Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sleeves and shoulder look good there. I wonder if it may also atem from wearing a true 3 as a 3 roll 2
     


  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I think I just have my arm out more in the wrong shoulder pic.
     


  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's the same jacket when you were thinner? Looks fine there, though again, I advocate for less cuff and so you should have the sleeves lengthened. I prefer 0.25-0.5 inch and I'm guessing that's an inch or so. And loosen that top button!

    It could be a divot in the new pics. My understanding is that a divot is caused by the arm hole not being wide enough to accommodate the body there which distorts the hole and leads to the distortion. So, I suppose extra weight could do it. It could also just be the way the fabric drapes, which isn't a divot but still something less than desirable.

    Please report back from Fields what the explanation is. Engineering of garments is not something I understand as well as I would like, and I'm sure almost everyone in this thread would learn from it. Damn, do a video of him explaining it, and post it!
     


  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not sure that will do it, but this is the source of what I know and it is worth reading (including many other things in that thread)

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror#post_2686570

    I suspect if you went to your jacket shoulder now and pushed on it gently from front to back, distorting the hole, you'd see a divot start to form? Just a guess, prediction based on what JeffryD says there.
     


  5. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Rudals, I have this problem on all of my jackets to one degree or another. I have been researching on this and with some help from the tailors (OTCtailor, jefferyd, Despos), I have learned that this problem is often caused by tightness over your shoulder blades pulling at the armhole. I bet if you tried to relax your shoulder blades a bit, you would see an improvement.

    Armhole shape and sleeve-head relative to armhole can also be issues. Despos told me that the fix for me was to have the sleeve-head re-cut and attached on nearly all of my jackets, some more than others. =\

    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    HC, that's great. I've admired your ties from "afar". 8cm is often reported as 3.25 inches in stores here, but it is actually slight less (as you know), and with cutting allowances can drift to 3 inches in blade width which is for me too narrow. 8.5 is for me minimum as it's just between 3.25 and 3.5 inches in width and that's the sweet spot for my build. 9 cm is great too, though the upper bound (3.54 inches)
     


  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    It could be the result of many things. But it did not exist when I was at Field, hence, Will not pointing this out.
    I've gained a lot of weight.
    I've gained a good amount of muscles around the shoulders and the arms (tri/bicep).
    ...and I am fat.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014


  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Which I suppose is the telling thing. As I said earlier, it might just be a function of how you are standing when taking the shot, and is smooth as you move around or stand in a certain way. I think a true divot will not have those properties.

    So, I think the subject can be dropped. You understand the issues now.

    I'm just psyched Henry Carter is widening some of his ties a touch!
     


  9. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Drop the SHOULDER DIVOT SUBJECT.

    I usually play around with 3.5" width, give or take 1/4" or so.
     


  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Um, make sure the 0.25 inchs is always taken less than more.
     


  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks umbel.

    I can see the difference, and am just wondering whether it matters (I'm not a tailor either). I'd like to understand the issue more. You raised it because of balance, but are the two really correlated? Manton had an old thread discussing this somewhere, and I was surprised that it isn't, indeed not primarily, a back front length issue (i.e. that they should always be equidistant from the ground). Manton's point, I think, was that issues of balance are really about the right amount of fabric being cut to deal with a shape (e.g. if one slouches forward or has protruding blades). So, a sign of imbalance is often the quarters, say their being very open or very closed when coat is buttoned. The quarters on Mr. Six's coat looked ok to me.

    I'll try to find that link.
     


  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    TROOLOLOLOLOL!

    [​IMG]
     




  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    This looks like it could be the cover to the album for a Christian rock band...

     


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