Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Eilay, this is the C and J Factory shop in Northampton, though it could only rival some collections held here.:)
     


  2. Sundance

    Sundance Active Member

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    Man, I'm still struggling to get an eye for jacket length. I would think, based on what I've seen on this forum, that the 31" looks just about right. Or maybe that's just in reference to your arms and torso? Maybe it's too long in relation to your legs? I don't know. Still working on this stuff. What specifically makes you call that too long?
     


  3. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    The reason you still struggle with this is that there really aren't hard and fast rules. There are really just rules of thumb. Cover your butt, crook of the thumb etc all just get you ballpark. This is also probably why I feel comfortable with wearing jackets that are 2" difference (maybe that shouldn't be the case).

    The best rule of thumb that I have heard is that the jacket should end so that the distance from the ground to the hem is the same distance as from the bottom of the collar to the hem. This rule effectively bisects you (less your head) horizontally. Even though I prefer it, this estimation is still just a rule of thumb, as it doesn't take into account torso vs leg length. Ultimate jacket length is a function of torso length.

    In any case, I have longer arms than most people in my size range. Jacket length being a function of torso length not arm length; when I use that rule of thumb I end up with jackets too long.

    How do I know they are too long? I really think this is pretty subjective. First off, on my 31" jacket, the hem ends 29" above the ground. Again it's just a rule of thumb, but shortening the jacket by an inch would have me hitting that mark. Ultimately however it simply looks too long. It feels too long when I wear it, it looks too long when I look at it. It entirely subjectively is just too long to me.

    Someone posted an equally subjective single sentence earlier in this thread that summed the issue up nicely. It would be nice to dig it up.

    Also I would be happy to hear from one of the council that I am full of it and my proper length is 31". :)

    Noobstruction (myself being the noob) provided by luv2breformed.
     


  4. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    luv2be, I'm not sure why you're thinking about spring/summer oxford shirts and fall/winter oxford shirts.
     


  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2BR

    It's nice you posted the two pics. The 29 inch jacket length seems to me clearly too short. You can go by the "cover your butt" rule to explain this, but I like an aesthetic reason more and I think the picture nicely illustrates why you would want to have the jacket extend a bit further, and why your subjective sense is right (or at least aligns with my subjective sense). (Almost) no one ever wants to see even a little of a man's ass sticking out. How's that for an aesthetic principle?[​IMG]

    That said, from the side, the 31 inch jacket length looks good to me. Perhaps you could go to 30 (gaining some lengthening on your leg-line) and still maintain solidity on top. I can see why you might veer in that direction of slightly shorter. Your suggested range seems reasonable (30-31)

    On your Kamakura shirt: what a lovely roll. I admire it each time I see one of their shirts. If you go to Luxire, perhaps you should make a few slight adjustments, or at least consider:

    1. Suppress the waist slightly (a little blousing in the back but might be due to short length).
    2. lengthen a bit, one inch
    3. a bit more width at the hips; (2) and (3) will help it stay tucked in. It's noticeably tight at hips (though that's not helped by wearing it over trousers...is it tight just over the hip without trousers)?

    If you have a shirt that fits you slightly better at those points, just measure both shirts and adjust for the difference. My two cents.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2014


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This doesn't take into account body shape. A short jacket works better on someone with no ass and narrow hips. So if a person had a long torso and short legs, the bisect in half concept places the end of the jacket a bit higher up his posterior. If he has no hips nor ass, this will work alright. Otherwise, it'll look really awkward, especially when in movement.
     


  7. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Clags, you're better than any Flusser book I ever read. This thread delivers like nothing else in MC, as far as nuts & bolts go.
    Well worth the price of admission to The House of Noodles.
     


  8. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Seriously. So much help from the clags and everyone else in here. I've learned an insane amount in the past few weeks in here. The greatest part is that I am actually beginning to visually see things rather than just following checklists or rules. I am beginning to know why things work or don't which is invaluable information.

    On another note, KOPPED:

    [​IMG]

    I'd like to note that this was very much on my list, rather than being two odd grey jackets from left field; further it should be extremely easy to integrate into the current wardrobe! Length was listed as 30" "down the center of the back". Let's hope that means from bottom of collar!
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2014


  9. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    This was one of my revelations not too long ago. Being on the opposite side, long legs and arms, shorter torso, tat too much ass for slim built, a shorter jacket than 50:50 bisect can work but an extra 1" makes it all look more harmonious and balanced. My sweet spot range is just +/-1/2", depending on cut.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2014


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2B, at some point (probably soon), you may want to ease back on the purchase pedal and really focus your energies working with what you got. A month or two of this, and you'll have a much clearer idea of your needs going forward. The holes in your wardrobe won't be as speculative and you'll be more acquainted with your recent set of purchases.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2014


  11. eilay

    eilay Well-Known Member

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    Is it just me or does that gorge look a bit dated?
     


  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    First Turnbull & Asser tie.
    [​IMG]
     


  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    2 patterns! I think this looks really nice. Well done.

    Will do, sir. Once I get my navy jacket in this week I will be able to determine if it is a keeper or needs to be returned (with everyone's help likely). Assuming that brown tweed fits, that will leave me good on jackets. I will still need to acquire shirts on my list, but I will do so more slowly. Shoes are still woefully lacking however. Once my Meermins come in it will give me a better idea of their last and if investing in more from them will be a good idea. I will probably continue to acquire shoes over the next couple of months. I actually wore loafers with a suit yesterday. I got all dressed up for church and realized I had sold all my poorly fitting dress shoes. The hole was pretty obvious and I felt ashamed for wearing loafers with a suit (nobody else noticed I'm sure).
     


  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    @luv2breformed
    I think you went thru a similar phase that I went thru. Except I am building back up much slower. I returned all the overpriced stuff that I got from Neiman Marcus (thank goodness) and was able to take it slow with SF guidance. I think I am set on shirts and ties. I think my next area of need might be PS...that is if I can live with the derbies that I have.
    But you've certainly done very well with help from Noodles' Thread. [​IMG]
     


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Kent Wang has some great PS's. A little on the small side, but I was pretty happy for that fact when I was starting out with squares. Also, those black balmorals Kent Wang sells are [​IMG]

    I bet your wife OK's them for the wedding.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2014


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