Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know first hand that Rudals throws down.

    As far as the stripes:
    Two of them are navy base. You have enough navy ties for your gray suits, and since you prefer navy suits, you'll want to steer away from navy ties.

    The blue in the other striped tie is light enough, but I'm not keen on stripes the same width. This might be because I struggle with them (and because they suffer a bit from "neither this nor that")
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014


  2. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    I'm going to disagree a little with the Clagster here:

    Capelli stripes: firstly, I'm not sure that stripes are a priority for you at all with your style restrictions/preferences. The strong associations with private schools, sports clubs and military regiments are nto a problem unless yours has a meaning recognised by some gnarly old banker and not by you! But more generally, and especially as you will be wearing them with a solid navy or grey suit, they do smack of uniform. Not that you shouldn't ever wear a stripey tie, but with your requirements, I think it might be low on the list. And secondly, the first tie you picked is I think quite presentable.

    ET: Clag is right about the shantung, but I think both grenadines are fine, and there's nothing wrong with purple as a conservative tie choice. It's lovely with a grey suit. I'll come back to grenadines, though.

    Vanda: I don't have any Vanda ties (I should add "yet" as they look great and I love their ethos), but I think your first two here are a bit too soft and casual. The last one is OK, but there are better.

    So, to actual recommendations:

    If we're taking navy ties as read, then the colours I mentioned above are the priorities I think. And the consensus advice on neat small patterns as your default, is bang on. I'd go as far as to say that neats are all you need, actually in preference to solids at all, for the simple reason that you're so restricted in your choice of suit and shirt. There is very little texture or pattern in your professional wardrobe, and a good outfit needs some. All smooth and solid (and this is something I've improved on myself after seeing good examples on the forum over the last year or so), is dull and lifeless. As you're stuck with solid white or blue shirts, solid grey or blue suits, and a simple white square at most, the tie is all you have left.

    Sure, a heavy grenadine has texture that works a bit like a pattern. But a neat is a good place to be. If you do want a solid or two, I'd skip past the fine grenadines though. The transparency makes them a little light and whimsical for CBD I think. A better choice of textured solid might be a heavy wool or cashmere herringbone: neat and smooth, not at all rustic, but with a weight and subtle pattern that had some character. There are some interesting linen ties around that can pull off a similar trick in the summer. Not that you couldn't get away with a grenadine, I just think there are better options for you right now - SF compliance aside.

    Neat madders or similar are really versatile. The Panta suggestions are great - I wore the green one today (a coluur that no longer seems to be in stock). But they are quite earthy in tone, and if you want something more "city", then a Macclesfield might be more you. The burgundy one you chose from Vanda would be a solid choice - though Vanda also has this flowery one that I think is lovely. If you do like the madders, then Panta's rust and burgundy options are begging for your attention.

    While we're in winter time, a wool tie like this from Exquisite Trimmings, or a herringbone like this from the same, would be good friends to you. And in the warmer months, perhaps you could even throw is something a little lighter and brighter, like this from Henry Carter. And if that's not quite C enough for your BD, then that might be the time for your grenadine, in a suitably muted colour. Don't wear a black one though. I know Sean Connery wore a black knit in the iGent's favourite movie reference, but it really isn't right for CBD and a completely black/grey/white outfit sucks all the colour out of you. Navy is OK. Rust, burgundy or green would be lovely.

    That's all for now. If you're going to buy two ties today, I can't say anything more sensible than "get the rust and the burgundy madders from Panta".
     


  3. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Great thread, thanks for setting up clags. More thoughts when I get to work.

    Some good suggestions already.
     


  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Meanwhile in DC today...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014


  5. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    The "homework" was revealing. I think Clags is being slightly generous with his scoring. Judging this purely by rudals' own purposes, I'd have said 0/3, 1/3, 2/3 respectively.

    I think the first green/red stripe Cappelli would work very nicely indeed with a mid-grey suit... but as rudals seems to like navy, nope. The second would be nice with a casual summer look, but again that's not what he wears. The third I just don't like at all.

    The first Exq. Trim. tie looks indigo/purple-ish on my monitor rather than navy, so I wouldn't choose it for a genuinely conservative workplace. The second is summer casual again. The third solid green is fine.

    The first & third Vandas would be great in even a conservative office. I tend not to like any multistripe, so would veer away from the second. Also, it's too casual for his apparently restrictive office.


    But surely the ultimate tie for Noodles is this:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Agree on the multistripe being too casual...but I liked it so much I wanted to give full credit. I think multistripe is workable if it is subtle enough.

    The indigo looked navy on my phone, hence me nixing it. Still, doesn't seem like a great choice.
     


  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    So far in my shopping cart, I have just the green solid grenadine from ET. Or I might go get it from Sam Hober since they seem to be the best with grenadines.
     


  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yup, go with Hober.

    Take advantage of the Drakes sale on ET.

    HW ROUND 2: What is the best green Drakes tie for you on ET? What is the best wool/wool blend for you?
     


  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    David (Hober) and his ties are awesome. If you don't select expedited DHL shipping, you will be waiting about 3 weeks. I would suggest waiting until you have two or three picked out from him to get the most for your $20 DHL shipping. I don't know about you, but I can't wait 3 weeks...DHL only takes about 3 days.
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    not the place, but you are wrong. movie was absolutely excellent.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    some ideas

    http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-g...stripes-on-midnight-blue-grenadine-tie-3.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-fina-solid-ties/forest-green-grenadine-fina-silk-tie-16.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-f...l-gray-silver-grenadine-fina-silk-tie-21.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-fina-solid-ties/dark-sienna-grenadine-fina-silk-tie-31.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/macclesfiel...ld-challis-forest-green-solid-wool-tie-7.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-135.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-133.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-179.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-187.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.pantaclothing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=mad9

    [​IMG]

    http://www.pantaclothing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=mad7

    [​IMG]

    http://www.pantaclothing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=mac1

    [​IMG]


    http://yellowhook-ties.myshopify.com/products/cocoa-cashmere

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...dy-woven-raw-silk-tie-blue-cream-stripes.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1107796/

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...rown-wool-challis-tie-blue-beige-flowers.html

    the brown one

    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1107799/

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...-self-tipped-cashmere-tie-bronze-stripes.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...brown-beige-gingham-self-tipped-wool-tie.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...es/brown-self-tipped-wool-tie-beige-dots.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde.../grey-silk-woven-tie-silver-navy-paisley.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde.../burgundy-tan-houndstooth-woven-silk-tie.html

    [​IMG]

    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...self-tipped-silk-tie-green-foulard-print.html

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014


  12. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Most of those are pretty good choices, rudals. You should thank stitchy for putting in the effort for you.

    I have personal quibbles with several of them, but that's more down to personal prejudices: I don't like non-solid grenadines, I prefer the bigger grenadine weave to the smaller one, I don't like ties that have multiple textures in them (this one I feel is less of a personal prejudice and more of a general rule of thumb though), and I really don't like geometrics or paisleys where the things are in perpendicular grids rather than diagonally-aligned ones, or ones where the pattern is close. I also think larger-scale houndstouth ties aren't great in conservative settings (smaller scale ones, sure). I've spoilered all the above ones out of stitchy's list, so you can get an idea of what I'd suggest from this selection. To reiterate, most of my filtering is personal taste plus a slightly stricter interpretation of what might work in a conservative office in case rudals' one is stricter.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014


  13. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Well, stitchy just listed most of what I was going to suggest.

    I would shy away from super textured stuff to start at least (shantung, etc). Focus on the basics.

    Keep in mind that solid grenadines work better IMO with a patterned (striped) shirt. All solids can be a very austere look best left to evening wear IMO.
     


  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I am quite fond of this:http://www.exquisitetrimmings.com/products/Ties/Grey-Pindot-Wool-and-Silk-Tie.html
    [​IMG]

    Yes! Last time I ordered 3 Hobers and the turnaround time was about a week on DHL! Then I got hit with some import duty tax. Don't know what that's about.

    I can't wait to see it!

    Stitchie,
    Thank you very much for taking your time in picking out these ties. I've narrowed it down to the above. See comments/questions below the pix. [​IMG]

    Awesome! Thanks for the help! Maybe one day you can help me don on a nice floral tie...errrr...maybe not. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014


  15. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    In this thread, it's very much a case of do as I say, not as I do!! [​IMG]
     


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