Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes he does.

    JRD, did you ask Hober for the thinnest lining available? I don't know if you had already bowed out of the thread, but we figured out that Hober uses the same mill as Cappelli (Hober uses both, the grossa and fina from one and the other two from the other)

    Also, do people buy Isaia lapel pins? Like....to pretend they're wearing Isaia?

    I hate people.
     


  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I rejoined. :D

    I did indeed ask for the thinnest lining.

    I'm not sure Hober and Cappelli use Fosseti. (U saw the comment from another member about the British mill that I posted)
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you keep reading that thread, you'll see he was mistaken [​IMG]
    But provided the weaves are the same, I guess Cappelli uses a thinner lining. Good to know.

    On another note, who buys Isaia lapel pins?
     


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    They're a big fucking deal on fleabay.

    I like the look of them too. Cool color. Less frilly than a felt flower lapel decoration. And certainly cooler than a flagpin

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014


  5. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Are those ties keepers or for sale, JRD? I like the one to the far right.
     


  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In the Hober thread, there's a very informative post about linings from David: http://www.styleforum.net/t/245529/a-sam-and-david-hober-tie-appreciation-thread/4470#post_6948285

    There are some added thoughts on the last page. What I take from his detailed discussion is that the key is to match lining to fabric and not simply to have a light lining (as I had assumed). While I have not yet ordered a Hober tie, only a matter of time, what I take from David is that the aim is to convey what you want to the bespoke tie maker, and who then uses his/her expertise to achieve the effect (which will be one step in a process towards an ideal). I had questioned him about achieving the knot in this pic in a grenadine garza grossa (knot is a bit more tapered and elongated than my other ties...)


    [​IMG]



    David actually suggested a thicker lining to do so (which was counterintuitive to me). Anyway, will let you know how the first grenadine comes out, but do check out the Hober thread for David's thoughts.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014


  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    JRD,

    in the link, Hober also notes that there are occasionally specialty weaves of wool interlining that come out of England occasionally. Perhaps that's what the other poster was referring to when talking about Cappelli sourcing their grenadine fabric from England?
     


  9. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Hey guys, my navy jacket from Yoox came in this evening. I was hoping to get some guidance on what you guys think of the fit and styling etc. Is it a keeper or should I send it back? Also, if it is a keeper, what should I change the buttons to? I was thinking brown horn? Could anyone link me to a set on eBay they think are good? Thanks!

    I apologize for the poor picture quality in the artificial lighting with a wife who does NOT want to be taking photographs of me right now. :p

    Maker: Benci
    Fabric: Flannel

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  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    The Cappelli grenadine material is softer. This is a fact. :D

    The thinnest lined grenadine from Cap is also thinner than the thinnest lined grenadine from Hober. This is another fact. :D

    It's all based on personal preference. It doesn't mean that Cappelli is innately superior to Hober. Don't know what else I can say.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Send the jacket back, for sure.

    -Too short
    -Too tight in the torso


     


  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2B, due to your posterior, err on the side of long for your jacket lengths. It might be possible for a tailor to let it out at the back to decrease the vent gaping.
     


  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Also @luv2breformed, it could just be my eye, but the buttoning point seems far too high.
     


  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2BR

    Honestly, it's too short (forgetting everything else). Wears like the 29 inch in you pics a few posts ago. The vent is gaping a bit, button stance too high for your current tastes (which are appropriate). Shoulders aren't as clean as they could be (see Rudals 38 Isaia versus his 40 Zegna). Not a fan of the elbow patches but you'll be seeing those for a while (really popular last few years in Europe).

    I say return. This is the thing about YOOX, a crapshoot. My two cents.
     


  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Appreciated your thoughts about this JRD.
     


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