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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. timotune

    timotune Senior member

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    Looks like the Lazio. Fit is very good for RTW, but the jacket looks too short. Is this a L-size already?

    Brown Suede Loafers, Double Monks or Captoe-Oxfords will work.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    The jacket is short but not too short, I think the shortness is exacerbated by his longer than normal reach (wingspan).
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
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  3. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    wait. so if offer to make some fancy minister people some free suits, then in time i will become a #menswear legend?
     
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Some Henry Carter ties incoming! Wll in a few weeks until one is restocked. [​IMG]
     
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  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stitchy, can you cut and sew? I think those abilities might be required.
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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  7. sleeppopotamus

    sleeppopotamus Member

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    Thanks so much to you, Claghorn, and kulata for all of your comments. I really, really appreciate your guys' thoughts on shoe options and had no idea about a shoe <-> tie color connection.

    I'm also frankly impressed you are able to identify the name of the jacket just by looking. Yes, I think it is the Lazio, and it is a 38L (my arms are pretty lanky).

    On length, in the future something 1" or 2" longer would also be appropriate? I know you want to cover your behind and that something too short looks like a woman's jacket. And you're also maybe trying to figure out the aesthetic balance between having a long leg line and a long torso line?

    I was just looking at pictures to try and train my eye to assimilate a sense of this. So I had thought this looked very good, but the jackets, for example, might be a bit too short, unless you're following a more fashionable look. Maybe?
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Aye. Those look like women's jackets too me. At this point, if the jacket barely covers your ass, you'll not look out of date while at the same time not looking so trendy that you'll look out of date in the next year or two. So given the current trend, you best bet is to get as short as possible without stepping into girl jacket territory.

    It is possible for a too short jacket to look good provided you have the right body. The right body being a flat ass and narrow hips. Otherwise, it will not flatter your body type
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2014
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  9. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Quote:Well, I suppose it's stating the bleeding obvious, but... Seems to me the entire blame for this lamentable current trend towards pre-shrunk jackets and visible ankle hair can be laid entirely at the brogue-shod feet of Thom Browne. [​IMG] I thought this look was kinda "cute" when he first launched it around '06. Never for a moment did I think such an inherently ridiculous fashion concept could go mainstream. But it has. Avoid, Mr Elephantiasis. Avoid with extreme prejudice.
     
  11. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Yes. I would add that it helps if you have shorter arms.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  12. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    What does everyone think of the NOBD 2 collar?

    Specifically I'm looking for a collar that is moderate spread and would be appropriate as a substitute for the many BD collars I have been procuring (ie very casual). Something that looks at home with casual fabrics.

    Also, I really like taller collars and sometimes I feel that collars with too much spread make the collar height seem shorter. This is something I'd like to avoid.

    NOBD 2:

    [​IMG]

    Any other recommendations? Thanks!
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That one's too short IMHO.
     
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  14. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I think I prefer the NOBD1 as a good substitute to BD collars especially if its minimally lined and tall (1.75 inches collar band height, YMMV). Another option you should consider is a one piece collar like the corneliani one I am wearing below. I just sent it off to luxire for replication

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    I tend to agree on it being too short. Any taller recommendations?

    I feel like the NOBD1 has too much spread for me. I really like the idea of a one piece collar, but I tend to think I would get that as a BD as well. I'm not sure if it would be different enough from my Kamakura's, though I certainly want some in the future.
     
  16. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Too spread IMHO
     
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  17. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    I love spread collars.

    @luv2breformed why don't you just increase the collar band height by say 0.25 inches on the NOBD2?
     
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  18. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    a) NOBD 2 is a winner for what you are looking for. Maybe a bit more height?

    b) Just ordered fabric for my next B&T. I've had two fittings so far for the fresco; I think I have the forward fitting next week and I should need to wait another week or so after that. First suit I had made had 3 basted and 2 forward fittings. This jacket looks to have 2 basted and 1 forward. Don't know about the next one. Hopefully just a single basted and a single forward. I want them to get my pattern down perfectly before I leave Seoul.

    Anyway, the fabric, 8oz houndstooth:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014
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  19. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    I've got the NOBD2, but it's too short for my liking. Too much of your neck is exposed and the collar points barely reach under the jacket. Remember to increase collar point length if you're increasing collar band height.

    The Barba collar in the Luxire googledoc looks better, I'm giving that one a try next. Don't forget to specify whether you want lining/fusing, even if you reference order numbers.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014
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  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like spread collars, but they look terrible unbuttoned IMHO
     
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