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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Why do bad things happen to good people?

    I had one bad experience with Cappelli. I dont give a rats ass if everyone likes him. When I brought up an issue with my tie, he was like , "So what?!" I will never order from such a rude vendor. Greg is the best vendor and so is Sam Hober and Vanda. Just my two cents.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I have not seen Giavannis post for a long time...oh it's cus I blocked him.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  4. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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  5. teoky

    teoky Senior member

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    +1 to that. Include Jason from Henry Carter too. I brought up an issue regarding his tie recently, and he offered to ship me a new one on his cost. Great service and prompt response.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Steve @ Gentlemens footwear rocks my socks! :slayer:
     
  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    no love for me?
     
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  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    JRD did sell me the suit that was best fitting in my wardrobe collection and he deserves a shoutout. Lol

    So speaking of suits for me, are suits with structured shoulders (Zegna) a big no no for my body type? I know I bought everyrhing one size too small. But instead of keep posting fit pix and asking same darn questions I wud like to learn how to know when a suit fits me well. Here is what i know:
    - the length of the suit should cover the seat
    - when buttoned, the x is a no no

    Crap...movie is starting. 22 jump st.
     
  9. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    ^
    What would you consider your body type to be? If you do not have broad shoulders, then some structure / slight padding is not a bad thing, as it builds up diminutive shoulders...
     
  10. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    You did score me an amazing jacket that I haven't worn yet and threw in a free tie in some of my other pickups from you. :slayer:

    I was just going to leave you seller feedback but I don't have the links for the items you sold me and they won't let me without the URL :brick:
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Does anyone have an SF recommended reading list for Noodles? There are so many helpful threads that discuss basic fit issues, the country/city dichotomy, colour combinations, tailoring etc., but I can't remember their titles.

    I think both a natural shoulder and a roped shoulder would look good on you, but a roped shoulder might be best because it helps you avoid that pear shaped look. I'm not sure if Formosa has roped shoulder cuts. Other basic things you want to look for in a jacket:
    • Plenty of room in the shoulders. Extended shoulders would probably work wonders for you
    • Plenty of room in the chest, perhaps even some drape
    • Wider lapels
    • Jacket collar that sits very close to your shirt collar. Ideally it should "stick" to your shirt collar, i.e. no matter how you move it does not create a gap
    • High armholes, but not so high that they cut in your armpits
    • Buttoning point at or very close to your natural waist
    • Jacket length: It should sort of cut your body in half. Have someone measure you from the bottom of your collar to the ground, divide this by two and you have your ideal jacket length
    • Sleeve pitch: no wrinkles in your sleeves when standing naturally (please no monkey stance)
    • In general, there shouldn't be any major wrinkles in your jacket, in the front and back. Wrinkles usually indicate a fit issue
    • A jacket should not feel restrictive. It should be very comfortable and you should be able to move freely and do nearly anything you could do without a jacket
    • No overly shiny fabrics, probably best to stay away from higher super fabrics as well for regular wear. Perhaps nothing over S140 or S150.
    • Perhaps start creating a seasonal wardrobe: linen/fresco/cotton for summer, flannel/heavier wools/cords/moleskin for winter. Some fabrics might be more office appropriate than others

    Trouser fit:
    • Trousers are very hard to fit, and all of the different kinds of wrinkle patterns have their own issues associated with them. There are some good posts about this
    • In general, the legs should be straight lines without any major distortions. Every distortion/wrinkle that you see is probably caused by a fit issue
    • Higher rise, close to natural waist
    • I prefer side adjusters/suspenders over belts because of comfort and looks, but this is personal
    • Probably flat front because you have very skinny legs. Pleats/darts can help if you have more muscular legs
    • Not too aggressively tapered. I don't know your shoe size, but between 8.25-8.5" leg openings would probably be best
    • 1.75-2" cuffs with a slight break, get a faux cuff if there isn't enough material for a real one
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
    3 people like this.
  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    It's good thanks but I'm still investing on it. Especially, time. But let me first buy mine and the we'll see. :lol:
     
  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    If I can give you 100 thumbs up for this, I would. Thanks MKF.
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I'd agree with @Monkeyface except for the roped shoulders advice. Think it looks kinda of "affected." Not ideal for business
     
  15. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    please?

    :(
     
  16. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I certainly do not have broad shoulders. I think my shoulders are more on the average side or slight below avg.
     
  17. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Well, thanks Clags for raising this here.

    Not sure as to how to proceed really, particularly as legal action has been muted as a result of this open letter (see below) previously posted on the PC AV thread

    Spoilered for obvious reasons

    ________________________________________


    Gianni Cerutti,

    c/o Passagio Cravatte,

    It is with some regret that I have to take this course of action, though you have been forewarned and chosen to stop communicating with me.

    I have detailed my considerable concerns and outlined a solution yet you elect not to respond. I have offered professional assistance to you in regard to any issues you have and you have chosen not to engage with me.

    The correspondence I have sent shall, for the mean time, remain between you and I. Suffice to say though that I seek recompense for having purchased three 'vintage' ties which are plainly not vintage. In addition the third tie falls far below any reasonable standard one might expect.

    In short the tie pictured below -

    Is not vintage

    it is poorly constructed.

    It has a pull (mis-print) across the the front blade which falls just below the knot when tied.

    All of this astounds me particularly when you cited the reason for its late (!) delivery being that you had to personally check it to ensure the highest quality! Did you check it? I am left wondering why you sent the 'complimentary' pocket square?

    In my private correspondence I have mapped out the way forward. You should respond quickly, privately or otherwise, as you know matters are already with my advisers.

    In conclusion, throughout all of this, you have misled me.

    I look forward to hearing from you.

    Cleav

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  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Didn't he then threaten legal action?
     
  19. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    That is the inference taken from "I have informed my lawyers".
     
  20. timotune

    timotune Senior member

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    Seems like The Armoury is getting in business with bntailor.
    Better order your stuff now before 300% price increase ;)
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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