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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Calven Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss and Nordstrom brand. None of which I was crazy about just based on names but I wanted to give them a whirl. This was the Rack out in Orland Park btw.
     
  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Those are all crap. The only jackets I've ever bought from the Rack were Samuelsohn or John W. Nordstrom, Signature Collection (not regular JWN, which is crap, but a special line made by Southwick). Otherwise, you're much better off geting sportcoats off of EBay or going the MTM route you are trying.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    This @jungleroller .

    I don't remeber where I saw the image of that, it was very descriptive but it's simple, I will try to explain myself. The space where the sleeve goes forms an oval. The sleeve is cut the same way. So when you have large shoulder blades that oval - formed by the back part and chest area - turns into a circle. The sleeve expands to fit that circle and that forms those divots. That is what I remember.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    While wife shopped...
    RLBL, RLPL then all Zegnas. All 40 R
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Noodles, you are apparently not a 40R in those brands. All have bowed lapels on you. The 40R in the HF wasn't a great cut, but at least the lapels fell cleanly. Next time you're out shopping, look for that bowing, and if you see it, size up. Don't worry about what the label says.

    (And we knew you weren't intending to buy the jackets shown.)
     
    2 people like this.
  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    +1 on SB's comments Noodles. Shoulders look rite, but the chest is too small on all of those.
     
  7. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Never considered lapel bowing. Jesus I need a checklist...
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Noodles, you and JR need to start thinking in terms of measurements, NOT in terms of tagged size. I think I've briefed you on this before! Why are you regressing your knowledge all of a sudden?


    -Shoulders need to go to your natural shoulder end, or a little bit past it if that's your preference (huge head, etc)

    -Chest p2p doubled should a few inches bigger than your actual chest circumference. For me and my posture, it's 2 inches. Noodles, whatever that Zegna mila I sold you was -- measure it, that's your gold standard

    -Waist shouldn't buckle on the jacket when you first put it on. It can actually be a little bit big, just have a tailor take it in

    -Length should hit around your knuckles when you're handing are at a natural position​


    Those are the basics of fit.

    Oh, and also don't get anything with too high/low of a button stance. A lot of the Suit Supplys have way high button stances
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
    4 people like this.
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
    3 people like this.
  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I feel like I just got style spanked by JRD.

    Do the shoulder curve and not divot?
    Is there bowing of lapels?
    Is the length right and cover your seat?
    Is the top button by the navel?
    Are the lapels wide enough?
    Is there enough room when buttoned up?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    :nodding:
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  12. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    It seems difficult and restricting but man is a well fitting jacket a wonder to behold. Combos are fun too, but this is the really good stuff.
     
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Knowing that Rudals is a 40-42, perhaps he was taller than I remember.
     
  14. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Is it possible to link to a pic directly on your mobile or computer hd here? Like for the avatar?
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  15. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I have a confession to make.

    I am...struggling with obesity. I am 10 FREAKING pounds over my normal weight of 170lbs. All my suits in the closet are 38R and they DID fit me at one point. I have told my wife to stop feeding me but bless her heart she won't stop. I habe also gained some upper body muscles in the chest, shoulders, and arms. This is causing more fit issues.

    Please make a non-tax deductible donation to the NOODLES FOUNDATION to help Noodles have a chance against obesity.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  16. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I just go into desktop mode.
     
  17. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dudals, you've been "battling" weight ever since you've arrived on SF. I don't think I've ever seen a jacket fit from you that wouldn't have benefited from being let out a bit or sizing up (and then being let in). It isn't even necessarily about your weight. It's also the size of your ribcage. You aren't a 42...that may just be the marital feeding....but you would have long sense been better served with a 40 and getting a tailor to nip the waist.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Yes. 40R.
    And my fight against obesity has been a long fight. I am very displeased with my lack of progress.
     

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