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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Of CM's various suggestions, I definitely back the shoulders the most (and simultaneously, find the extent of SF's love affair with unstructured shoulders baffling, though I like light structure myself). I'd consider those lapels to be fairly for the cut of the jacket, particularly sleeves and shoulders. Never thought of patch pockets in that light, but it makes sense. Though if your desire is to make a jacket appear casual, I don't know that it would be worth the sacrifice.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    On the issue of the patch pockets, I don't think they are the most important part of casualizing a jacket. Fabric, pattern, and buttons are much more valuable in that regard. Patch pockets, then, are on the lower end of the spectrum in terms of importance and well worth sacrificing.
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @Caustic Man brings up some interesting and mostly good points. I figured I'd weigh in as another shorter (5ft7) guy. I have my jackets made with very little padding, but my shoulders are also not particularly sloped so it doesn't have the effect Caustic highlights. I go with jackets that are as short as I'm comfortable with while still basically covering my ass, uncuffed trousers and a slight break (no break risks exposing an excessive amount of sock). I mostly go with patch pockets on odd jackets and flapped or besom pockets on suits (except for a casual suit, like something in linen or seersucker). I think lapel length on my stuff is moderate.

    Other than preferring shorter jackets, I'm not really conscious of my height when making decisions about clothes. I like patch pockets on odd jackets, so I get them. Maybe someone thinks I'm some fraction of an inch shorter due to some optical illusion because of it. I don't care. I hate cuffs on trousers aesthetically, so I never get them and don't like the way moderate to large amounts of trouser break look, so I get a slight break. Both of these things work for my stature. Perhaps I'd avoid cuffs even if I liked them as a concession, but it would depend on how strongly I felt. In general, I'd rather someone think I'm 5ft6 and feel and look confident in my clothes and skin than have someone think I'm 5ft7 and not be as confident and comfortable because I don't like what I'm wearing.
     
    4 people like this.
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Being a short person myself, I can say from experience that only about half of the tips above make any sense.
    Yes to slightly stronger shoulders and a lower buttoning point. But, I've found that the width of the lapels doesn't have much influence on perceived body length, as long as the V created by a lower buttoning point affords enough "verticality". Besom pockets may be a bit more flattering than flap or patch pockets, but not that important IMO. So for a suit, choose besom, but go ahead with patch pockets on your SC's.
    Shorter jackets are not always the best solution: most important is to have correct proportions and fluent lines. So if you drop the buttoning point, don't make the jacket too short because you'll end up with awkward proportions that only draw attention to your being short.
    For a long time I also believed that uncuffed trousers were better, but in the end I've found out it hardly matters. (And cuffed trousers do look nicer). What a short guy should avoid is a trouser break. Make sure your trouser legs just barely touch your shoes.
    This way, you can look like a SF star and Andre The Giant at the same time [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  5. AdidaSuit

    AdidaSuit Active Member

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    Judging by what happened to him, I think the above statement would be more accurate.
     
  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. winghus

    winghus Senior member

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    I'm one of the long torso short legged people with a 29/29.5 inseam but at 6'1" I'm not short. To cover my ass with a jacket I need a long which when buttoned makes my legs look stumpy. In casual clothes (no jacket) a long rise on the pants helps a lot but are Caustic Man's suggestions something I should take to heart for myself?
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    [​IMG] That's a full 2 inches shorter than my no-break inseam and I am the same height.
     
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    You are slightly contradicting yourself. You said half of what I said makes sense and yet you also suggest that everything I said makes at least a little sense. I never said that all these corrections were equally important, just that they can all help. In any case, shorter jackets are always a good choice.

    I also think you are slightly fooling yourself and falling too much in-line with SF dogma on the cuff thing. I like cuffed trousers, but they do accentuate shortness. Not only by creating vertical lines but by increasing the girth of the ankle making your leg look beefier and stubby. This is clear in the JCM pic, where he should be looking to slim the appearance of his legs at every opportunity. If you simply must have cuffs at least make them slimmer than the wide cuffs worn by taller men.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    You're 6'1 and base your opinion about what works on shorter men on pics from JCM. I have been 5'7 for the past 3 decades or so and speak from experience. Who is fooling himself here?
    I just explained that from my own experience shorter jackets are not always a good choice and cuffs do not add significant girth or stubbiness.
     
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  11. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    What a remarkably stupid thing to say.
     
  12. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I wouldn't be annoyed but I would politely tell the tailor. They understand that they make mistakes and its factored into the price that they charge. On those rare occasions when something goes wrong, most bespoke tailors are going to want to fix it and they aren't going to view you mentioning a mistake as insulting. It's just like any other business. Shit goes wrong and you fix it. No biggie.
     
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Heresy. :)
     
  14. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Ah, this is great. Some really trenchant positions being taken here. And about clothes 'n shit, too.

    Moar. Moar!
     
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  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Just wait, sooner or later you'll shrink an inch or two.
     
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  16. yanagi

    yanagi Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I take that as a compliment:)


    Really? To me it sounded more like someone calling another poster stupid instead of trying to address the point that's being made.

    Nice use of the word 'trenchant', by the way, on the centenary commemoration of the battle of the Somme. ;)
     
    4 people like this.
  18. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    As an man of average height, the only thing I really notice on less-than-average height people in real life is that their eyes are lower than mine. Sometimes I can see a birthmark on their scalp.
    I've never considered cuffs, sometimes I observe a jacket too long or too short, and shoulder pitch is not nearly as noticeable as shoulder width.
    Most often I notice a nice fabric, pleasing colors, or tasteful pattern matching. Fat/skinny/ugly/jacked grill/small shoulders are just life and there's only so much one can do. I'm not advising to do nothing, but I will say there are more important things to consider.
     
    3 people like this.
  19. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Of course I didn't call you stupid.

    Your post merited no response because you didn't give any evidence.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
  20. Slh

    Slh Senior member

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    CM's suggestions are fine and I agree with most of them but in the end just wear what you like, no reason to wear clothes that you don't like attempting to look taller.
    It's obvious a short person should not wear trousers with 2+" inches cuffs ( mine have around 1,25 inches), pants too long, overly long jackets, huge lapels, etc.
    I also read short people should not wear patterned jackets, basically a short guy based on these "rules" has a very limited choice when dressing. Don't wear sandals to the beach, you lose around an inch of height compared to regular shoes, I forgot to say.
    Also jcmeyer doesn't look that short to me based on the previous picture, I thought he was around 5ft7/8inches, but I remember he stated he is 5ft5in.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2016

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