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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wow, JR, you've stepped up the shoe game (AEs to Carminas) and now stepping up the tie game too. Just got to get a few Bresciani's and you're golden [​IMG].

    I'm not sure myself about unlined ties. They do give a structure to the tie that I think can aid in the drape and in the recovery (as well as affect the knot). I think the Vanda's that are unlined are usually six-fold to aid in the drape.
     
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's why you have such good posture in those pics.
     
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @Rudals
    It isn't the angle of the camera I'm afraid. Angle can distort a lot of things, but the shape of a shoulder isn't one of them. And this is from dead on.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It's possible that it's the way you are holding you arms in the picture. Next time you wear your jackets, go to the bathroom, let your arms hang perfectly naturally, and see if your shoulder looks like the one on the left or Pingon's on the right. If I recall, Pingson's jacket isn't bespoke either.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
    2 people like this.
  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I agree. I won't make an unlined tie for all of those reasons above. Even the one "un-lined" Vanda I've seen in person had a light lining at the knot area. You can still make a very light tie by using light lining such as linen and not tipping it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    HC, I did notice some 8.5 cm ties in your F/W inventory which is nice because I still find 8cm a touch too narrow (given allowances). The scarves are lovely too, though it's spring apparently here in the states.
     
  6. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    BEAUTIFUL look and very nice ties
     
    2 people like this.
  7. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thanks, yeah all of this seasons ties are 8.5cm. I'll probably do some 9cm in the near future as well.
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I'm truly beginning to believe Gianni is a troll.

     
  9. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Rudals read about shoulder divots on the forum. It requires extensive surgery to get them fixed but unfortunately almost all your jackets suffer from them.


    Lol@Gianni's sense of humor
     
    2 people like this.
  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Noodles those lapels look fine. Sure they're not as wide as traditional peaks but they're fine.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
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  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    :brick:
     
  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    If you start selling some 9 cm ties, you've got a new customer. I've liked your ties in the past, but 8 cm is too narrow for me.
     
  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I guess we are at a level where we are looking at the details and fine tuning them. That is, my fit. Now I finally understand what Clag is talking about. I can see it. Let me look back at all the pix of that jacket and if it does exist, will ask The tailor what he can do. If not, this is another that I will be looking out for when buying new suits. Thank you pointing this out, Clags. Here's a fit from my weekend. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
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  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Side tracking for one minute.
    Finally had to tell my wife to stop feeding me. I am 13 lbs or almost 6kg off my normal weight. We eat the same dang things but she has a flat stomach while I have a big fat belly and none of my clothes fit me. LML.

    My new goals.
    Get the C&J oxfords.
    Get a bunch of spread collar shirts cus I love them now.
    Get a bespoke suit (sharkskin grey) with peak lapel from Field Tailoring.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Or, you know, don't fucking eat everything you see while walking down the street.
     
    3 people like this.
  16. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Noodles, the jacket that Clags pointed out looks too small in the shoulders/chest for you, which is what I suspect is causing the problem with the shoulder. I say this based on how the lapel is pulling away from the shirt collar creating a gap, the slight curve to the lapel and the overall tightness of the jacket's fit. As counter-intuitive as it may seem, my experience has been that my jackets which are a smidge too small in the shoulders/chest have had similar shoulder issues.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Cappelli does this lined if u prefer it that way. makes a better knot IMO
     
  18. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I DO NOT think it is the jacket.
    I just got fat. This one slopes very nicely
    I am not posting another fit until I lose 15 lbs this week.
    LML

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  19. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I presume that's the same suit, Rudals?

    If so, I'm guessing it's the way you are posing in the picture. Seems like your arms are out to the side a bit more in the first pick.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Yes, it is the same suit.
    I think it is a combination of my stance/posture and my weight gain.
    I'll try to relax a bit next time I wear this jacket.
     

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