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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Greg's post got me thinking, so my "ideal" measurements, averaged from a couple of jackets, are a shoulder of 18.25" and chest (pit-to-pit) of 21". How big should I make this range when shopping online? +-1", or more like +-0.5"?
     


  2. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    No expert here, and I also found Greg's post illuminating, but I think you need to be careful in distinguishing variances in shoulder vs chest measure. Bear in mind, the shoulder is a linear measurement, while the chest becomes doubled, so tolerances will be that much greater for chest. My own ideal (quotations implied) is similar: 18" shoulder, 42" chest. I can see how it would be possible to be +/- up to 1" on chest measure, but I'd think .5" would be max variable on shoulder, depending on construction. My best fitting jackets are about 18-18.25" shoulder, though I do have a blazer with a more padded shoulder that's closer to 18.5" and still fits pretty well. Not crazy about that shoulder, but that's another issue.
     


  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Thank you for the reply! .5" shoulder/1" chest variation sounds about right. I'm still a bit cautious with measurements though, especially because you don't know how the seller measures. For example, there's a beautiful suit on ebay with an 18.5" shoulder and a 20.5" chest, so the shoulder would be within .25" and the chest within .5" of my measurements. In theory it would probably fit, but it's still a risky buy. I might just stop buying online altogether from brands I'm not familiar with.
     


  4. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    Ebay's a potential double whammy as you point out: inconsistent measuring standards plus possible unfamiliarity with a particular maker. One of the great things about an outfit like NMWA is you can try out unfamiliar makes and return if it doesn't fit, at no cost to you. Of course that may not be the case across the pond.

    Ebay is pretty much a crap shoot: you may get a great deal on a great piece, or you may end up with something that is essentially useless to you and a hassle to attempt to resell. Same thing with B&S here; even though you're dealing with a more knowledgable, and presumably, more ethical group of sellers, it's still hit or miss.
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    At this point, I won't buy anything but ties and squares on eBay. Measurements too risky a game, especially living overseas.

    Random side note that won't appear in the interview but is nevertheless sort of interesting. The first incarnation of B&T went out of business in 1997 due to the IMF financial crisis. After that, the owner prayed and he says God told him to volunteer. He went to a couple of ministers and offered to make their suits at cost. Word got around, and he ended up making a ton of suits for a ton of ministers. He was then contacted by a baseball team to make suits for the entire team. That publicity was enough to get B&T back on its feet.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2014


  6. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    Amen! Praise the Lord!
     


  7. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Distinguished Member

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    @luv2breformed

    Good stuff, man. One thing to keep in mind: the weight routine you posted consists almost entirely of exercises for muscle groups that medially rotate your humerus. This can contribute to a host of shoulder joint problems if an imbalance is created and is one of the most common issues seen in weight lifters. Best to add more exercises for the musculature that laterally rotate the humerus and exercises that posteriorly tilt, retract, and depress the scapula. I would start by incorporating two lateral rotation exercises: one with the humerus abducted, one with it adducted; one arm dumbell protraction for the serratus; scapular wall slides, face pulls, and the Blackburn IYT series for scapular retraction and depression. And remember to stretch after lifting.
     


  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    oh lawd!
     


  9. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior Member

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    Thanks for the encouragement! Not gonna lie, I have no clue what you just said, but I am going to google the following 4 terms and start replacing some of my major lifts with them:

    "One arm dumbbell protraction"
    "Scapular wall slide"
    "Face pull exercise"
    "Blackburn iyt"

    Thanks again!

    I get it and certainly don't want to injure myself in the long term. I REALLY appreciate you looking out for me.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2014


  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Clever. :)

    I ate ridiculous amounts of food back then. I'd sometimes come home from school and eat a whole package of cookies with about a quart of milk. I grew another couple of inches in college and put on another 10-15 lbs, but I had that rabbit metabolism until about 27. I wish that I'd started running back then...
     


  11. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    For me it was 29, which, coincidentally, is the only age thus far that has freaked me out (I'm 92). I can remember, literally, one morning, lying in bed, looking down at my midsection and thinking "whoa, do I have abdominal cancer, a tumor, or what?" Not being a complete idiot it slowly dawned on me that father time + Ben & Jerry's was catching up with me. Life would never be the same.
     


  12. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Distinguished Member

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    In addition to! Not in place of!
     


  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    It sounds a bit complicated, but he is right. Lifting can definitely mess up your posture if you create muscle imbalances. I'm currently trying to correct forward shoulders from a too strong chest compared to my back. I'd recommend making sure you stretch your cheat at least once a day, and work out your upper back as much as your chest.
     


  14. sleeppopotamus

    sleeppopotamus Member

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    Hi everyone on this thread. Somebody mentioned this is a place to get good advice and the title appears to suggest the same. Apologies for the non-sequitor, but if anyone has thoughts about a suit I recently bought, I'm all ears.

    I posted on the Tailor's thread, and got a quite helpful reply about the vent flapping. There wasn't other nit-picking about the fit, so perhaps it isn't too egregious at least.

    I guess I was wondering more about style and where this might fall on the 'classic' vs. 'fashionable' scale. It's a linen/wool/silk suit I got off the rack from SuitSupply mostly because I thought it looked fairly good on me. But I'm not really able to tell if it is overly trendy in things like lapels, jacket length, button stance, etc. It is slim, but I am a pretty skinny guy so I'm okay with that.

    My goal was to get something somewhat informal that I could use for social occasions (summer weddings) and as a graduate student (conferences, teaching, as a separate jacket to look casually sharp around the department). Does it read this way? Are there things that I should keep in mind for future purchases? I was thinking of saving up to get a navy blazer, despite how charming the too-small-slash-I-probably-wore-this-in-middle-school-look is of the one I have now.

    Oh and any thoughts on what style of brown shoes would work with this and also be versatile for jeans/corduroys/etc.? Would a tan monk strap be reasonable?

    I've looked at a book and posts on here, but in terms of direct personal experience I'm really very new (erm... shoes, right) and welcome input.

    Many thanks,

    Sleeppopatamus

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    What model is that? The buttoning point is fabulously low.

    Definitely a good balance between modern and classic. The casaul fabric was a good choice for your lifestyle. I'm not sure how well it would work as an odd jacket, given its color and pockets.

    I'd go darker with the shoes; much easier to work with and more versatile. I think light shoes demand light colored ties. Dark shoes, you can wear dark and light ties. Monk straps are a good choice. So would something sleek and brogued.

    Edit: at least put on socks next time.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014


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