Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    teh sarcastic? that's pretty standard iGent widsom I just provided. Copied verbatim from Manton
     


  2. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    That cloth really isn't very lovely IMHO - just don't like the pattern that much. I mean, it's OK. But, what JRD said. Also, for the blazer suit thing that Clag does, I think a lighter colour helps as well as the texture - again, down a notch in formality helps the transition.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2014


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    looks fine as a suit

    Can't speak to the quality of the fabric.
     


  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I knew you were going to take it that way.
    I didn't know anything about that and I was actually being sincere.
    We appreciate your contribution.
     


  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    also this.
     


  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    That cloth actually looks pretty f'ing great for a suit. Dark navy with a subtle herringbone pattern - it's impeccable stuff. Without knowing anything of the hand or weight, of course...

    Now, is it good for a navy blazer? I'm not sure... Maybe with patches and reasonably contrasting button (medium brown, not too dark), that could fly. That said, I'd agree with others that say that a coarse open-weave or hopsack weave would be better choices for a blazersuit. Another alternative is blue flannel - that also makes a great blazersuit with patch pockets and brown buttons
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2014


  7. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    It's 9oz. Is that good/reasonable?

    Obviously I know nothing of its hand.
     


  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I'd love to have a navy flannel suit. Honestly, I'd love to have a full winter wardrobe in flannel. Charcoal, mid-gray, light-gray, navy, air-force blue, olive, dark brown. Oh, and some patterns...
     


  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    It's fine for a three season worsted suit but feels just too light for a navy blazer IMO
     


  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Each fabric weight has its purpose and 9 ounces is certainly in the reasonable and usable for a good part of the year range. You can easily get 6-7 months of wear out of a 9 ounce fabric depending on where you live. Heavier fabrics will remain more comfortable deeper into winter but will also be completely un-wearable in summer. On a truly hot day, you'll still be hot.

    Personally, I've started to gravitate to fabrics in the 10-12 ounce range and plan to stick to tropical weight wool / Fresco / wool linen blends for the summer. At some point you'll probably figure out what fabric weight is best for you for most of the year.
     


  11. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Have you worn a 12 oz. in summer yet? Curious to see how you felt in it. Even in an open weave fabric like a Fresco or whatever that seems like a whole lot of weight.

    I have a 7.5 oz. silk/linen/wool blend as a summer SC so 12 seems off the charts to me but obviously I haven't walked around in one all day so I'm inquiring.
     


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    It really depends on the temperature. I think it would be fine on a day with mild humidity in the 70s or perhaps on a cooler summer evening, but not in the 80s worn during the day. I've worn 12 ounce fabric occasionally on cooler days in the summer but would not want to do it on a typical summer day here in Chicago. I agree with you that it is a bit much.

    The thing is, we don't get much of a spring in Chicago, so erring on the side of slightly heavier fabrics works for about 2/3 of the year. By the time they really get uncomfortable, I am ready to bring out my summer stuff.
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I love me a patch pocket edge stitched navy flannel cashmere or wool with cashmere SC. Spoo has one from Brunello and I covet it every time I see it.
     


  14. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I love my not-quite navy DB from Canali. The material is just incredible. Wool/silk/linen blend, holds it shape and doesn't wrinkle (like a good worsted), but is soft like silk and breathable like linen. Would be wonderful fabric for a suit (although then you wouldn't have translucent MOP buttons on it)...

    [​IMG]

    I've spoilered the close-up. IRL colour is much darker (really a royal blue or light navy) but you can see the subtle herringbone pattern in this shot.

    [​IMG]

    Canali generally (perhaps always) do not reveal the source of their fabric. I don't think they actually own their own mill, although I may be wrong about that. Certainly they seem to get their hands on some really beautiful cloth though.

    There's a boutique just up the road from my Sydney office (which is basically why I have so much Canali stuff - I wait for the Xmas and June sales and then pounce on stuff I've spied through the year). I love going in there and just touching all the clothes. Real tactile eroticism.
     


  15. Putonghua73

    Putonghua73 Senior member

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    From viewing form the sidelines, I can't help feel that we need a recap and a reassessment of where Rudals is at, and where he wishes to take his next sartorial step before he even thinks about opening up his wallet.

    From what I gather so far:
    1. Prefers suits
    2. CBD environment
    3. Previously preferred fashion forward style re: narrow collars

    Can we have a recap of:
    1. How many suits?
    2. What cut / style?
    3. What colour and material?
    4. What accessories re: belts and shoes

    We can then assess the gaps in terms of Rudal's wardrobe fulfilling a number of requirements; and assess shirt and tie collection. The latter, much like shoes, should be easy if one follows the basics but too frequently, we get ahead of ourselves and make questionable choices when a sedate outlook would provide much better - and cost effective - results.

    I wouldn't even touch PS's until the basics are resolved. More to the point, Rudal's measurements.

    On that note, I'm more than happy to help out by offering to take this Vanda tie from whoever snagged the last one in stock.
     


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