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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    The cut of that jacket doesn't work for you and the shoulders are too big. They day I listen to a SA at a department store is the day I start subscribing to GQ...a very sad one.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I thought you took a firm stance again slimmer than Formosa lapels? Decided that was too extreme a stance? :D Oh, Noodles

    On the shoulder's, I can't make a call without a better picture. It's shot from a low angle. In fact, I can't assess the fit of anything because the picture angle is so poor :D

    At the moment, though, they don't look too wide. I don't know where @Murlsquirl is coming from? A little bit of overhang is okay. I actually prefer slightly extended shoulders because I have a big head. So did this guy

     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
  3. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Yup. Thats a 40R.
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Bring a measuring tape next time and measure the width of the shoulders. :) That's how I always decide if I'm on the fence or can't gauge using a mirror
     
  5. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Slight extension can work with soft/natural shoulders, but not those. It looks like they are extended to the point where they dimple / crease. That's just what I got out of that picture.
     
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  6. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Gotta side with Murl on this one: shoulders look lumpy and overextended in a not good way, part. right shoulder.
     
  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Dunno if I agree with that tautology, Murl

    Cary Grant's shoulders were not soft in that pic. That NxNW suit was made by Kilgour, which I believe does a military or equestrian cut with a structured shoulder

    Edit: yep, they were padded

    http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=864
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    He also appears to be leaning to the side with the extension

    Point is, I'm not ready to make a definitive ruling until we get a better pic :)

     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Fair nuff...but it doesn't work with the jacket Rudals is wearing. I'm guessing it has to due with the construction of the chest, back, sleeve, etc. Key word being, "guessing".

    I agree with you....my judgement was premature and based on a crap picture.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Rudals posted a picture of the grey Zegna not too long ago that was taken at a low angle. It appeared "pear shaped" in that pic

    Then when he posted a normal pic, the apparent "pear shape" was no longer present

    @gdl203 not this, I think
     
  11. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Better(?) Pic with commentary.
    [​IMG]

    Side note: Asked wife to pick me out a nice tie at Neiman Marcus. She took a look. Then she said just order the one she picked out from Vanda. Lol
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
    3 people like this.
  12. Spandexter

    Spandexter Senior member

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    Noodles, you seem to have quite high expectations of a RTW. Sure, the shoulders aren't as good as they could be but the chest tightness and slight pull are barely evident and IMO the open quarters aren't an issue (but each to their own). Point being: 99% of people are not going to notice these things and it is highly likely your grail Formosa will also have issues, so go easy on yourself otherwise you are only ever going to be happy with bespoke.
     
  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I stand by my shoulder comment...the right is a little off. Overall, the fit is not bad at all.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
  14. Evolve

    Evolve Senior member

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    Agreed that the quarters aren't an issue. I like them as is on that jacket. Those shoulders, though, would be a deal killer for me, RTW or not.
     
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rudals,

    I don't think that's a divot. @Despos explains this somewhere in the Tailor's thread where this is just due to the fact that you have a large muscle/bulk in that area of the upper arm. I think that a tailor normally also measures the width of your body around your arms there to accommodate that extra bulk when the jacket is cut. This jacket just doesn't accommodate that part of your arm (and several of your other suits, the Zegnas, do not either). Hence, it bulges, but it's not creating a divot. Just a guess.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Rudals, if you feel the chest tight… I dunno, maybe try the 42? If that is the Milano or Roma cut, can quite remember which one is the slim fit, it is quite small. On those cuts I have to use a 46.
     
  17. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    46?!!!!!!
    Stop with the crazy work outs Betel. Lol. Yes, that is the Milano and no, that is not a slim one. That's Torino. Roma has been phased out long ago.

    Listen y'all. I was just trying it on. It was a size up of what I usually wear. All my Zegnas are 38R and none fit well so I tried on a 40R.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Good you tried it on Rudals, keep doing that. I also liked your own analysis. Sometimes a cut just doesn't work for you, no matter what size you try on.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
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  19. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    are you calling betel fat? :mad:

     
  20. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    :lol:
     
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