Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    But hadn't we concluded that the lapels are too narrow and the buttoning point too high? Or is this a different cut?
     


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2B
    All excellent shirt choices. The only one I had qualms with was the gray stripe (I dislike fancy stripes), but then I read more carefully and saw you took issue with it for the same reason. Everything else is spot on.


    I saw (and liked...definitely not too city) the gray odd jacket in the WAYWRN thread. You mentioned its measurements are perfect, but it might actually be too short. Not short enough that you shouldn't wear it, but short enough that you should consider adding an inch to your ideal measurements next time you look for a jacket.

    The big issue was that he was wearing the wrong size this whole time (38). In the picture he took in the store, wearing a 40, it looked much better.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2014


  3. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Uncle Sugarbutch,
    Rest assured! This is as traditional as it gets. Zegna recently narrowed their lapels but this one is not a recent one.
    How does it look?
    I am distraught that I was not able to take delivery of this today. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  4. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    jrd essentially spilled the beans in one of his posts. :)
    love. --- l2b - i think the shirt looks great. i love kamakura. also think your list of potential kops was good. like clags said, i am also pretty anti any shirt with more than one color unless its being used very casually. really like the white/brown stripe there, i have a light brown/white borrelli OCBD and it is awesome imo. great biz casual shirt. also, any shirt that you are more likely to wear sans tie than with tie, you should get in a BD collar imho.
     


  5. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    TY so much Clag. You seriously always provide excellent feedback and advice. Can I ask one follow up question? Would you recommend button down or spread collars for each of the checks/tattersalls that I chose?

    So I reexamined the length of some of my jackets after your and AAS' response, and I goofed when ordering these jackets. FWIW my shortest jacket is 29" from the bottom of the collar, and I always felt that it was a tad too short for my preference. My longest jacket is 31" from the bottom of the collar and I always felt it is a tad too long on me. I'll put them for reference below. Therefore I always thought that my ideal jacket length is 30".
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Imagine my happiness when these two gray jackets I bought were listed with the following measurements:
    Overall Length: 29.5"; Overall Length: 30"

    Did you make the same mistake I did? I measured length from bottom of collar while they measured the overall length. No wonder they look an inch short! I'll keep the jackets (thank you for the reassurance btw), but definitely look for 30" from BoC in the future!

    Alright, gonna call Kamakura and start shirt kopping. Thanks again!!!
     


  6. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Double thanks, Stiches! Always appreciate your input. About to get on the kop train! :)
     


  7. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    My pleasure. Choo choo says the kop train!!
     


  8. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    KOPPED:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The twill was actually double cuff so I got broadcloth instead. I hope that wasn't a mistake. Can broadcloth be worn with tweed or flannel/herringbone?

    Plan now is to send my current ocbd in to Luxire to have it copied into the fabrics kamkura didn't have (let me know if any of my spread collar choices should have been BD before then please!). By that time I should have the spread collar from kamkura and can see if you guys think it is worth having copied as well. THEN I can kop the last of my choices (spread collars) from Luxire. I love it when a plan comes together!
     


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Yay 4 kops!! Yay 4 plans!!

    Personally I try to wear shirts with texture when wearing jackets with texture, but it can be fine I think. Not 100% sure.
     


  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I really like my solids to have texture. And one color max per shirt is a good rule, one which I would break after careful consideration. I have four multicolor shirts. One a small scale graph check with navy and blue. Another tattersall with blue and brown...very rustic cloth so it works great. The other two, both graph checks, one green and blue the other navy and red, don't get worn at all. Though I think the green and blue may have potential in the spring.

    The point is, good purchases shouldn't be a challenge to use. They shouldn't just have potential. If integrating into your wardrobe requires thought, it probably shouldn't have been purchased in the first place, at least not yet. At some point you may have organically acquired the items which would have allowed the first piece to work well in several contexts. Since there would be no struggle, purchase.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I think checks have a greater allowance for more than one color than stripes. White/brown/blue makes for a great graph/check/gingham.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2014


  12. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Fantastics collections
     


  13. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    It's hard to wear a flat fabric with tweed jackets, unless the fabric is particularly coarse. That broadcloth shirt doesn't fall into that category; I wouldn't pair it with tweed. IMO if a shirt has a fairly prominent pattern, you can use it against tweed even it's broadcloth because the pattern provides the visual interest itself. Obviously, that's more of a case-by-case thing.

    However, it's much less challenging against flannel (especially lighter weight flannel) and perfectly fine with a worsted herringbone business suit.
     


  14. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Thanks, guys. I cancelled the broadcloth since my suit wearing is minimal and I already have 2 double cuff shirts for that purpose. I am out a kamakura spread collar now however to send to luxire for copies. Are luxire's house spread collars good? Does anyone have something like a template that I can reference them to? How would I find my optimum collar?
     


  15. eilay

    eilay Well-Known Member

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    Please forgive my naïveness, but is this someone's collection, or are these shoes for sale?
     


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