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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I'd be interested in the results actually. Especially if you aren't wearing it anyway
     
  2. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    Exactly why there is no linen in my closets....hate wrinkles.
     
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    Definitely have to figure out what you want before you venture into MTM. I know what I need/want, but I still listened to Aaron's recommendations. I have high hopes...we shall see.
     
  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    I think you will be pleased. I'm going back for a second suit and the only significant alteration I am considering is lowering the button point.
     
  5. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    I will present this suit this week when I pick up my new suit.

    Credit: JRD
     
  6. AJL

    AJL Well-Known Member

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    I think too much credence is given to the city vs country thing. If a thing works it works, conversely its usually fairly evident when it doesn't. I think people get too constrained by "the rules" sometimes. Personally I like the linen wool blend, as well as your straight linen suit. Casually elegant with a dash of insouciance: "Yeah, I'm a little wrinkled, deal with it". As far as the limitations of what a blue suit must be I don't buy it.

    I think your spread collars work great for you, and your explanation for why you prefer it over other options makes perfect sense. As for the "appropriateness" of a BD collar, it is a subjective, aesthetic choice, and as such, is not a one size fits all proposition. I'm still not sure where I stand personally regarding BD collars, but I think by their very name they imply a certain degree of constraint and conservatism, hence the expression "buttoned down". Granted there are BD collars with a graceful, elegant roll, just as there as Republicans with...oops, wrong thread.

    Finally I think your reasoning for why you choose to wear these types of fabrics makes perfect sense, and subsequently suit you well. Perhaps there is a bit of sub-concious envy being (un)expressed by some of our more CBD dressers that you are able to let your freak flag fly ;)
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Again I'm not a tailor, but see how the dart isn't perpendicular to the ground? That's an indication to me that the front isn't falling straight as it should. Here's a dart falling straight:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Rudals, I am a bit confused. You talk a lot about being in a place where you have to wear a suit for work and wanting to be conservative in your dress. None of those suits are even remotely close to conservative. The last two in particular do not seem to fit well to me. The closest thing to conservative would be the blue suit, but it is a much lighter blue than navy and also has peak lapels. A nice RAF blue with notch lapels in linen could be lovely. Linen suits can be awesome, but they are also going to wrinkle like all hell. If you don't mind this and think the right linen suit will fly in your office, go for it. Just get one with notch lapels. I won't quibble with the patch pockets, though they are also not exactly CBD.

    If you want to move away from CBD and think that you can get away with a wider range of suits in your office, then definitely don't be afraid to branch out. Just do so gradually. Try a nice RAF blue notch lapel suit instead of navy or try a slightly lighter grey than you are used to. A grey POW check is also a classic pattern that, while a bit more casual, is commonly seen and accepted most places. What you seem to be doing now (with the possible exception of the blue suit above which is not right for other reasons) is swinging towards the opposite end of the spectrum. Take the move away from staples slower. You'll make fewer mistakes and waste less money that way.

    Also, if you do get around to getting a bespoke suit from Field or anywhere else, please, for the love of God, get something that is conservative and will be a staple in your closet for years to come. Do not get seduced by some fancy cloth that will result in a garment you'll seldom wear.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. jungleroller

    jungleroller Well-Known Member

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    Butlers pants are insane in such a good way.
     
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Noodles: *sigh* Ignore the size on the tag and actually look at what you're seeing in the mirror. No matter what size those jackets were marked, they are too small for you. As for the specific jackets, the solid's buttoning point is too high, and the windowpane shows that SS hasn't gotten a handle on pattern matching.

    jrd: A spread *can* be formal, but Clags' shirts don't come off as formal in context. Also, an air force blue suit isn't formal either. Navy? Sure. There's also the issue of pleasing oneself. e.g., no matter how appropriate a button-down collar might be, you will likely never see me in one because I don't care for them. And gray jackets are great. Don't believe the hype. :)
     
  11. jungleroller

    jungleroller Well-Known Member

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  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I like the base color, but I am not a fan of that particular shade of green. I also think that large scale neats are a little more difficult to wear than their small scale brethren. There are probably better options out there.

    On a different note, those Aztec cotton squares NMWA is carrying are gorgeous.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  13. jungleroller

    jungleroller Well-Known Member

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    I'm still trying to figure out ties. I jump on pretty colors very easily and need to restrain myself. I too like the base color but something about it says old man to me and I was trying to figure out if that was a good thing or not. I picked up a Cappelli from Gentlemens footwear recently and might nab a couple more but I don't know if I'm sold on unlined ties yet.

    Got this. soft lined. I know it may be a bit bright but I like it.

    [​IMG]

    I really like these design wise but they're not lined. So I'm still contemplating.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Would wear all three, jungle.
     
  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Jungle: that green tie looks great!

    Rudals: I agree with Sugarbutch. When I went to SuitSupply in the Havana I thought a 44 would do the trick but it doesn't I have to use a 46 to feel comfortable with the shoulders. In the Soho the 42 looked great in the body but the shoulders were to tight, 44 works best. But for example in the Sienna fit not even the 58 look good. The shoulders are cut in someway that they form dimples along the shoulder line.
     
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  16. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

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    Buying anything based on tag size alone is a recipe for disaster. Get to know your measurements and buy clothing based on them. Have Will at Fields measure you...even if you have to pay, it would be worth it.

    If you're buying in-store, it's all about knowing what to look for. That will come with time and by educating yourself on this forum.

    Don't worry man, I made all the same mistakes and still do sometimes. I've only been out of the military for four years and I had a lot to learn about menswear. I lurked on this forum for three years and just educated myself before joining.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    @archibaldleach
    Where should I start. The visit to SS was more of to see what everyone was talking about. I had no intention on buying and after seeing their linen collection, which I despise, and quality of their wools, I probably won't get anything from them. The pix were just to show that I can have an opinion on SS. The suits I chose were just anything that was 40R.

    Now, I have to wear a suit for work. But I can wear whatever style I want. That's why I am looking at jqckets with FU peak lapels. I think I usually have to wear CBD, which I enjoy, but I plan on mixing it up with some crazy suits as well.
     
  18. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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  19. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    @Rudals, fair enough re: SuitSupply. With respect to branching out from CBD, this is how I look at it:

    - Start by making sure you have enough suits that are reasonably conservative. Navy / grey 2B notch lapel or something similar.
    - Once you have your basics met, start by picking a feature that is a bit less conservative. Could be peak lapels, could be RAF blue or a lighter grey instead of a more conservative color, or some sort of pattern (e.g. I liked the suit you wore to your wedding). I also like double breasted as a variation. Don't pick more than one feature to experiment with at a time.
    - Once you have tried some different looks and variations from the navy / grey 2B notch lapel suit, you can vary more than one thing at a time.

    TLDR, make sure you know how one feature that varies from a conservative look works for you by itself before combining it with others. You're more likely to like and use the end result.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. Rudals

    Rudals Well-Known Member

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    @archibaldleach
    I believe I have met all or most of CBD requirements so I am ready to move on. Peak lapel with an interesting color is next step for me.

    Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.
     

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