit: scrolling back and forth between the two, it's amazing to me how much better the top jacket (I assume the BnT) looks. A good illustration of the difference superior tailoring can make.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
  8. timotune

    timotune Senior member

    Messages:
    1,046
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2009
    Location:
    Vienna, Austria
    

    Iirc, the top one is MTM.
    Both fit great, no need for bnt in your case imho.
     
  9. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,628
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    If this is the case, I concur.
     
  10. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    I'd only go for B&T if you want their aesthetic: extended shoulders, draped chest, high rise trousers, and a lower buttoning point. It's all very dramatic, but it does look very nice. Seeing as you prefer a more sober style, you might as well go back to MTM with some slight changes. FWIW, I do prefer the slightly bigger shoulders and chest on your B&T suit. Do you notice any difference in how it feels when wearing the suit?
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    I def prefer the BnT. The MTM has a high waist and flares out at the skirt, which I don't like. I would probably prefer lowering the waist and buttoning point of the BnT as well. Also is it just me or do your pockets end pretty far from the hem? Looks like they have a standard pocket size and always set the pocket at the bottom button, but you are taller than most of their customers.

    I wouldn't have done patch pockets on the top suit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Both suits look quite good to me, Claghorn, but you also seem to have a pretty developed wardrobe. If you still want to acquire a number of additional pieces, MTM is probably a more practical option and, while I think I slightly prefer the bespoke one, I don't think the incremental minor benefits are worth paying multiple times the price. On the other hand, if you are making more selective acquisitions at this point, you can make a slightly stronger argument for paying more per suit and doing a slow quality upgrade as others on here have done.

    Most men who are in reasonably good shape and don't have a lot of strange fitting issues can probably do just fine with good quality MTM IMHO.
     
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    The chest on the B&T just looks a lot better to me. I'm not sure what they are doing differently but it does, as others have noted, look fuller. The first one sits more flatly on your chest. The other striking feature, aside from shoulder extension is the slope of the shoulders which in the B&T looks more dramatic. I'm puzzled. Do you have a very sloping shoulder? Why are they so different, or is that an optical illusion?

    I suspect that for minor things like the skirt and shoulder expression, you might be able to get some adjustments with MTM. But not clear that MTM can reproduce well the substance in the chest drape. I do prefer the B&T (the bottom, yes?). That said, I also think you would do fine to continue with the MTM with some adjustment. The MTM is pretty good; looks good.

    A thought: since you have so many things, why not just slowly accumulate pieces with B&T? Do you really need 6-12 new suits for the price of 3 good B&T ones? Assuming you have a good wardrobe at this point, I suggest B&T to round out and expand a good base.

    Edit: one thing to consider that doesn't come up in this thread so much. You might want to have a family some day (if you don't already), and kids are expensive. It's nice to spend money on clothes but in the long run, sacrifices would have to be made. Your MTM would be more than fine when redistribution of resources is needed, like diapers and daycare--unless your job is going to pay X times the salary you currently make.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Is there some norm for where the pockets end or begin? I've asked in the tailor's thread, and the response from some of them suggested that there isn't a norm, but a certain setting might be more aesthetically pleasing, depending on height etc. Do you have a thought about this?
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    I don't have any rule about it, but Clags' pockets look a little high to me. I think I would have just made them bigger.

    Does BnT always use a front dart? Interesting they would do that as Liverano generally does not.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. AJL

    AJL Senior member

    Messages:
    2,628
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2004
    

    I can see what others are saying about the fuller chest and shapelier waist on the BnT, but it is that sloping shoulder that throws me off. I find it too pronounced, though I may be in the minority on this. If it would be possible to extend the shoulder slightly on the mtm w/o that drooping shoulder effect it would strike a nice balance imo. It makes him look like he's slouching.

    Note : As I am still learning, I concede there are times I should listen more and comment less (see: reversing the i.d. of the two jackets and subsequent commentary). Seeing as this is the Noodles thread, perhaps there is a bit more latitude given for half-baked proclamations. :embar:
     
  17. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    I'd love to see examples of good fitting jackets versus bad fitting jackets to clearly point out what to look for. Then again, I just need to look at the rest of WAYWRN vs me to accomplish that. XD

    Sloped shoulder vs structured shoulder. I will dig around for some pix here. Let hammer out the jackets here at Noodles Thread. We have ties down. We have shoes down. We have a lot dwon.
     
  18. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Read this thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/115692/get-foofed It's focused on a particular style, but it's very entertaining and does offer some insight.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014
  19. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    
     
  20. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    I have this picture that I have saved, it's of an attolini model. Ultimately if I am ever able to achieve the fit, I'll sign off SF forever.

    It's what I consider an ideal suit fit.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by