Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    So, I got that grey Cantarelli sport coat from jungleroller. Looks like it needs to be nipped at the waist, sleeves shorted a little, and maybe the collar tightened a bit ... or it's just a bit too big and I should move on. I'd appreciate opinions. (Also, pant hems need to be raised.)

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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I think shape looks pretty nice overall. The front balance looks a little bit short - not sure if your tailor can fix that, although it helps that it's a solid (basically) so you don't have to worry about pattern-matching. Personally I wouldn't touch the waist.
     
  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My two cents. The sleeves could be taken up a touch but you could also leave them. Definitely needs a bit of suppression at the waist (looks a bit roomy from the side, for sure). Shoulders are pretty clean as is the back top from the side (no bunching below the collar). I think the length is within the right range. Is it clean from the back?

    The main issue is: is it a touch big in the chest (do the lapels sit flat on your chest)? If you have it tailored, have them suppress from the armhole down rather than just at the waist. But I think this is within the acceptable range for starting, to my eye. If you have a good tailor, I would take it in to be sure and also, you could try the tailor's thread.

    Those Cantarelli's from NMWA are nice.
     
  4. timotune

    timotune Senior member

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  5. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yea, gray wouldn't be my first choice, but assuming Mr. Six has other SCs of brown and blue shades, why not? Grays can look quite nice with cream/off white/white trousers even navy! though I suspect this is not a summer gray jacket.

    I agree with Umbel that the look at the front is acceptable at the waist. One could suppress a bit more to see a peak of light between waist and warm. It's more the side angle where the front of the jacket seems to jut out a bit more than I would like. I think the roominess that I feel I see on side profile at the waist can be taken care of as well as the excess fabric below the arm hole in the back if one works from the arm hole down (I had this done by a competent tailor on one of my thrifts and it came out great).

    It's the chest I would wonder about.

    On length: I think it's in acceptable range. The top, bottom balance looks ok to me (I would prefer maybe 0.5 inches longer). Cover his hands and look at the top versus bottom. If it covers the seat, I think it's fine. Of course, reasonable people can reasonably disagree. [​IMG]
     
  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Online.

    I do not like either of those to wear with a tie.

    put your picture direct .jpg or .gif link in between these characters. no spacing [​IMG]

     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not a tailor, but I think this is due to a short front (look at the direction of the darts) rather than the waist being too big.
     
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On grey SCs please see butlers post in WAYWRN for what I had in mind for pant combo.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  10. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I do not understand that you do not understand this :)
     
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's interesting...can you explain the issue with direction of the darts?
     
  12. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I think the sc looks pretty good out of the box. A few nips by a tailor possibly but nothing unsalvageable. As far as grey sc's go, why not? Looks good Mr six!
     
  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Okay. Went back to SS with my wife. 100% wool was hard to find but 100% linen was abundant. Here's a half arse attempt at some suits.
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  14. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    Thanks for all the feedback. To address some of the comments ...

    Front balance: Good point. I looked at a number of other photos of the Cantarellis in the NMWA, and it seems like it's partly a matter of how they're cut, since that shows up for others as well. But I'll talk to my tailor about it.

    Chest: I'm not one of the forum's great body builders, but I do work out regularly and have a fairly developed chest plus somewhat prominent scapula, so coats that fit well otherwise sometimes pull a bit across the chest. In this case, I think there's a bit of room, but the lapels do seem to lie flat and the drape looks good to my eye. A couple additional photos.

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    Length: Looks completely normal to me, so I was surprised to see that comment.

    Grey sport coat: I've read the back and forth about this topic. Since I have blue and brown sport coats, this seemed like a good opportunity to add something grey to go with green and brown and grey trousers. I think that with a blue shirt, it would provide a nice palette for several ties.





    Roominess in the side view: That was one of the things that I noticed as well and thought that waist suppression would take care of it. But I'm interested to hear about the darts, as well.
     
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    6, the jacket looks pretty good. You can't just "tighten the collar"...it isn't that simple. Collar gap can be caused by a number of things and often very expensive to fix...if you have a good tailor. That being said, I wouldn't say you have collar gap, just doesn't hug the neck too snug.

    Rudals, 0 for 3 dude...just my opinion.
     

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