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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    :slayer:
    honestly, i like em. they may not be exactly what SF required because they are derby laced, but they dont bother me.
     
    2 people like this.
  2. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    I'll state my position, though I'm a newb.

    There once was a rule that balmorals are to be worn with suits and derbies are to be worn with odd jackets. Not sure if this derived from city/county distinction or what.

    Few hold to this rule currently, manton does pretty strongly I think, and I'm not sure who else.

    If one held to this view, then your first pair of shoes would be a sort of contradiction in terms. The are black and sleek indicating formality, while their derby styling would indicate informality. Given this view I think the only place for them would be fairly formal monochrome or close to it odd jacket city type fits. Pretty narrow usefulness.

    However, if one did not hold to this rule, then the fact that they are derbies does not inform their range of uses at all, and they would virtually interchangeable with the c and j you just bought. This is why SB fought so hard that they are fine for you.

    I actually quite like the second pair of shoes from this photo. They seem to be fairly simple brown bals, a CM staple. YMMV
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    You're a n00b?!
    RTC is a n00b so hush!

    As for your comments, I can do a side by side comparison with the black derby and C&J oxfords and see how they look, but WHO besides SF forum members would know that oxfords are for suits and formals while derbys are for less formal/business casual.

    As for the brown shoes, I like the color on this but that pair was received with such hate that I had to wonder why. Glad you like them. I love the two tone color on that brown.
     
  4. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    the answer is nobody, but if that were a valid argument, we might as well close the forum. what im saying is, that even within the confines of SF, i dont think its such a big deal.
     
  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Glad you stepped up your shoe game! You'll look excellent for the wedding! Those C&Js look much better than those RLBLs, surely you can see that when comparing them side by side?
    The leather and construction quality should also be much better, meaning that they'll hold up better over time. The last shape is a little more attractive as well.
    Plenty of people outside of SF know the distinction between a derby and an oxford, but very, very few would hold that against you. But then again, plenty of people also wear matching squares and ties, so it's a bit nonsensical to ask whether the average person would know. That would mean you're setting a very low bar for yourself when it comes to dressing.

    Anyway, my main gripe was that you paid a shitload of money for subar quality shoes. Brands such as Carmina or C&J just offer a better value for money.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    This



    This too.

    Doodals, I'm glad you went down this road. Now you know what last works for you and you can build a real collection around that.

    The key now is to look after them and they will last you a lifetime. You have bought a seriously well made pair of shoes.

    Lasts go in every time you take em off, then wipe em clean and don the bags. When you get them out again quick buff of your shine, up to you as per mirrored or not. Then you are good to go. Never leave it late to re-sole or heel.

    Enjoy my friend.
     
    3 people like this.
  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    But I was not a member of SF when I purchased them so I should be forgiven. I cannot believe the dumb things I have done and would have continued to do had I not had SF.
    - Buy overpriced shoes
    - Buy navy ties that look very similar from NM
    - Buy ill-fitting $4000 suits from NM and pay more to get them tailored

    I thought if it had a brand name and it cost a lot that it was of good quality. I was very very wrong. This thread has certainly steered me in the right direction.
    Now, only if I can get a bespoke suit from Field's with permission from my wife...
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thank you, Cleav!
    I believe I have a good routine for taking care of my shoes. I put them in cedar shoe trees and put wax on them AND to overkill I never wear them outside. I have beater shoes that I wear outside and I wear my nice shoes inside only. Then again, I never had nice shoes until now!
     
  9. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Fair enough about shoe care, I was just saying
     
  10. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Cleav, I found your quick care guide helpful!

    :cheers:
     
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  11. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Caring for shoes after you purchase them is just as, if not, more important than picking the right shoes.

    Especially if you live in a major city.
     
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  12. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I'm going to add a few things here:

    BOLDED Wax will dry out the leather. Use it sparingly on the heels/toes if you must but try and find a paste polish that will have minimum amounts of carnuba in it. This will give a decent shine but more importantly it will nourish the leather. I just bought some glenkaren product from another member on here ( http://glenkarencare.com/gkcp/ ) and so far out of all the other brands/products I like this the best. It's all natural and I have a great shine from their paste polish. Now if I am so inclined I can put a high shine on the heel/toes using a carnuba based neutral wax polish.

    That being said, get a kit started, nothing crazy but a couple horse hair brushes, one black, one for brown shoes and above mentioned polishes. You may want to purchase a jar of leather cleaner/conditioner as well (For Calf leather, Shell Cordovan/Horse Leather is different) Grab some old tshirts to use as towels and follow the steps: Clean, Condition (can be all in one), Polish, Protect. Use your horse hair brush to remove the polish then use a cloth towel to buff to shine.

    Secondly, I personally living in 4 seasons highly recommend to invest in two things, 1. Golashes (rubber shoe covers) to get you two and from. 2. Have a Cobbler apply a sole topy, vibram is what I use. Now, part 2. comes with contreversy from purists but it after breaking my leg falling down wet metal stairs in my dress shoes I put them on all my shoes. It gives added traction and for $24 to my cobbler extends the life of the sole. In lieu of golashes I have some beater shoes that work too. Any time your shoes get wet, let them dry naturally, don't put them by a heater to dry.

    I may be missing some stuff but I'm pretty adamant about my shoe care so feel free to fire off any questions. :slayer:

    Couple more things: Shoe care thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc lots of opinions and information.

    Crats bull polish/spit shine/high shine video: http://chriscrat.tumblr.com/post/42997583917/spit-polishing-a-shoe it's really not hard but it takes 10+layers to get a good mirror shine. I had it going on for a couple pairs of mine but then I scuffed em and got lazy

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2014
    2 people like this.
  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Hey guys. The knottery is doing a grenadine tie pre-order at $50 a pop in forest, black, maroon, and navy. Widths 3.25 AND 3.5.

    2 questions:

    1. Good kop?
    2. Width for my 38R 17" width shoulders frame?
     
  14. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    How many would you get? I ask because I think if you say "all four" I'd tell you I'd prefer to pick two colors and maker them Hobers or another excellent maker.

    Also, likely 3.25" ... but make sure tie width and lapel width aren't very different than each other because then it looks silly.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    I was gonna say all four. I've been meaning to get some grenadines, but I wear CBD so infrequently I haven't been able to justify spending as much on them when they're so pricy. I figured this might be a good opportunity to pick up all the staples.

    I'm glad I asked here because my main problem has always been buying all the things when I think they're a good deal. If the construction on these is that poor I'll just keep waiting and not get any.
     
  16. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Well to be honest I know nothing about this particular site so they may in fact be a good deal. However, I did browse the rest of the site and wasn't all that impressed so that is what I based my answer upon.

    I don't think you need all four.

    If you don't wear CBD that often and can remain patient I highly recommend waiting for something like the next Mr. Porter big sale - even Drake's grenadines were 50% off for that one.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Chipp's lining is pretty thick, and I think someone once mentioned it isn't 100% wool. I'd definitely get 2 or 3 Hobers rather than 4 Chipps.
     
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  18. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    Nvm. Didn't read previous page.

    Good buy. Sky Valet does fantastic cobbling work; non't hesitate to take your shoes there.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    i have no chipps, but i second that.
     
  20. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I tried Crat's method but gave up after the 5th layer...[​IMG]
     

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