1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Too spread IMHO
     


  2. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    I love spread collars.

    @luv2breformed why don't you just increase the collar band height by say 0.25 inches on the NOBD2?
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    a) NOBD 2 is a winner for what you are looking for. Maybe a bit more height?

    b) Just ordered fabric for my next B&T. I've had two fittings so far for the fresco; I think I have the forward fitting next week and I should need to wait another week or so after that. First suit I had made had 3 basted and 2 forward fittings. This jacket looks to have 2 basted and 1 forward. Don't know about the next one. Hopefully just a single basted and a single forward. I want them to get my pattern down perfectly before I leave Seoul.

    Anyway, the fabric, 8oz houndstooth:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014


  4. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    I've got the NOBD2, but it's too short for my liking. Too much of your neck is exposed and the collar points barely reach under the jacket. Remember to increase collar point length if you're increasing collar band height.

    The Barba collar in the Luxire googledoc looks better, I'm giving that one a try next. Don't forget to specify whether you want lining/fusing, even if you reference order numbers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014


  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I like spread collars, but they look terrible unbuttoned IMHO
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
     


  7. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior Member

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    This sounds perfect. :p (I'm exaggerating, but I really don't want to do too much spread for how casual I dress)

    Would collar point to band height be a 1:1 ratio? I.E. if I increase collar height by .25" I should specify collar points lengthened by .25"? Also, would you do lightly lined and unfused for what I'm going for?
     


  8. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    We have to agree to disagree on that one. I even prefer unbuttoned spread collars to BD collars, which is a collar i hated in the past but warmed up to it recently. Most definitely due to SF influence.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I suspect Pythagoras may have something to say about that.

    But really, it depends on how happy you are with where your current points fall relative to your jacket lapels.
     


  10. SeaJen

    SeaJen Distinguished Member

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    Is that Spandexter's Barba collar or the #1738 collar?
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    for this more casual look, i think that is the perfect collar.
    vurr nice.
    do you mean that you think all spread collars should be BD?
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014


  12. SeaJen

    SeaJen Distinguished Member

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    Pythagoras didnt care because his beard always covered his collar. [​IMG]
     


  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    No I mean spread collars should be worn with a tie. A spread collar button-down sounds kind of weird and probably awful.
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    ah, i think i would agree with that until i see a picture that proves otherwise.
     


  15. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    Gdl and timo have some I think. I made two shirts like that last year and they look amazing to me.
     


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