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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like the base color, but I am not a fan of that particular shade of green. I also think that large scale neats are a little more difficult to wear than their small scale brethren. There are probably better options out there.

    On a different note, those Aztec cotton squares NMWA is carrying are gorgeous.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  3. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I'm still trying to figure out ties. I jump on pretty colors very easily and need to restrain myself. I too like the base color but something about it says old man to me and I was trying to figure out if that was a good thing or not. I picked up a Cappelli from Gentlemens footwear recently and might nab a couple more but I don't know if I'm sold on unlined ties yet.

    Got this. soft lined. I know it may be a bit bright but I like it.

    [​IMG]

    I really like these design wise but they're not lined. So I'm still contemplating.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Would wear all three, jungle.
     
  5. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Jungle: that green tie looks great!

    Rudals: I agree with Sugarbutch. When I went to SuitSupply in the Havana I thought a 44 would do the trick but it doesn't I have to use a 46 to feel comfortable with the shoulders. In the Soho the 42 looked great in the body but the shoulders were to tight, 44 works best. But for example in the Sienna fit not even the 58 look good. The shoulders are cut in someway that they form dimples along the shoulder line.
     
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Buying anything based on tag size alone is a recipe for disaster. Get to know your measurements and buy clothing based on them. Have Will at Fields measure you...even if you have to pay, it would be worth it.

    If you're buying in-store, it's all about knowing what to look for. That will come with time and by educating yourself on this forum.

    Don't worry man, I made all the same mistakes and still do sometimes. I've only been out of the military for four years and I had a lot to learn about menswear. I lurked on this forum for three years and just educated myself before joining.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    @archibaldleach
    Where should I start. The visit to SS was more of to see what everyone was talking about. I had no intention on buying and after seeing their linen collection, which I despise, and quality of their wools, I probably won't get anything from them. The pix were just to show that I can have an opinion on SS. The suits I chose were just anything that was 40R.

    Now, I have to wear a suit for work. But I can wear whatever style I want. That's why I am looking at jqckets with FU peak lapels. I think I usually have to wear CBD, which I enjoy, but I plan on mixing it up with some crazy suits as well.
     
  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @Rudals, fair enough re: SuitSupply. With respect to branching out from CBD, this is how I look at it:

    - Start by making sure you have enough suits that are reasonably conservative. Navy / grey 2B notch lapel or something similar.
    - Once you have your basics met, start by picking a feature that is a bit less conservative. Could be peak lapels, could be RAF blue or a lighter grey instead of a more conservative color, or some sort of pattern (e.g. I liked the suit you wore to your wedding). I also like double breasted as a variation. Don't pick more than one feature to experiment with at a time.
    - Once you have tried some different looks and variations from the navy / grey 2B notch lapel suit, you can vary more than one thing at a time.

    TLDR, make sure you know how one feature that varies from a conservative look works for you by itself before combining it with others. You're more likely to like and use the end result.
     
  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    @archibaldleach
    I believe I have met all or most of CBD requirements so I am ready to move on. Peak lapel with an interesting color is next step for me.

    Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.
     
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wow, JR, you've stepped up the shoe game (AEs to Carminas) and now stepping up the tie game too. Just got to get a few Bresciani's and you're golden [​IMG].

    I'm not sure myself about unlined ties. They do give a structure to the tie that I think can aid in the drape and in the recovery (as well as affect the knot). I think the Vanda's that are unlined are usually six-fold to aid in the drape.
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's why you have such good posture in those pics.
     
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Rudals
    It isn't the angle of the camera I'm afraid. Angle can distort a lot of things, but the shape of a shoulder isn't one of them. And this is from dead on.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It's possible that it's the way you are holding you arms in the picture. Next time you wear your jackets, go to the bathroom, let your arms hang perfectly naturally, and see if your shoulder looks like the one on the left or Pingon's on the right. If I recall, Pingson's jacket isn't bespoke either.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  14. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I agree. I won't make an unlined tie for all of those reasons above. Even the one "un-lined" Vanda I've seen in person had a light lining at the knot area. You can still make a very light tie by using light lining such as linen and not tipping it.
     
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    HC, I did notice some 8.5 cm ties in your F/W inventory which is nice because I still find 8cm a touch too narrow (given allowances). The scarves are lovely too, though it's spring apparently here in the states.
     

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