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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    Los Angeles, CA
  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Guess where I just was...

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  3. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    You should remove that pic if you want us to guess
     
    6 people like this.
  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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  5. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Sweet, Caustic--please post some updates post-visit.
     
  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    I'm gonna try to set an appointment for when I'm in NY in a few months...def post pics/thoughts
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    So Aaron is very likable and has a great sense of humor. I feel safe in saying that most will have an easy time working with him. The pop-up location is a very small office in a multi-floor building in the Garment District. Aaron's wardrobe consists of many pieces from KW so he really knows the products he's dealing with. In addition to the trial suits that he has for you to try on he also had several examples from his own collection. I had mentioned to him that I was interested in summer suits so he brought in several of his own lightweight wool, linen, linen blend, and cotton suits so that I could see the finished products. There are also a selection of shirts and shoes that you can try on if you are interest.

    First we looked at fabrics and I selected my top 3 choices. I was very interested in the Drago linen fabrics that others here have expressed interest in.

    [​IMG]

    I then came across a book of lightweight gabardine with a spectacular shade of green (T1963) which I think I am going to go with.

    [​IMG]

    After looking at fabrics I tried on a trial suit and Aaron noted adjustments that needed to be made. I took some time to explain to him how I like my jackets and trousers to fit and he was very receptive to getting things just the way I wanted them. It was at this time that he took pictures of the trial suit on me for their tailor to reference. Next we talked about style choices including details such as buttons, pick stitching, gorge height, etc. Aaron has someone of a different aesthetic for his own personal style than many of us on SF, however he is knowledgable about many styles. I began to describe the kind of fit and style choices I make and he immediately picked up on the fact that I was describing a trad/ivy look. Without any prompting from me he suggested a 3r2 and soft shoulder to complete the look. He then suggested I take a few days to think about my choices before making a final decision about what I wanted.

    The final step consisted of him entering my information into his database and taking payment. So, because KW takes payment before your final decisions about fabric and style have been made, they charge you for the tentative suit you ordered at the close of your appointment. Should you decide to change your fabric choice or change anything else which might affect price you will be refunded or charged the difference depending on if your changes are going to end up costing more or less than the original suit you had envisioned.

    Total time between finalizing your suit and the product being shipped was suggested at around one month.

    I hope this information helps anyone preparing to go to the New York pop-up. Any comments or suggestions on my fabric choice are welcome.
     
    3 people like this.
  8. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    That dark green looks magnificent. I'm still waiting on my suit, you just increased my impatience.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    That green is great. I got a racing green that is a bit too bright, now I feel jealous.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Bowball

    Bowball Well-Known Member

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    My jacket came yesterday. Letting the creases hang out before I give it a maiden run tomorrow. Will post pictures when I do.

    First thoughts are that the fit is great but we might have let the waist out a touch too much.
     
  11. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Remind us what fabric you used, Bowball?
     
  12. Bowball

    Bowball Well-Known Member

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    TRE1273 was my choice in the end. I wanted something with a touch more texture than the hopsacks. Lovely and light fabric with some interesting colour.
     
  13. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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  14. Bowball

    Bowball Well-Known Member

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    Well, here is the finished product and my first foray into getting photo critique on SF so here we go...

    [​IMG]

    The clothes have been worn all day and jacket is still hanging out some of the wrinkles from its travels. I have definitely changed my mind about the waist being too loose and now I am wondering about that right sleeve. It sits right on my wrist bone but I feel there's too much shirt hanging out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  15. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    What's going on with the buttoning point? It's curling out in a weird way. To be honest, I'm not seeing anything about that fit that suggests MTM rather than RTW with shortened sleeves.
     
  16. Bowball

    Bowball Well-Known Member

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    Not sure, I think it needs a bit of a press as that lapel is not sitting properly.
     
  17. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    This is interesting. The jacket fits well in all the right places (shoulder, back) which indicates good MTM. The sleeves might be off by a little, but that's an easy fix. I think the main issue is the lack of structure (that's not a good or bad thing - it's about preference). Is the jacket unstructured or unlined? Maybe a thicker canvass / structure would give it better shape. Either way, I think it looks good. Edit: Here's an old photo from @NOBD that shows a linen piece with a bit more of a structured look: [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2016
  18. dazedstate

    dazedstate Senior member

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    Does anyone have a line on some light gray spring/summer weight wool trousers under $150?
     
  19. Bowball

    Bowball Well-Known Member

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    It is lightly canvased with natural shoulders so really not a huge amount of structure. I was aiming for something that had a slightly relaxed, casual vibe about it.

    Sleeve definitely needs some modification but I think you're right that the key areas fit well.

    Now you have me wondering if the next version needs the extra structure or not.
     
  20. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    It's so relaxed, I'd lose the front darts and just get a sack.
     

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