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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    1. SPUUUUUUUUUUUUUURS BABY, SPURS!!!

    2. i dont know why but i cant stomach a g note on a SS suit. no rationale there, just a knee jerk reaction.

    3. my vandas hath arrived!!
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Ummmmmmmm... redacted? haha whoooooops :hide:
     
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  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I was thinking about that: which other brand offers a fully canvassed suit in S150s, wool/cashmere, wool/silk with a hand stitched spalla camicia shoulder, a hand stitched collar, wide lapels and 3 roll 2 buttoning for less than a $1000?

    The only one that comes close is Eidos at $1200, but I understand they're relatively slim/short fitting and you won't get as nice of a shoulder and fabric for that price. If you're really put off by a name, then it means the world of advertising has worked its wonders on you. If you want to you could remove the tiny Suitsupply label and say it was MTM, and no one would ever be the wiser.

    It makes me wonder what would happen if I were to start a brand that's very similar to Suitsupply in terms of price/quality, with a cut similar to Formosa, and call it some fancy sounding Italian name? Maybe put one or two elderly Italian sales associates in the store, play some Italian music and have pictures of old tailors. I've been thinking about that for a while now, and I bet it would work.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2014
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  4. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    ^You need to buy a defunct tailoring house so you have history. ;-)

    Suitsupply sounds like suitdepot you know like home depot and if you are wearing your sophisticated La Spalla, your colleague may be wearing a not so sophisticated Hudson. That will kill your Sartorial street cred since you guys are wearing basically the same brand. Hand work and canvas be damned :(



    Ok on a serious note there are other options:
    G Abo Napoli - Nice cuts
    Gajola - For skinny people
    Sartorio - Can be awesome
    Stile Latino - Awesome
     
    2 people like this.
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stitchy: fit pics NOW (on the vandas)
     
  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    That's actually a really good idea. Once I've saved up some cash in a couple of years I might just give it a shot.

    All of the Stile Latinos I've seen on ebay have very skinny lapels, same with Sartorio. I'm not familiar with the other brands, but I'd add Sartoria Partenopea to that list. They do retail for about $2500-$3500, so it's not exactly a fair comparison.
     
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    its not about the label. its that i have bought a few pairs of SS pants, and while they were nice, they were nowhere near 1k suit level. not in fabric or construction. then again, its certainly possible that those pants were lower level SS lines, and the higher lines are in fact made better. that is what i meant by knee jerk reaction.

    but from what i bought, a 1k SS suit made like those pants would be an overpriced fashion brand, not a bargain menswear item. meaning, it struck me as advertising was driving up the SS price, exactly the opposite of how i was understood.

    i should have been more clear in my post. :(
     
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  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I guess it is all about the marketing.
    When I initially approached Zegna, I thought they were the New England Patriots of suits. LOL.
    MADE IN ITALY and TREFEO FABRIC really had me sold.
    Before SF, I just didn't know any better so I just went with a brand that had (via good marketing) this clouded image of excellence.

    Now when I first heard of Suit Supply, it was via some offline friends and I gained this misconception that it was cheap, made in China, and associated with a word like, "Low quality." That was before I joined SF. Somewhere in my head I still hold that thought. I think of them as the IKEA of suits.

    Fast forward to the present, I hate Zegna. Overpriced and they have gotten caught up in fashion trend. Every time I go there just to take a peep, I hate their narrow lapel suits. For some reason, they're getting narrower as we speak. AND they have broken that $3,000 mark and so I feel like it is overpriced. Suit Supply? You guys know better than I do, so I'll take your word for it but I just don't want a closet full of SS. When I have some high quality suits, I will get some SS to fill in the gap. This has been Noodles' expression of his own opinion and taste...regardless of how dumb it may sound.
     
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  9. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    hopefully this week. :)
     
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  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cox:

    Why not save up for B&T? It seems close to the issue Rudals is considering in his SS vs Formosa back and forth. Less is more in this case?

    Fit is the question. It's easier to see fit if you do a boring robo pose, frontal view, arms to side. You may be, as often is the case I think you said, too tight at the chest. Have you sized up one?

    The Havanna is a no go for me if you plan to wear with tie, given the high buttoning point. I think jackets like that are fine for casual jackets (e.g. cotton/linen with a BD, light trousers, no tie, jacket unbuttoned). Buttoned, with a tie, it just emphasizes one's paunch. There's something more dramatic and visually pleasing to me about a deep v from the neck on jackets with the appropriate combination underneath (men or women...).

    My 2cents.
     
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  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    And now you have some informed reasons to back this up which is to say that you have learned things over the course of 500 pages (as have I).

    This is a fun thread. I'm glad it exists.

    And dammit Stitchy...I can't wait!
     
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  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/376461/tira-and-clags-discuss-civilly-ii-brands/0_20

    (I know Stitchy clarified, but hey. Look at this thread anyway)

    [​IMG]


    More on SS:

    Does Havana have a higher buttoning point than Napoli?
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2014
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  13. europrep

    europrep Senior member

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    @Coxsackie I would say no to both you posted. I do think the Washington cut looks good on you and you should keep it in mind for future purchases.
     
  14. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I was wearing a stile latino linen jacket yesterday and the lapels aren't skinny at all. You won't get super wide lapels i.e. > 4 inches wide, but at least 3.5 inches classic width.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2014
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  15. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I've only seen them on ebay, so it's an admittedly small sample. Glad to hear they're not too small!
     
  16. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Good-o, thanks everyone for talking sense.

    Yes, the cut looks good on me. BUT. Yes, it's already crumpled, straight off the rack like that. Yes, its combination of peak lapels and patch pockets is slightly weird.

    Two further deal-breakers:

    1. I need something extra to take to Russia with me. (In St Petersburg for the next week. Lucky me!) The suit would have been nice. RED FLAG - impulse purchase. Not only that, but my trusted Shanghai tailor just resigned under a cloud - accusations of skulduggery thick in the already-polluted Shanghai air. So I wouldn't be able to get the pents taken in and cuffed in time.

    2. Can a pale blue textured linen suit ever be part of a serious rotation? No. This would be a "fun" suit. Fuck that.

    Pass.
     
  17. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Spoken like a true WIS.
     
  18. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I've a Sartorio suit w/ 4" lapels. So there.
     
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  19. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    On a completely different note, anybody ever tried to shrink a shirt collar: I mean, the collar only? Just did a search and some site (eHow...) suggested placing the collar only in piping hot water in the sink w/ a little liquid detergent for 10 mins, then rinsing it in fresh piping hot water for a few minutes. Then, put on a hanger, blow dry on highest setting, and iron. Sound kooky? Think this could wreck a shirt (an expensive one)?
     
  20. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ i wouldnt bother, AJL. Buy a properly fitting shirt
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2014
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