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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quote:
    So I'll get 0520. Can you guys recommend a tobacco brownish for the same concept? Which one if so? Also a flannel F/W equivalent?

    Thanks!!
    From a PM, but I thought it could be used here. L2B is looking to pick up some fabric from Hardy Minnis. Alright, Thread, do your thang.
    https://shop.hfwltd.com/

    For your lightweight: Chelsea 102735
    [​IMG]

    I have the same in blue, waiting to be made up. Very lightweight (280g)


    For your F/W: Flannel 0341
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    What's the width of the widest point of that tie?
     
  3. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I really like that suit and the suggestions are pretty small ones. I think you'll get good wear out of that one and the next one will be nearly perfect for ya. Let us know if you do pull the trigger.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    3.75. It's the widest I'll go. I generally prefer 3.25-3.5, but the nice thing about having as many ties as I have is that you can afford to have a few a bit outside your preferred range. In the case of that tie, I'm definitely glad it's wide. It expands far satisfyingly after the knot. However, it's certainly not something I could wear with anything with smaller lapels (I have many lapels which are 3 inches). I originally bought it to be worn with my double breasted jacket.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I like the tie and wide ties in general.

    I love what I have seen on liverano with his 4.5 inch plus ties wider than his lapels

    [​IMG]





    The most important question is, where to Kop? Need a red tie with visual interest with enough personality to match 4q lapels

    PS: Wide ties isn't for everybody. I just have a preference for bold styling
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A little known company. Doubt you heard of it. Kind of picking up some press on the indie scene, though I hope they don't sell out. Brooks Brothers.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    i dont think i own any ties wider than than 3.5, maybe 3.6, but nothing 3.75.
     
  8. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I have a 4 inch cashmere tie that I wear with DB suits/jackets, but most are between 3.25 and 3.5. I prefer the 3.5 inch ties, but 3.25 is much easier to find at the moment.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  9. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    If I may, adding to the discussion

    1. No one has mentioned sleeve pitch yet, as you're getting bunching on the back arm (tricep).
    2. I think gorge height is fine. I like to draw a line from the point of the gorge so that it hits the tie knot. Why go higher?
    3. Don't mess with arm holes as that can be perilous. If it's comfortable, leave it. Is your movement restricted (lifting arms, etc.)?
    4. On the bunching, I thought you would want to shorten the back rise, as if you detach the waistband from the pants and then pull the back panel up. If you hike up the back of the pants, it might very well straighten out...you might get away with using suspenders then. Try it as a test.
    5. Waist is fine. You could drop another inch, but it's not suit supply/j crew high.
    6. Many things are quite good though for a first MTM. Shoulders look good, back is fairly clean. Quarters nice. I'm not sure what you mean by balance. Front/Back? That looks ok. Is it catching over your right hip in the back?
     
  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    - It's the uneven shoulders (Lower right shoulder) causing the bunching. If it's sleeve pitch you will notice pulling near the armpit from the front
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  11. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    Would that cause the bunching? It does look worse on the right from the back.

    He should check on the left side though as well as it might be bunching up on that side, so a combination. Anyway, if on the left too, probably a pitch issue I would think as well as anything else.
     
  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I'm now as confused as Noodles because I looked through some prior pictures and my left shoulder is lower than my right one in most of those pictures as compared with today's where my right shoulder is lower than my left one. [​IMG]
     
  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    To my eye, the front is slightly shorter than my back, but my tailor agrees with you. She also saw no balance issue.
     
  14. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    You know, the suit looks pretty good, and most of what you are considering seems to be refinements rather than big changes.

    I do agree about making sure the trousers have a nice sharp line in the back. Have you tried just pulling up on the back waist band a touch to see if the crease straightens out? Then I think it's probably a rise issue.

    Also, are you getting sleeve wrinkling on the left side (see Kulata's post above)?
     
  15. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I just threw in my towel. We can nitpick all we want but no one in real life is going to look at your suit and break it down nor will they even care to.

    BUT, they will see that your suit looks awesome and just move on.
     
    3 people like this.
  16. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    The issue resolves if I pull up the waist of the pants on the front side.

    Agreed.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    Well then, the simplest solution is to wear suspenders rather than belt, to hold your pants exactly in place where the issue resolves.

    I agree with Rudals: it looks good and nearly everyone will fail to notice any of these niggling issues.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    In light of this thread's love affair with brown neats, thought I'd post a close-up of today's tie from Hober:

    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  19. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Best thing is to get professional opinion from the "The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions" thread. And i agree, the suit looks good.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
    2 people like this.
  20. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Link please?
    I do not wish to do business with that other fellow who was very rude to me.
    That looks very nice.
     

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