Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,138
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    One big difference is that this thread focuses on not only what items to purchase, but also where to purchase them. I suppose less emphasis is placed on how to wear them. A focus on building potential rather than execute it.

    It is also a wonderful way to experience the thrill of shopping without the expense of purchase or wardrobe redundancy (I've only purchased two brown ties since this thread started!)
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014


  2. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Likes Received:
    1,350
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    Beautiful detail and great color combinations.
     


  3. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

    Messages:
    1,933
    Likes Received:
    703
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2013
    Location:
    505
    

    Perfectly put. And by that it really has and fills its own niche.
     


  4. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,947
    Likes Received:
    4,265
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Thanks, TweedyProf, sugarbutch, mktitsworth. Much appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  5. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

    Messages:
    902
    Likes Received:
    1,642
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2013
    Congrats on 200 pages, Clag.

    I ordered a trial shirt from Luxire and sent them my Kamakura with Tweedy Prof's notes. Thanks, everyone.

    I sent back the Benci and kopped a vintage Austin Reed to replace it. I will post fit pics when it arrives.

    [​IMG]

    Are these black wholecuts a good kop for me? I know Cleav mentioned wholecuts in his top 5. Anyone have any clue about the last?

    Lodger BELGRAVE BLACK WHOLECUT

    [​IMG]
     


  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,746
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    

    Good choice, I was going to do the same with my Kamakura shirt. Would you min sharing some pics of the collar when you receive it? Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2014


  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,050
    Likes Received:
    21,138
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    How formal are those?
    Very.
    Why?
    The color, the last, and most of all, they're whole cuts.
    Do you dress accordingly?
    Not unless you are wearing a lot more city suits than we've seen.

    Out of curiosity, why do you want them?
     


  8. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,170
    Likes Received:
    2,715
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Did you figure out that the blousing was due to the tight hip or too much material at the waist? I'm guessing the former.

    What did you end up tweaking (and it should be tweaking since the shirt wasn't a bad initial fit)?

    Am interested to see the final result, especially if they can copy the collar. I've been wondering if the key is the unfused collar, allowing more freedom in the roll...
     


  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,170
    Likes Received:
    2,715
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    @luv2breformed

    Oh, if you do have the waist taken in, you might consider having the material removed from the back rather than the front. The danger is if the adjust on both panels, you might end up with something too tight on the front (assuming the back was the problem). Just saying take in the waist 0.5 inches isn't specific enough, and if the blousing was due to excess material in the back, that's where you want the material reduced.

    You should be able to email them on this, if needed.
     


  10. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2014


    I'll be interested to see how this turns out. The prices on Luxire seem extraordinarily good ($60 for a standard blue oxford MTM?) so I'm wondering - what's the catch? Is it only the upfront cost of trial shirts to zero in on the exact measurements? I've been chasing a good OTR fit but that seems kind of pointless if I can get one of comparable quality MTM for less.
     


  11. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

    Messages:
    902
    Likes Received:
    1,642
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2013
    Quote:
    I will post a thorough review when I get it back. I asked them to copy the collar exactly, but did not specify fused vs lined etc. I figured they would know what to do to copy it.


    I thought that they could serve a similar purpose as black captoes. I've never had any wholecuts so wasn't sure. It sounds like they're far too formal for me. I wanted them because I am lacking in bals and I remember they were in Cleav's top 5. I was scrolling through Spoo's offerings and it looked like they were still available in my size and was curious.

    I mentioned minor adjustments to them and asked them for more waist suppression, and a little more through the hips. I suspect it really is a combination of both. I also had them add 1 inch as suggested. I sent pictures as well and told them to make any adjustments or alterations as they saw fit.

    I will send this additional information to them. I agree that the material needs to be removed from the back as the front looks very clen to me. Thanks again!
     


  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,170
    Likes Received:
    2,715
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    @luv2breformed

    I think you need to be very specific on instructions with any MTM. Tell them unfused collar with lining (if I remember correctly, interviews with the head of Kamakura suggest that this was important in their achieving the roll...I'm sure they tested all sorts of variations).

    I say this because I'd like your copy of the collar to be perfect! Kamakura prices are really very reasonable for such excellent shirts, but the shirt has to fit. If it does, I would encourage people to go through them to support their enterprise.

    Unfortunately, the Kamakrua shoulders are just a tad too narrow for me and the arm hole is a bit high which leads to some excess fabric/wrinkling at the chest (or that is my supposition) and a bit of tightness. I'd also prefer undarted backs (though that's not a deal breaker).
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2014


  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

    Messages:
    902
    Likes Received:
    1,642
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2013
    I am only planning on ordering from Luxire for fabrics that Kamakura does not have in my size. I have already ordered 2 more ocbd's from kamakura. I will e-mail luxire with the additional information that the collar be unfused and lightly lined. I will also specify that .5 in be removed from the waist in the back and that the hips be increased by .5 in in addition to the 1 in additional length.
     


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,170
    Likes Received:
    2,715
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Great. Seems reasonable minor tweaks. Hope it works! Post pics when you receive them.
     


  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,170
    Likes Received:
    2,715
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I don't own stock in Kamakura, but at 79 per shirt for good fabrics in standard patterns, with an awesome roll, it's worth going with them. The difference in price isn't great, and you can guarantee yourself their excellent roll. Two shirts, and shipping is free from Japan. Just make sure it fits though, which is the crucial issue. Kamakura sizing is really hard to understand. That said, for summer fabrics of more interesting patterns, Kamakura's stock isn't wide enough, so MTM is an option then.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by