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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Navy looks good, maybe your tailor can advise on the right shoulder simple.

    Brown jacket seems quite short...
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    @luv2breformed

    I see shoulder overhang on both jackets. I think they're too wide. Are they heavily padded? Can't tell from the pics.

    The vents on the blue jacket are slightly open, indicating a poor fit. A tailor might be able to let it out slightly. The herringbone jacket isn't going to work out. Extreme vent opening there. It's open wider than a hooker's ass.

    I have the same problem with single vents and have learned to stay away from them.

    Also, the herringbone jacket is too short. I vote to resell it / return it. You can keep the navy.

    Hope you'll pardon my prying here, but I think you also might have some lordosis? It comes from sitting too much/ not sleeping in the right position.It can be corrected in a matter of weeks if you do things like sit less and stretch your hip flexors. That might help the single vents fit better

    http://stronglifts.com/lordosis-why-it-causes-lower-back-pain-how-to-fix-it/

    This is a bad habit of mine and I try to keep it in check with the stretches.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2014


  3. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    This is why I love you guys. Looking back on it I'm not as fond of it as foo (though I don't think anybody ever was), but I disagree about the odd vest, at least in this case. The waistcoat reminds me of what would be worn with morning dress, and adds a little bit of punch that signifies it as a special occasion. Would definitely have gone with a different tie and shirt combo though. I think that a matching waistcoat in this case would be too business like and not quite so festive.

    For our betrothed here, a thing I worry about is him looking like a CPA - even a well dressed CPA - in his wedding photos. He's a CPA, but looking back upon your wedding photos you want to see a little panache. There will be plenty of people wearing suits I expect, and as the groom it is - at least in the western world - traditional to have a thing or two that distinguish you as the groom. In this case I think the vest is unobtrusive enough to get away with highlighting him. I do not think our intrepid young affianced would go amiss if his attire were to include a well selected waist coat.
     


  4. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    <3 u 2 tits.

    Btw, I dont dislike the fit, I just dont get hard for it like foo did.
     


  5. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Thanks, guys. Shoulder width I think is pretty close to right. I'm pretty sure I have a sloping shoulder that screws up my fit especially on my right shoulder.

    I don't know anything about lordosis, but I will look into it. All my weight goes to my hips and butt, and I am very bell shaped. It's a problem I have with nearly all if my jackets. Thanks again.
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mrs.C and I are going to have a small ceremony in the US when we return. I'm wearing a linen suit because fuck yeah, linen. Don't know what shade of blue it'll be. But I'll be wearing a white shirt and probably a shepherd's check tie (I figure it would go better with linen than PoW)
     


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Since we're on formal ties (e.g. Shepherd Check)....relatedly, anyone pull off gingham ties, larger scale checks? I've seen some navy ones which look nice but I haven't managed to find a fit where they look great. Imagining pairing it in spring/summer with a linen blazer, say a lighter blue, with a navy gingham linen tie, with very light blue nearly white BD (all different blues). Thoughts?
     


  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    l2br, those jackets don't fit you. Both have the dreaded divot on the right sleeve. Both have the vent pulled open. You need side-vented jackets. Full stop. Don't buy anything with a center vent.

    re the odd-vest wedding fit, do not want.

    Noodles, I prefer houndstooth wedding ties to POW.
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  10. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Every jacket I wear has right shoulder divot. All of them. Can this be solved outside of bespoke/mtm? I agree that these two both look worse than some. You guys know my build and measurements. Are there any particular brands of jackets I should be looking out for? SS seems too slim through the hips for my build though I have admittedly not tried. PRL are always too wide shoulders. I feel like I'm spinning my wheels sometimes . . .
     


  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Post the pic and question in the Tailor Fit Thread, it looked like your right shoulder drops a bit. They are the experts though...

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/0_20
     


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Also, at @luv2breformed, remember that improving your wardrobe is a process. It may take trying on a lot more brands and fits of jackets to find the right fit (or resorting to MTM at some point). As much as you may want to have an ideal wardrobe ASAP, it will take time no matter what your financial resources are. If you are not finding stuff that is a real improvement in RTW, the solution is to look at a lot more RTW options or to slowly look at something like MTM or bespoke. If you go the MTM / bespoke route, however. please start with basic versatile staples despite the temptation you may have to get something made with some sort of exotic cloth.
     


  13. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Refined style and very stylish ... I like the colors you chose.
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Who made this suit? What is the material?
     


  15. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Zegna Milano. Trefeo Wool.
     


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