Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    I don't like the look of that linen blend fabric, Clags. To me, a blue suit is a formal suit. Should be crisp and free of wrinkles. I'd prefer a blue fresco wool suiting to a blue wool-linen blend suiting fabric I dunno, a wrinkled blue linen suit seems like a mutt to me. I'd only consider linen for a tan or brown suit, which is more casual.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,845
    Likes Received:
    4,808
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    
    Saw it on my Tumblr feed and was thinking the Texan sartorialist in SKorea should be on top of thingz
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009


  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,138
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Too formal for me. I want my suits to send two clear messages if I'm wearing them when I don't need to wear them.

    a) I don't need to be wearing a suit
    b) I'm not trying to look like a need to be wearing a suit

    Thus I favor very clearly casual suits. And yet I don't want that to preclude wearing staple solid colors. So. Wool-linen.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Are you required to wear a suit for work? If I'm following correctly, you're saying that you try to offset the "square" image that a suit creates by having wrinkly fabric?
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,138
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    I've not been required to wear suits to work for some years and two jobs ago. And I've nothing against the square image.

    It doesn't necessarily need to be wrinkly fabric. Just not very city. So countrified windowpane or tweed is right up my alley.
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Also, some of the collars you wear don't mesh with that casual vibe you're going for.

    I see a fair amount of wide spread collars in your wardrobe. To me, those are very formal and not great for wear with sportcoats or casual suits.

    Narrower spread and button down collars would be more appropriate IMO
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,115
    Likes Received:
    2,650
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011

    I've got one Kent Wang MTM and will likely do another soon. I'm very happy with the finished result, but I also did not need extensive alterations from the sample model. I'm hesitant to recommend it to Noodles, though, because the internet/e-mail/pictures aspect of it requires knowledge of your general fit issues as part of the discussion with KW where you get his recommendations as well as a firm idea of what you want as a finished product. Then there is the fact of how picky Noodles is regarding details, which leads me to think he needs to work with an actual tailor through the MTM process.
     


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,138
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.

    But they are great for my giant head. And I like clean lines, though not necessarily clean surfaces. I do agree that an oversized BD would be more appropriate for my look. Just not my taste.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    I've a large, round face too, and find that mid spread fits my proportions better than wide spread. Wide spreads are better for long, narrow faces.

    Also, this guy had a huge head and never wore wide spreads

    https://www.google.com/search?q=car...i=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=799#imgdii=_
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,138
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    Smaller than mine. But I wore a less spread collar today. Generally like them less. 80% of my shirts have a spread collar with a raised collar band.

    [​IMG]

    Edit: looking at it with my head cropped, I still like the wider spread more. Spent a bit thinking about why. I think I like the way in which the wider collar leads into the line of my shoulder. As I said, I like clean lines.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    ^ That collar seems like it fits your frame better. Also seems more appropriate for a sportcoat fit. To me, wide spread = city suit fit

    Proportions would look even better without an enormous knot
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014


  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,726
    Likes Received:
    2,329
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009


  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

    Messages:
    2,587
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Location:
    Washington, DC & Seoul, South Korea
    They were all 40R.
    My shirt was too thick. Sd orry guys. 0
     


  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

    Messages:
    9,050
    Likes Received:
    11,318
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    I figure between the help he would get in this thread and the advice from Aaron and/or Kent, it can be successful
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by