Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I agree. Rudals, I think you would be pleasantly surprised at how good that suit would look after Fields put his touch on it.
     


  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    That's quite interesting. The 38R looks better to my eyes. The 40R just looks really baggy.
     


  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Just remember, it's easier to fix too big than too small. Of course if it doesn't fit in the shoulders, don't buy the thing.
     


  4. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    It fits better in the chest and shoulders...most important areas. You just have to see the potential it has if a good tailor gets their hands on it. I would take the 40 over the 38 and you've probably seen that I don't wear sacks for suits.
     


  5. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    you guys do realize that I had no intention of buying. I was only at the mall because wife wanted to buy her pretty little shoes with freaking flowers all over it. BUT, it good to post pix and get feedbacks. I certainly appreciate it all. I guess I will learn a thing or to while just having fun.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the linen tie from HC. I think the only way to wear that pattern effectively is with a double breasted, blue, brown or cotton linen/cotton. It's too strong on its own in a single breasted, bordering on garish (sorry Henry). But just peeking out from a DB, I think it might be quite nice.

    De sense... Want to test my theory? ;)
     


  7. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    sounds good jr. IMO the patch chest pocket isn't a great option. Two probs-

    1. They don't take a square well. Because it's a casual jacket you're going to go puffed silk, and most squares (Kent Wang's an exception because they're 13 by 13) ) won't sit in there without unsightly bulging.
    2. Square in, it looks like you have a flower pot pasted to your chest. That's a Foo observation, but once u see it u can't forget it.
     


  8. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Good Call! Thank you!

    I was at Nordstrom rack trying on Jackets 42 and 44's. I was having the shoulder issues that Rudals had. Is this due to the shoulders are too wide on the jackets or not wide enough? It was happening in both sizes. I couldn't go any smaller the 42's were cut very slim.
    [​IMG]
     


  9. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    If I understood jefferyd on this topic, shoulder width as being the issue is a common misconception. Rather this is often caused by tightness through the shoulder blades pulling at the sleeve fabric to cause the divots, i.e. Not enough fabric in the upper back.

    If pictures from behind don't identify this as the issue, then the problem is often related to sleeve shape or how the sleeve is attached to the sleeve head. Due to my forward shoulders, Despos recommended that I have the sleeves on my jackets recut and reattached at the sleeve head to pretty much eliminate the issue. Given the expense relative to the jacket price I just chose to let them go.

    If I understand this issue correctly from inquiring in the tailor thread the divot issue actually has little to do with shoulder width. YMMV.
     


  10. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    JR: what jackets were you trying on? My experience with the Rack in Chicago is that, apart from the occasional Canali or Samuelsohn, it is largely filled with Hickey Freeman's diffusion line and cheap fashion suits. I recall the fit on the HF diffusion line suits as being pretty wonky.
     


  11. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Calven Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss and Nordstrom brand. None of which I was crazy about just based on names but I wanted to give them a whirl. This was the Rack out in Orland Park btw.
     


  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Those are all crap. The only jackets I've ever bought from the Rack were Samuelsohn or John W. Nordstrom, Signature Collection (not regular JWN, which is crap, but a special line made by Southwick). Otherwise, you're much better off geting sportcoats off of EBay or going the MTM route you are trying.
     


  13. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    This @jungleroller .

    I don't remeber where I saw the image of that, it was very descriptive but it's simple, I will try to explain myself. The space where the sleeve goes forms an oval. The sleeve is cut the same way. So when you have large shoulder blades that oval - formed by the back part and chest area - turns into a circle. The sleeve expands to fit that circle and that forms those divots. That is what I remember.
     


  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    While wife shopped...
    RLBL, RLPL then all Zegnas. All 40 R
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014


  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Noodles, you are apparently not a 40R in those brands. All have bowed lapels on you. The 40R in the HF wasn't a great cut, but at least the lapels fell cleanly. Next time you're out shopping, look for that bowing, and if you see it, size up. Don't worry about what the label says.

    (And we knew you weren't intending to buy the jackets shown.)
     


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