Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    That is your best fitting jacket, Rudals. Clean shoulder, nicely suppressed waist, collar looks good and so does the chest. The quarters are a bit more closed than I prefer, but still, it's nice. The pants looks like they could use some work from the knee up and maybe another .25" of length...at least that's what I'm getting from the picture.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,119
    Likes Received:
    2,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I agree, one of your better fits, I would say. These are the cleanest shoulders I have seen on you. Perhaps the chest is a touch big? Part of the problem, I think, is your pocket square is bulging out that side of the chest so there’s a bit of bowing in the lapel line (the other side looks like it is lying flat). It does seem a touch big though, that's the part of the jacket that seems the least clean.

    On pants. You need to drop those down. My strategy with uncuffed pants is to have them hit about half way down to the top of heel in the back with a slight break on the front. Wearing them so high is accentuating the shoes in an unflattering way, and it would look better to have the pants drop over the laces a bit more (the pants are at best skimming the top of the shoe)? Agree that the top might be cleaned up a bit, beautiful clean lines below the knee but some bagginess above.

    I think the color is fine: mid to dark gray? Button stance is good, sleeves good, lapels could be wider to my tastes.

    Pull that knot a bit tighter and push that PS down a bit.

    Why don’t you like?
     
  3. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Awesome @Murlsquirl and @TweedyProf.
    Thank you for the feedback.
    I will elaborate more later when I get home but the pants definitely are too big for me from knee and up. Also, I asked for no break but the length of the pants is too short. I will have it lowered.

    Jacket. The best fitting? I am a bit baffled. I thought my other jackets fit well, guess I was totally wrong. This jqcket feels too big on me and it feels like I have huge jacket and short pants. The worst fit ever. The jacket feels too baggy and so do the pants around my theighs. Bummer.

    I am sure Mr. FIELD will do just fine repairing these issues.
    Pants-make longer and taper around theighs.
    Jacket-i feel like they're too baggy.
    Am I wrong?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
  4. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,233
    Likes Received:
    2,237
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Rudals, you are used to very tightly fitting jackets and getting used to ones that fit better will take some time. I suspect this suit may have more of a drape cut which can feel a bit baggy in the chest if you are not used to it, but that is not necessarily a sign that it does not fit. If you do not like drape, that is your prerogative and there are other cuts for you to explore. In this case you could be conflating fit and cut when they are two very different things. It's also easy enough to get a suit nipped in the waist if that is an area you think is too baggy, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

    I agree with others that the trousers should probably be a bit longer, though they are not comically short and you could have done much worse there.
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,903
    Likes Received:
    19,229
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Noodles, the jacket appears to fit cleanly. You already know about the pants. I'd say keep this suit.
     
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,119
    Likes Received:
    2,552
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Mr. Fields will lead you on the right path. The chest isn't clean in a way. There's also some bulging on the right side (do you have something in the inside pocket)? But how it feels will be different from how it looks in a single static shot. So I won't dispute what you say...trusted tailor who can see it in person is the best bet.

    Is it a drape cut as AL suggests? I don't know, my eye isn't good enough to be sure, but since it's been brought up, I always thought that this series (as in much else of Jefferey Diduch's blog) is really illuminating. I'd happily wear that brown coat (though I've always been puzzled by the left versus right sleeve on Jefferey's jacket). Drape is easier to discern by an untrained eye in the back in his coat, but it's clear from the other pictures (with some excessive cases).

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/drape
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    What I think the pants will look like if tapered.
    [​IMG]

    How it looks now
    [​IMG]

    Jqcket...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    Regarding the drape...I don't know much but the fabric is thin and light so it just falls.
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    pants not too short, but a little longer would not be considered bad, its a personal preference thing at this point. it gets really hard/annoying to make micro adjustments to pant length tho.

    as to the top block, that is what i deal with with every pair of pants i have. if you have generous hips/thighs its almost impossible to get pants to look 100% clean from wait to hem. when i taper the top block the pants are often uncomfortable and when i dont they look bad.

    sooo, yeah, good luck. you will probably never be happy with any pants if you are anything like me.

    jacket fits great to my eye. agree with archi that you are just used to a tighter fit and you think this one id big when in reality it is better.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    8,984
    Likes Received:
    11,036
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    Rudals, I would like to see you go with a 40L next time. I think you would benefit from the extra length at the bottom...just my opinion. That said, it's a nice suit and when you get used to a fuller cut, I think you will learn to love it.
     
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    So, I had the tailor slim my earlier discussed trousers to a leg opening of 8.75", and I like the way it looks, except the asshat slimmed down the entire leg! I had mentioned three times that I wanted it tapered from the knee downwards, and even made them write it down on a note and attach it to trousers. I also specifically requested that they take in the trousers from both seams, but of course they only did it from one seam, causing the crease to be off-centre. They also charged me £45/$75 for this, which seems expensive for such a hack job. Does anyone know what the going rate is for tapering trousers?

    Sorry for the rant, but every single alterations tailor I've been to so far has done something wrong!

    The worst tailoring experience I've had, happened after letting the seat out, which was done so poorly that the stitching came undone during the middle of the day, causing the seat of the trousers to split. I had to stay seated at my desk until about 10PM, waiting for the office to be empty, before making a bee line to elevator, going down to the gym and changing into my gym shorts (and finally being able to go the bathroom!) before heading home. I can laugh about it now, but I wasn't so happy about it at the time, especially because I went to one of London's best alterations tailors that charged a hefty premium.

    So, my question is, am I the only one that has experiences like this? Do I just have Foo-like bad luck, or are good alterations tailors really that rare?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2014
  12. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,393
    Likes Received:
    4,875
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    Completely agree, Monkeyface; in three different towns/cities, I have found one reliable tailor and one reliable cobbler (out of perhaps seven in the former category and three in the latter) who has not yet done any of the following: misheard/ignored basic, specific instructions (cuff/no cuff; full break/whispering break/no break), sewn flimsy, unreliable, ugly stitches into areas of alteration (pant cuffs/jacket sleeves/jacket lining/shoe soles) that ruin the overall standard of the garment, or been completely off on the date when work was promised to be completed.

    Ironically, the only exception lives here in Minnesota, which in every other industry seems to live by the motto "We're incompetent, but you probably won't care."

    Sorry that's a bit ranty, but man, I'm with you on this one.
     
  13. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

    Messages:
    3,182
    Likes Received:
    17,143
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    New York, NY
    My guy in Manhattan charges about $30 for trouser tapering. My brother has a lady who does his out in Brooklyn for about $15/20. $75 is unheard of.
     
  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,961
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Doesn't a drape cut generally work best with some shoulder extension
     
  15. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,227
    Likes Received:
    478
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2013
    Location:
    Maryland
    Yikes. Sorry to hear about your misadventures in tailor land. I'm lucky that there are two full bespoke tailors relatively nearby that I utilize. Even given their qualifications, I began with less precious items that I wouldn't mind dumping if it turned out unsatisfactory. Tailoring seems to be a dying art these days.

    (I live in a major metropolitan area and travel 40-60 min to have alterations done. And $75 is pretty ridiculous for slimming a trouser leg)
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by