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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    I was shocked at how "normal" the Havana fit me. I'm a 36s in everything and I'm a 36s in that one too. The jacket length is fine and the pants aren't anything near too tight. I think fat guys sizing down give suit supply a bad rap on here.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    Kent is a pretty responsive guy, so it makes sense for you to ask. His MTM is based off modifications to his stock model, so I'm not sure if he's set up to accept just measurements.
     
  3. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    So how many suits/sport coats does one need before they can start to enjoy their clothes?
     
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  4. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    One that you like, seems to be enough to enjoy to me.
     
  5. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    I enjoy my suits and coats a lot. But I also want to ensure they live long and happy lives.
     
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I'm with you....do not like.
     
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  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @sebastian mcfox

    I have two jackets (a Washington and a Hudson) and two suits (a Washington and a Lazio). I'm very happy with them, though I wish the buttoning point of the Hudson were lower. Have to be careful with fabric when dealing with Suit Supply. A lot of what they use is pretty cruddy, though generally you can spot the good from the bad in the close pictures. Best if you go in person, but they have free returns and excellent logistical support

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2016
    7 people like this.
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I have four SS suits. They were all very cheap. I don't expect all of them to last too long - especially the linen one - and a couple of them are a little stretchy and squirrely. But you get what you pay for to a point: the cheapest one - wool, Livorno - is perfectly robust and looks fantastic. It's getting a little large so I'll be picking up some more in a smaller size. Like most SF-ers, I rotate quite a few suits and jackets and constantly look at more, so wear is somewhat relative as an issue. I do find their trousers taper a little more than I'd like, especially the Havana.

    For reference, as a fattish dude (5'11", 210lbs, 43 chest, 38 waist) I tend to need a cut with smaller shoulders, then sized up to accommodate my flab. Fitting the bill are Havana, Hudson and Livorno. Soho is OK too, and I suspect Madison, Harris, La Spalla and Jort would work as well. The popular Lazio, Napoli, Washington etc. have a much higher ratio of shoulder width to chest and waist.

    I'm interested to try the Kent Wang option, though I have some issues with being able to return things easily. In the mean time, I find SS pretty good value at their cheaper end. The House of Spoo is a great place to experiment with sizes and makers too, especially as his measurements are consistent and thorough.
     
  9. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Thanks Clags. Did you take your normal size in both suit models? Any issues with the trouser fit? I have been annoyed by the aggressively tapered pants and small leg openings on some SS suits I've had in the past
     
  10. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Mimo, that's interesting to hear as I'm quite similar in size to you, albeit slightly taller and with a slightly larger chest.

    May I ask how wide you are across the shoulders? That is, what sort of shoulder/yoke measurement do you prefer on your suits and shirts?

    I'm interested in some of Suit Supply's offerings but we don't have a bricks-and-mortar store anywhere in Australia as yet and I can't be bothered fiddling around with ordering and returning without having a reasonable idea as to how they will fit. Of course, SS have measurements on their site for various blocks but it's always nice to hear of "real world" experience from somewhere who is a similar size.
     
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yup, everything is pretty normal sized across the board for me.

    I also agree with Mimo, though again, it depends on the fabric. The flannel (navy suit) and the wool-cashmere blend (tobacco jacket) will probably last a while. The other two I am less sure about (particularly the linen-wool blue peak lapel jacket). Maybe another 2-3 seasons with regular wear. Dunno. It's worth noting that both are spring pieces...I suspect their winter stuff is of sturdier fare.
     
  12. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Which do you prefer most out of the Hudson, Washington and Lazio?
     
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tough to say. I wish they had the Washington buttoning point on the Hudson.
     
  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I have the exact same navy flannel washington. It's amazing. Well more accurately I bought it for a friend, but he left it with me travelling so I steal it and wear it all the time. It's just a pity the sleeves are a little too short for me, but otherwise it's just so perfect. I have a hudson that is similar too, and it's a cashmere brown jacket at a very good pricepoint, and so far has proven durable. It doesn't make sense for me to use suit supply when I already have so many bespoke pieces but I have to say if I was trying to build a wardrobe on a budget or even just had to do it without throwing money into the ocean like I usually do, I'd go for susu every time.

    Obviously you have to find a fit that fits you, but they offer fabrics and cuts that are generic and respectable enough that I think it's very hard to not find it acceptable.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
  15. Spandexter

    Spandexter Senior member

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    @sebastian mcfox

    Havana and Lazio

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I like both jackets. The Havana is comfortable and works really well sans tie for a more casual day at the office. The Lazio has more structure in the shoulder (but still not a heap) and is great for a more formal day at the office. I have no problem with construction or fabric with either. The big disappointment is the pents. I'm a pretty standard 36/30 but the fit on these is just off. I haven't quite nailed the issue yet but there seems to be excess fabric in the upper thigh and the drape is pretty ordinary. I'd like to add a few more SS summer jackets at some point.
     
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  16. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    About 18.5 suits me in the shoulders. More than 19, especially with any kind of shoulder padding, and I don't like the unnatural extension. Each to his own. You can make it out slightly in the pics above: even more so in our size; there would be a full inch and a half difference in shoulder width between those two cuts.
     
  17. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    My biggest problem with SuSu (and what drove me to KW) is that their long sizes are crazy slim. I can't wear SuSu suits because of my oly lifting thighs, but I have four jackets (two Havana, one Hudson, one Washington) that fit well except for the length and buttoning point.

    I take a 42 R in all those jackets, but when I've ordered a 42 L to fix the length and buttoning point issue, the entire jacket fits at least one size slimmer. If the R sized jackets were longer, or the L sized jackets were less slim, I'd own twice as many SuSu jackets by now.

    Still waiting on my first KW suit to arrive...
     
  18. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Did you post what fabric you chose?
     
  19. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Second down on the left. The fabric has a richer saturation in other photos, but those are buried somewhere in my email. It's been roughly 6-7 weeks, so I'm expecting it soon.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  20. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Prince Charles has visible patches on one of his favourite DB suits. That's his sprezz.

    Seb, you seem to have a fairly slim physique and broad shoulders, so I'd say you could look good in just about any of the SuSu cuts.

    Lazio works well for me, as does La Spalla. Havana not quite so good for some reason - perhaps the unstructured shoulder (I have small deltoids which are stubbornly resistant to weight training).

    Right now, SuSu's Aussie pricing is very competitive - I know they have secured a space in Sydney and are developing a retail store there (somewhere in Kent or York street, I was told). My guess is they are trying to develop a local "following" online prior to their B&M launch.

    So if I were you, I'd take advantage of the free-returns policy and go for a suit in a fabric which fills a gap in your rotation. If you can stump up, definitely go for La Spalla or Jort - the fabrics are much better and they are fully canvassed.

    Lazio:
    [​IMG]

    Soho:
    [​IMG]

    Havana:
    [​IMG]

    Lazio (linen):
    [​IMG]

    La Spalla:
    [​IMG]

    (FWIW, I'm 180cm and 77kg, and generally take a 52R in SuSu.)
     
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