Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,169
    Likes Received:
    2,695
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    JR: this is a good perspective on EBay. I only find maybe 1-2 jackets a year that are nice quality, a good fit and a smoking deal.
     


  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,746
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Have you seen the new fresco Formosa? So incredibly nice, just what I'm looking for! Too bad the sizing is a bit odd. 18.1" shoulders for the 48, and 18.9" shoulders for the 50. I need about an 18.3-18.4" shoulder, so I'm right in between the sizing, but it's probably better for my wallet.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014


  3. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,625
    Likes Received:
    1,171
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Constructed. Typically a strong, well-padded shoulder and clean chest. This isn't good or bad, it's just different from the Formosa, which is classically soft Neapolitan tailoring.

    Granted, I've never owned RLPL and havent seen one in some time, so maybe they are different now.

    Jeffery Diduch did a teardown of one a couple of years back. It's well made, that's for sure. http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2012/02/ralph-lauren-purple-label.html
     


  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    love the link...still reading it. But it's painful to look at the pix of them taking apart a $5k jacket. LOL
     


  5. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,625
    Likes Received:
    1,171
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    He has torn down all sorts of very expensive jackets on there. It's very instructive. Typically people donate them--items that no longer fit, are damaged, whatever.

    Several years ago there was a thread here where a guy tore down a Kiton and found the insides to be almost entirely machine made. Caused a shit-storm of butt hurt.
     


  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    37,130
    Likes Received:
    18,076
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Another thing to free ourselves from: Microscopic Measurement Syndrome. There is absolutely no way that you could gauge if a jacket's shoulder would fit you based on a 1/8" or 1/4" variance from what you think is your optimal measurement. No way. Every suit is cut differently, especially the shape of the back, the shape of the shoulder line and angle of the armscye. Not to mention that I could measure the same suit's shoulders 5 times and get 6 different answers. And anyone would get different answers too, because there's no seam so follow from shoulder to shoulder...

    That suit may fit you horribly, who knows, but it wouldn't be because "the sizing is odd" or because of 18.1" shoulders vs 18.3" [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014


  7. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,854
    Likes Received:
    4,811
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    FWIW, I have found shoulder measurements to be the most variable measurement depending on the cut of the jacket. I wear between 18.5 to 19.5, a full inch and you can get away with smaller shoulders on softly constructed jackets.
     


  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    I might just look for that shitstorm of responses LOL
    I am assuming he doesn't put them back together...I guess there is no point.
    Regardless, thanks for that link. Very informative. [​IMG]
     


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,070
    Likes Received:
    31,234
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    

    in my SWD fits, i find that they are by majority low contrast. but almost every time i put together a low/medium contrast shirt/tie/jacket combo, i am displeased with it, and opt for something else. maybe i need to just do it and see where it lands. it may have to do with the fact that almost all my shirts and ties were purchased for more contrast, i may just not have the goods to be doing a proper low/medium contrast MC look.

    thanks for the prod tho, ill try it out in the upcoming months. :)



    not to mention the cut of the quarters. as you said, 2 totally different looks.


    ill bet!
     


  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    I can't just drop by your location and try on them suits, can I?
    I live in DC but will be visiting NYC pretty soon.
     


  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    37,130
    Likes Received:
    18,076
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Sure you can. Just email us to set a date/time.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014


  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    WILL DO [​IMG]
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    69,070
    Likes Received:
    31,234
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado Rocky Mountains
    
    huge plus one to all this. my shirts and jackets have quite a variance in lots of measurements due to the different cuts. you can get a good idea from measurements, but you have to try it on to know for sure. i have lots of stuff i never would have thought would fit me that fits better than stuff i thought would be perfect.
     


  14. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,252
    Likes Received:
    488
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2013
    Location:
    Maryland


  15. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Likes Received:
    1,602
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    

    Fit pics when you do!
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by