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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Wrinkles in crotch have nothing to do with cut. He was probably sitting down or something before the picture was taken.

    I hate wrinkles, especially in wool, but it's inevitable that during the day at some point your clothing will wrinkle little bit. Some cloth releases wrinkles sooner than others, but when you spend a day in your clothing, it gets some wrinkles.
     


  2. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    I...does not get wrinkles in my suits~ [​IMG]
    They're as fresh as if I never wore them.
    Actually, I hang my pants on a hanger when I get into my office and I work with no pants on. [​IMG]
     


  3. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    Sorry man, I didn't intend to come across as being mean. The suit that the guy from BNTailors is wearing is a (too) exaggerated version of a cut that I think would work well on you. Not only the extended shoulders, but also the very open quarters. Though they may not be to everyone's taste, they do help to visually break up the hip area. In contrast, the Zegna suit you posted had closed quarters which only emphasise the width of the hip area. Conversely, if you'd go for a slightly higher lapel roll, the extra fabric up top may help to appear your chest a bit wider.
    From what I've seen from Formosa, their silhouette may indeed fit the bill. And they're lovely anyway!

    To me, slim fit doesn't necessarily mean good fit. I think a good fit should emphasise the positve aspects of the wearer's body, while visually correcting the not so positive ones.
     


  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    This! :slayer:

    :lol:
     


  5. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    Lol
    U crazy, Betel.
    :D
     


  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    I quite sure they will say so. :lol:

    About the suit that you will sell, the shoulders looked good, I respect what you said about the color but fit was very nice.
     


  7. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    I wished that more people told me about my fit issue. Clags was the only one. Thumbs up but no feedback made me think the suits fit fine.
     


  8. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Distinguished Member

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    I think the critiques have evolved from "does it fit and do the colors/patterns/textures work" to achieving an optimal aethestic.
     


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    We were all so focused on the combinations that we neglected the fit. As I said earlier, building a good wardrobe is a long process.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014


  10. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    I have the same issue - the big head makes the shoulders look smaller, so the shape is important to balance.

    This suit doesn't look great; Claggy's is much nicer in fit. Over-surpressing the waist makes the chest bow, and causes that pulling around the middle, and looks like it's someone else's suit. Slim fit isn't about being slim, it's a trendy thing like skinny lapels etc. With a more classic cut that fits you comfortably and is shaped to you, you will never lose. But what makes the shoulders on that guy look prominent is the marked roping - see how high up the sleeveheads are sitting. That's a really great way of making the shoulder look extended without it looking like you're wearing your dad's. I wish my tailor knew how to do it that well. There's no chance of finding a roped shoulder where I live, so sooner or later I guess I'll have to get the money for a proper tailor back in Europe. Or visit Korea, apparently. But you should look out for that as a feature.

    P.S. Claggy also has a big head, and uneven shoulders. But then again he's more handsome. Some we win, some we lose. Either way, he's got his local tailor working wonders.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014


  11. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    The cut is very versatile from what I have seen for example, Ethan Desu is a bigger guy and it looks great on him
    [​IMG]


    Something like Tchoy's
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    That is an excellent choice. I mean, look at this guy!!!

    [​IMG]

    The cuts (Formosa and Liverano-ish) actually look similar or is it my eyes?
     


  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I'd say the Formosa is a bit stiffer whereas Liverano/B&T seems a bit more relaxed. Different strokes for different folks, but both are world's better than the wrapped like a sausage shrunken lapel shite they sell at high end department stores.
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    people are also lazy and do not always comment on everything.


    interesting point, though that fit does not look quite as aggressive. a full pic would be nice.
     


  14. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    +1 on roped shoulders for making shoulders look more prominent in a good way. Example: X-post from my fit from today:

     


  15. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    I think I got pretty jealous at this guy when my wife asked me when seeing him in person, "Why can't you dress more like him?"
     


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