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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    Traditional thinking is the lapel should approximately split the distance between the neck/inside edge of the suit and the shoulder seam, so one would see a wider lapel on a broader shouldered man. I think there is generally some latitude there - it is not an exact "rule". THat being said, those look too wide. Also see https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-wide-should-my-jacket-lapels-be.html
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    For some odd, unknown reason, this thread has died a death since the departure of its former namesake.
     
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  3. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    Alright then, let me attempt to revive it.

    It's 30+ celsius here. Every damn day. 100% humidity. Or 95% humidity with sun (not sure which is worse). I grew up in cold, rainy climes. I worked most of my life in them.

    What is the best way to deal with this tropical weather? Fit, materials, colours...
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    SF has been dead in general. I chalk it up to the usual warm season reticence, but it's Fall already.
     
  5. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Not wearing a jacket if possible. Lots of linen or linen blends (open weave wool if you need to be crisper and more professional). I tend to think lighter colors work better aesthetically in hotter weather (and might wear a tiny bit cooler), but I think color is less important than fabric. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about adjusting fit for the weather. Wear what looks good and what you are comfortable in.
     
  7. aj805

    aj805 Well-Known Member

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    @crdb I live in such a place, and would agree generally with archibaldleach.

    I wear mostly linen during the (5) hottest months, although I believe wool frescos are actually superior in look and comfort.

    I find fit to actually be important, I have my warmer weather clothes fit more loose, and particularly around the openings such as the sleeve cuff, it seems to make quite a difference.

    Don't forget about the undergarments--thin merino wool socks and loose all-cotton boxers can be the difference between sweating profusely and being actually comfortable. Avoid polyester.

    If you are spending any time in direct sunlight, light colored, loose-fitting clothes--even an unlined jacket--are your friends. I top it off with a Shantung fedora and I'm good.
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have it bad in the (long) summer, with weeks regularly above 40, but I'm able to park in a covered garage less than 50 meters to my office and it never is too humid, so it probably is not quite so miserable a situation that you have.

    ---

    I think slightly looser fits work better in those climates. I have a linen jacket with a decent amount of structure and cut very close, torso and arms, to my body, and it can be a little bit unpleasant, even wearing it unbuttoned. I suspect somewhat full cuts and unstructured jackets will make a difference.

    Materials are also key. Linen, linen blends, and open weave wool, like fresco, will make a big difference, particularly if you're getting your jackets quarter lined.

    I also thinking lighter colors might wear a bit cooler in the summer, and as someone else mentioned, they are congruent with hot weather.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2016
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I agree with Clags, however I have heard that lighter colors being cooler in the heat is a myth. Not sure though.

    Anyway, I know this has been asked before but I can't find the answer. @Claghorn , where do you get those wider knit ties you sometimes wear? I am trying to upgrade my knits.
     
  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stand in the sun with a black shirt. Stand in the sun with a white shirt. No myth.

    Most of my knits are Howard Yount from 3-4 years ago. 3in I think. I know Knottery has 3.5 that @Murlsquirl likes.
     
  11. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    @Murlsquirl , can you comment on the Knottery knit ties? I'm looking for some pointed ones, but the price has me worried. At $35 are they junk?
     
  14. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    Interesting. For some reason I have found the opposite: wearing a tighter fit is cooler. I reasoned that more space between skin and cloth leaves air trapped to accumulate humidity and "cook" under body heat. It also protects the body from the beneficial cooling effect of air flowing past it.

    However, it could be that my looser fits are made of thicker, winter-appropriate material.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Humidity might be a factor there too.
     
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    In addition to what others here have already advised you, I have learnt a few things after living in a humid, tropical climate for 6 years:
    - Don't wear linen, it absorbs all the humidity and your sweat and you'll look like a beat-up cat in no time. Fresco wools are the way to go.
    - Don't forget to wear an undershirt (100% cotton of course), to help soak up some of that sweat and leave you shirt look a bit more crisp.
    - Wear no-show socks, forget the over the calf rule. Not as an iGent statement, but it does help to have a bit of a breeze around the ankles when walking around.

    This is complete bullshit. But then, you knew that already. [​IMG]
     
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  17. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I don't like slim or square knits so I tried them after someone on here suggested[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ....I'm happy with mine. I don't think they're junk. Knottery makes some pretty nice stuff at a good price. UC has some stuff from them too. Here's some shots
     
    4 people like this.
  18. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    On the undershirt: interesting, but I could see two reasons why not.

    First, the race here is against time. You get out of the A/C, you have maybe 3-5 minutes of walking on flat, 1-2 minutes if walking up a hill, before sweat accumulates sufficiently to start transferring to the shirt. An extra layer might soak some up but mostly speeds up the process. The key is humidity - the 100% humidity means nothing evaporates so the game is to avoid heating up as long as possible rather than letting sweat come then evaporate.

    Second, A/C inside buildings here is at 26 celsius vs the Western 23. The warmer temperature is just about bearable in shirt and chinos, but adding another layer...

    On the socks: too casual, I think. I make do with thin socks.

    I'll eventually give fresco a try. Not something you find OTR unfortunately...
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    @Murlsquirl , looking good. Much obliged.
     
  20. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Thanks and no problemo.
     

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