Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,553
    Likes Received:
    2,281
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    +1

    Best material might be a macclesfield silk or wool (cold weather). Nothing to snag on. Also, the silk on the maccs I own are very "springy" and get rid of wrinkles easily. In contrast, all the silk reppes I own are a bitch to get wrinkles out of
     
  2. B Rad

    B Rad Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2007
    Thanks guys - appreciate the direction.

    I'm planning a long-term overhaul and have already made a few purchases:

    My pre-SF browsing tie wardrobe consisted of plaid Burberry ties in grey, blue, tan and navy.

    I've recently purchased:

    Grenadines in silver (grossa from wang), black (grossa from wang), forest green (grossa from hober), bitter chocolate (fina from hober) and burgundy (fina from hober).

    Thai shot silk in silver and turquoise / salmon (both from hober, probably a little early in my journey to have purchased these).

    I'm just getting onto neats and have recently purchased the following:

    green floral (from NMWA):

    [​IMG]

    brown dot (from henry carter):

    [​IMG]

    brick neat (I'm colorblind but a friend told me it was reddish/brown? from hober):

    [​IMG]

    I tried to order the same brown dot in navy from henry carter, but unfortunately received an email that it was OOS - so I was (thinking) that I should be on the hunt for a navy dot, navy neat, burgundy neat, and brown neat as next purchases. Thoughts?
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,233
    Likes Received:
    2,237
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    ^ Hmmm, I consider a grenadine to be a pretty solid staple. Of course, I don't seem to have the same issues with grenadine ties that others do (one got a minor snag in it but I'd be surprised if something bad happened to a tie just because it was a grenadine more than 1 out of every 250 or so wearings).
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,962
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    B Rad is no fun. He already knows how to shop. I think we were spoiled by Noodles' inability.

    What do you generally wear these with?

    Seems like you are set with grenadines. You may look into 2-3 striped ties. Neats looks like you are on the right track, though I'd definitely take a brown neat (I have four) over a brown pindot. Pindots are a little higher up the formality scale, and brown is a low formality color.

    Noticing that you've got no wool up there and you're already familiar with Hober, these would probably augment your rotation nicely (though admittedly, might not get much wear until fall):

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  5. B Rad

    B Rad Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2007
    Haha, thank you - to be fair I've had the benefit of a lot of SF reading (and specifically learning from this thread).

    I plan to wear these with suits, which I have in navy, charcoal, a mid-grey / brownish, and blue pinstripe (is this what you were asking - or were you looking for combo specifics?). I was planning to purchase another suit or two (thinking a textured blue / navy and ???) over summer.

    I'm currently finishing up at b-school (most suit wearing events have past), so am fleshing out my wardrobe for my future job, which starts in October, where suits are worn daily.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,962
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    How CBD is your job? Though I guess starting out, you'll want to be conservative no matter what.

    I definitely pro-texture when it comes to suits and jackets. And if you own a few, you open up a whole bunch of options with regards to ties. I'd say textured navy and a conservatively patterned gray. Maybe a subtle PoW?
     
  7. B Rad

    B Rad Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2007
    It's a big European media company, so not sure just how CBD that makes it.

    I like your idea of the textured navy and patterned grey (what is PoW?). Any idea how light I should go on the grey as a pastey white dude who already owns a charcoal and mid-grey/brownish suits?

    Also, how about this herringbone for a fallish wool / silk brown tie from NMWA? (I'm not sure if it's appealing to my pre-SF style)

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,962
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Too light. In general, the lighter the tie the more difficult it is to wear. You want to easily be able to achieve contrast between shirt and tie, and with that tie you'll be limited to wearing it exclusively with plain white shirts. Hober has two excellent wool herringbones that might be of interest to you.

    [​IMG]

    Due to their roughness, you'll probably not want to wear it with a smooth, solid worsted suit. Perfect for flannels or anything else with texture or pattern.

    PoW= Prince of Wales. So something like this from NMWA:
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    And as far as blue textured:
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  9. B Rad

    B Rad Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2007
    Awesome. Thank you for the advice.

    Both of those suits are beautiful - and what I had in mind. When I get ready to purchase I'll post some options I've found, and will hold off on the wool-tie buying until after I make the textured / patterned suit purchases. Until then, I'll be on the lookout for a few more neat ties...
     
  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    This thread need more people like B Rad to come and get good help from Clags and others.
     
  11. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Guys, would it be possible to change a 2 button jacket with a high buttoning point into a 3-roll-2? I thought it might work by either closing the second button and adding a third below that, or by adding a button in between the two existing buttons and closing that one?
     
  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    Just to give you some perspective but I don't know if this scratches the surface of what you want.
    How high is that button stance of yours?
     
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Thanks! The bottom button is at my belly button, so it's a pretty high button stance. Here are two pictures, the red dots are possible extra buttons, either one in the middle or one below the bottom button. The lapels would have to be rerolled of course. I think the second option would be the easiest and would probably look the best, but neither is ideal. I usually wear this jacket unbuttoned because I can't stand the high buttoning point.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2014
  14. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

    Messages:
    728
    Likes Received:
    248
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York
    Rudals - for your first two pictures, is that just leaving the top button open or did you have it re-pressed as at 3/2?
     
  15. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    It became a natural looking 3-to-2 roll on its own. I believe it happened due to the nature of the fabric. It's a Zegna Trefeo fabric which tends to be light/delicate/soft. I did not press it.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by