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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I don't like the look of that linen blend fabric, Clags. To me, a blue suit is a formal suit. Should be crisp and free of wrinkles. I'd prefer a blue fresco wool suiting to a blue wool-linen blend suiting fabric I dunno, a wrinkled blue linen suit seems like a mutt to me. I'd only consider linen for a tan or brown suit, which is more casual.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Saw it on my Tumblr feed and was thinking the Texan sartorialist in SKorea should be on top of thingz
     
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  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Here's Vox's AFB fresco

     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Too formal for me. I want my suits to send two clear messages if I'm wearing them when I don't need to wear them.

    a) I don't need to be wearing a suit
    b) I'm not trying to look like a need to be wearing a suit

    Thus I favor very clearly casual suits. And yet I don't want that to preclude wearing staple solid colors. So. Wool-linen.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
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  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Are you required to wear a suit for work? If I'm following correctly, you're saying that you try to offset the "square" image that a suit creates by having wrinkly fabric?
     
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've not been required to wear suits to work for some years and two jobs ago. And I've nothing against the square image.

    It doesn't necessarily need to be wrinkly fabric. Just not very city. So countrified windowpane or tweed is right up my alley.
     
  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Also, some of the collars you wear don't mesh with that casual vibe you're going for.

    I see a fair amount of wide spread collars in your wardrobe. To me, those are very formal and not great for wear with sportcoats or casual suits.

    Narrower spread and button down collars would be more appropriate IMO
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I've got one Kent Wang MTM and will likely do another soon. I'm very happy with the finished result, but I also did not need extensive alterations from the sample model. I'm hesitant to recommend it to Noodles, though, because the internet/e-mail/pictures aspect of it requires knowledge of your general fit issues as part of the discussion with KW where you get his recommendations as well as a firm idea of what you want as a finished product. Then there is the fact of how picky Noodles is regarding details, which leads me to think he needs to work with an actual tailor through the MTM process.
     
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But they are great for my giant head. And I like clean lines, though not necessarily clean surfaces. I do agree that an oversized BD would be more appropriate for my look. Just not my taste.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
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  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I've a large, round face too, and find that mid spread fits my proportions better than wide spread. Wide spreads are better for long, narrow faces.

    Also, this guy had a huge head and never wore wide spreads

    https://www.google.com/search?q=car...i=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=799#imgdii=_
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Smaller than mine. But I wore a less spread collar today. Generally like them less. 80% of my shirts have a spread collar with a raised collar band.

    [​IMG]

    Edit: looking at it with my head cropped, I still like the wider spread more. Spent a bit thinking about why. I think I like the way in which the wider collar leads into the line of my shoulder. As I said, I like clean lines.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ That collar seems like it fits your frame better. Also seems more appropriate for a sportcoat fit. To me, wide spread = city suit fit

    Proportions would look even better without an enormous knot
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I think this is a silk-linen blend

     
  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    They were all 40R.
    My shirt was too thick. Sd orry guys. 0
     
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I figure between the help he would get in this thread and the advice from Aaron and/or Kent, it can be successful
     
  16. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    SS is very tight fit, so you probably need a 42 in that case
     
  17. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    No question Kent has a great eye for fit issues and made some suggestions that I never would have thought of. I did find, though, that I had to veto some suggestions as they were going towards a more slim, modern fit than I was looking for. While we can direct Noodles on the issues, I wonder if he knows precisely what he wants as a finished result.
     
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    both nice. top would be good with a SC and tie, bottom looks too saturated for that, id wear it as a casual shirt only, no tie, and probably no SC.


    this.


    yes!!!


    no.


    do not agree. i hate wrinkles personally, but i see nothing wrong with clags wrinkly blue suits. i actually quite like them.
     
  19. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I do not understand why Zegna decided to make such an unconventional suit but here it is. My b@stard child suit. The lapels, as pointed out many times in the forum, is too narrow for a peak lapel. My innovative brain says let's nip it and make it into a notch lapel jacket and turn it into a conventional suit. Any thoughts on this?
    [​IMG]
     
  20. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    ^
    Don't do it, the lapel hole will be in the wrong position and angle. I don't think a tailor can make that lapel hole change...
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014

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