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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    SS is very tight fit, so you probably need a 42 in that case
     


  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    No question Kent has a great eye for fit issues and made some suggestions that I never would have thought of. I did find, though, that I had to veto some suggestions as they were going towards a more slim, modern fit than I was looking for. While we can direct Noodles on the issues, I wonder if he knows precisely what he wants as a finished result.
     


  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    both nice. top would be good with a SC and tie, bottom looks too saturated for that, id wear it as a casual shirt only, no tie, and probably no SC.


    this.


    yes!!!


    no.


    do not agree. i hate wrinkles personally, but i see nothing wrong with clags wrinkly blue suits. i actually quite like them.
     


  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I do not understand why Zegna decided to make such an unconventional suit but here it is. My [email protected] child suit. The lapels, as pointed out many times in the forum, is too narrow for a peak lapel. My innovative brain says let's nip it and make it into a notch lapel jacket and turn it into a conventional suit. Any thoughts on this?
    [​IMG]
     


  5. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    ^
    Don't do it, the lapel hole will be in the wrong position and angle. I don't think a tailor can make that lapel hole change...
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd be interested in the results actually. Especially if you aren't wearing it anyway
     


  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Exactly why there is no linen in my closets....hate wrinkles.
     


  8. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Definitely have to figure out what you want before you venture into MTM. I know what I need/want, but I still listened to Aaron's recommendations. I have high hopes...we shall see.
     


  9. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I think you will be pleased. I'm going back for a second suit and the only significant alteration I am considering is lowering the button point.
     


  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I will present this suit this week when I pick up my new suit.

    Credit: JRD
     


  11. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I think too much credence is given to the city vs country thing. If a thing works it works, conversely its usually fairly evident when it doesn't. I think people get too constrained by "the rules" sometimes. Personally I like the linen wool blend, as well as your straight linen suit. Casually elegant with a dash of insouciance: "Yeah, I'm a little wrinkled, deal with it". As far as the limitations of what a blue suit must be I don't buy it.

    I think your spread collars work great for you, and your explanation for why you prefer it over other options makes perfect sense. As for the "appropriateness" of a BD collar, it is a subjective, aesthetic choice, and as such, is not a one size fits all proposition. I'm still not sure where I stand personally regarding BD collars, but I think by their very name they imply a certain degree of constraint and conservatism, hence the expression "buttoned down". Granted there are BD collars with a graceful, elegant roll, just as there as Republicans with...oops, wrong thread.

    Finally I think your reasoning for why you choose to wear these types of fabrics makes perfect sense, and subsequently suit you well. Perhaps there is a bit of sub-concious envy being (un)expressed by some of our more CBD dressers that you are able to let your freak flag fly ;)
     


  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Again I'm not a tailor, but see how the dart isn't perpendicular to the ground? That's an indication to me that the front isn't falling straight as it should. Here's a dart falling straight:

    [​IMG]
     


  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Rudals, I am a bit confused. You talk a lot about being in a place where you have to wear a suit for work and wanting to be conservative in your dress. None of those suits are even remotely close to conservative. The last two in particular do not seem to fit well to me. The closest thing to conservative would be the blue suit, but it is a much lighter blue than navy and also has peak lapels. A nice RAF blue with notch lapels in linen could be lovely. Linen suits can be awesome, but they are also going to wrinkle like all hell. If you don't mind this and think the right linen suit will fly in your office, go for it. Just get one with notch lapels. I won't quibble with the patch pockets, though they are also not exactly CBD.

    If you want to move away from CBD and think that you can get away with a wider range of suits in your office, then definitely don't be afraid to branch out. Just do so gradually. Try a nice RAF blue notch lapel suit instead of navy or try a slightly lighter grey than you are used to. A grey POW check is also a classic pattern that, while a bit more casual, is commonly seen and accepted most places. What you seem to be doing now (with the possible exception of the blue suit above which is not right for other reasons) is swinging towards the opposite end of the spectrum. Take the move away from staples slower. You'll make fewer mistakes and waste less money that way.

    Also, if you do get around to getting a bespoke suit from Field or anywhere else, please, for the love of God, get something that is conservative and will be a staple in your closet for years to come. Do not get seduced by some fancy cloth that will result in a garment you'll seldom wear.
     


  14. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Butlers pants are insane in such a good way.
     


  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Noodles: *sigh* Ignore the size on the tag and actually look at what you're seeing in the mirror. No matter what size those jackets were marked, they are too small for you. As for the specific jackets, the solid's buttoning point is too high, and the windowpane shows that SS hasn't gotten a handle on pattern matching.

    jrd: A spread *can* be formal, but Clags' shirts don't come off as formal in context. Also, an air force blue suit isn't formal either. Navy? Sure. There's also the issue of pleasing oneself. e.g., no matter how appropriate a button-down collar might be, you will likely never see me in one because I don't care for them. And gray jackets are great. Don't believe the hype. :)
     


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