Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    On suits, it's the difference between the chest size and pants size.

    But for a jacket, I use "drop" as a synonym for how slim the torso and waist of the jacket is cut. You seem to have a more athetic build. Don't try to shoehorn yourself into a slim jacket like the Cantarelli. It doesn't suit your frame, and there won't be enough material to let out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  2. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    You guys realize the jacket will be made to measure right? These are not off the rack. The template pics were just references for fabric. Nothing more.
     


  3. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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  4. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I've tried several corneliani items on several occasions, but I none if their trousers fit, and I'm not even that athletic. Anyone who has ever done squatz will not not fit their trousers. They're slimmer than suitsupply.

    Caruso makes very nice stuff, and doesn't fit as slim as the aforementioned brands. Unfortunately, it's quite pricey at retail.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Where did you get linked to this proper suit company from? Color me skeptical. These online tailors don't give me a lot of confidence. Proper suit, Indochino, Suit Supply. The brick and mortar stores tend to be manned by people who don't know about fit.

    Plus, if their house style is slim like that, best to avoid altogether. I don't have the confidence that they can pull off a fuller cut jacket. But it's your 600 to spend :D

    I'd rather get a great OTR jacket from a reliable Italian maker and take it to a good tailor. Zegna, Canali, Corneliani, Borrelli, Caruso etc. are all VERY consistant in quality. The jackets are usually well balanced. Cut can vary a lot, but if you know your measurements, you can account for that
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  7. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    A staple navy jacket in any of the aforementioned brands will run into the thousands except you have a way of making it happen and I'll be very interested. :)

    @jungleroller, have you considered edmorel? I have no clue what he charges, but the stuff he has made for in stitches seems outstanding and of course he is a very knowledgeable member here.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    It's called fleabay/B&S :D
     


  9. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Sorry, JRD, but this advice seems knee jerk in nature. I love my Corneliani jackets and can say without any equivocation that the MTM suit I got from this same factory (via Kent Wang MTM) is every bit as nice as my Corneliani's and E. Zegna's, except that it fits much better than my jackets from either maker. It was also only $750 at the time, so I would not "run away" if the jacket alone is $600.

    I don't see the harm in JR going at looking at the jackets. If the house patterns for MTM are all ultra slim/modern, then I agree walk away and try something else. Same goes if the base fabrics they are quoting at $600 look like shit and the nicer priced fabrics are way over priced. I suspect, however, that JR is going to get a MTM jacket every bit as nice as a Corneliani for somewhere in the $600- $900 range.
     


  10. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I've run into them before on the net but didn't pay much mind until New Shoes mentioned to try them because they have a local location and I can do an in store meeting and measuring and viewing of fabrics. The two owners are I believe the owners of Hall & Madden Shirts.

    If I were so inclined where would I go to get an OTR option for those makers?
     


  11. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    He's the Panta guy right? I have yes but if I'm not mistaken he's in NY. Test fits would involve back and forth shipping and rely on me knowing whats wrong or where to adjust the jacket. Or very heavily on pictures so he would dial it in. That's the whole reason I'm doing this is because they're local. I'm open to any local suggestions though. He did amazing work with Sticheys DB but I have a feeling his quality is something down the road for me.
     


  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I believe Suit Supply is pretty legit based on the fact that a lot of SF members either recommending or donning them. I, personally, was very displeased with the DC store.
    Jungleroller can do whatever he wants but I think we're just looking out for his best interest.
    But I think he should give this or SS a try because MTM at any other place will be quite expensive.
    I am lucky enough to throw on a RTW Zegna and be fine(subjective opinion), but I think Jungleroller's build requires MTM.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  13. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    btw JRD I appreciate any insight here I'm not throwing anyones opinion or advice out the door. Just weighing my options.
     


  14. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Here's @pocketsquareguy 's review of Proper Suit. http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/post/56694083116/proper-suit-jacket-review-by-gus As I said, I have no experience with the company, but thought the posts advising to run away were a little extreme and knee-jerk in nature.

    On finding a NWT staple blazer or suit from Corneliani/Canali/E. Zegna for the same price on EBay or B&S, I drank that Kool-Aid when I first joined Style Forum and checked EBay and B&S daily for more than a year before I realized I would never find a solid staple suit from any of those three makers that was NWT, in my size and under $1,000. Stripes and other patterns, yes. Seasonal jackets and suits, yes as well. Solid staples, no, not happening. I do love EBay and B&S for sport coats from those same makers, but that's a different story.
     


  15. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Why does it require MTM? Could it be that he's buying jackets that are too slim to begin with?

    Also, I just don't think the sales associate at a place like Suit Supply is going to be good at fitting a jacket. In all likelihood, he's going to be some guy they basically hired off the street. Certainly no training in the bespoke craft

    Department store/retail store associates don't understand a lot about fit.

    Even I don't understand a lot about fit. Best to find a good tailor you can trust.

    From Manton's book

     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


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