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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I disagree with the above. There is a certain leeway that is allowable in matters of style to say that "If it makes you happy then do it". However, the fit of that suit is objectively bad and is probably not fully fixable in that respect. This place is meant for advice, not palliatives. I simply can't imagine that suit ever looking good on you.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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  3. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Caustic Man is right. That suit is just too small. I know you want it to fit, but it doesn't. Cut it loose and move on to a bigger size.
     
  4. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Idk, I think he has some room for movement

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Epicure

    Epicure Senior member

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    Agree with others advice that the suit is too small.

    At the end of the day, pe3brain, it is your decision whether or not you take the advice given.

    I will add this: regardless of what you have spent already, if you try to get the suit tailored (assuming you find a tailor who will take the job) you'll end up with a more costly suit that still wont' fit and certainly won't flatter. You may think you are ok with how the suit looks now, but in time, you are likely to regret not dropping that suit nearest charity bin. Unless of course you can return or resell it.

    Mistakes such as these are painful, I've made them myself. But why not turn it into a learning opportunity rather than to continue on a course that wastes more time and money?
     
  6. pe3brain

    pe3brain Senior member

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    yeah after thinking about it and looking at the pictures a bunch more, I'd rather just return this suit and try to find a better fitting suit.

    also thanks
    @Caustic Man for the more detailed explanation on what is wrong with the suit

    @justinkapur I went with an ebay suit cuz of my price range ($300 plus tailoring) and I want a wool suit with a 3" lapel, and a more traditional trouser width. I havent found a store that has all of these requirements, so thats why I tried ebay.
     
  7. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    ^ suitsupply blue line Napoli. SuSu doesn't quite work for me, but I'm a very particular build. With free shipping and returns, they're definitely worth trying.

    Edit: here ya go
    http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/suit...tml?cgid=Suits&prefn1=lineID&prefv1=Blue Line

    Ignore the size advisor and the measurements, both are total garbage. Just get your usual size or whatever two sizes you're usually stuck between, returns are free.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
    2 people like this.
  8. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Did you find that photo on the "creepy sartorial images" thread?
     
  9. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I agree that SuSu is the place for reasonably priced quality, though I wouldn't necessarily suggest that particular fit, and here's why:

    Although I have changed shape quite a bit over the last couple of years, I'm still overweight. So, I think, are you. Whatever, that's no reason one can't dress beautifully. One thing I found buying suits in larger sizes, is that makers see "larger" as meaning different things: to a more traditional high street place, they assume often that a larger size is frequently a medium sized guy carrying some extra weight. Which for you and me, is fine - it means the larger size is the right shape.

    But for a more youth-focused brand, or one that takes itself a little seriously in the world of style, whether it's Tom Ford at the top end or Suit Supply at the accessible end, "larger" sometimes means Olympic sprinter. The problem with that is that to get the larger chest and waist, you need shoulders like a heavyweight boxing champion. And the waist on the trousers is usually still too small!

    When I first joined SF, I relied heavily on cheap local tailors: not bespoke standard as Savile Row would have it, but a cheaply-tailored suit that fits is better than a designer beauty that doesn't. I'm now considerably lighter, and at this stage shopping around a little for fit is enough - there is sufficient leeway between one style and another. I seem to do OK with Canali and sometimes Zegna; Ralph Lauren always has a large shoulder to waist ration and never fits. YMMV, and I wouldn't be able to say from your pics - not that it's my business anyway - what is likely to be right for you.

    However, if you do go the Suit Supply route (where are you, by the way?), my own experience:

    - the size adviser is likely to fit you too small as CT said
    - but the measurements have worked out OK for me; there's a variance within every suit of course
    - Napoli has a relatively large ratio of shoulder width to chest/waist size in larger sizes, so I didn't go there
    - ditto the popular Lazio, and Washington even worse
    - I have Havana, Hudson, Livorno and Soho; Madison and Harris I believe would also fit OK
    - The Havana has the trimmest waist; the Hudson gets the most compliments (partly because it's a crazy cloth, but it does hang well), and the Livorno has a little shoulder padding and very flattering, businessy look.
    - All the trousers are quite tapered, the Livorno least; I have big calves as I've always walked on my toes and so sometimes SuSu suits are a little closer than I'd like below the knee and catch when I wear long socks

    I don't know your size, but an important note on sizing - please excuse me if I'm stating the obvious, but it's cited so often here even by knowledgeable people and retailers themselves, that it's worth saying:

    The conversion from Euro sizes to US/UK sizes is not just "take away ten". It's repeated so lazily because for a medium height slim fellow who takes a Euro 50,a UK 40 just happens to be the right conversion. Firstly, it will vary by maker - the Euro maker is more likely to give a size closer to the actual size, in my experience, and the US maker the more likely to give a generous allowance i.e. assume that's your actual measurement and make plenty of allowance. But that varies from maker to maker. The second, important thing, is that the actual size conversion diverges rapidly as the size gets larger. Euro 50 means 50cm across. This means 100cm around. Which converts reasonably closely to 40 inches for practical purposes. But a 56 is 112cm, which is only 44 inches, not 46. An EU 60 is 120cm, barely over 47 inches, nowhere near a US/UK 50. So there you have it, in case you didn't already!

    Anyway, perhaps the first step if you want some advice here is to find a jacket that's really comfortable, or that you think fits well across the shoulders and chest. Take some advice, and if the jacket's good, measure the shoulder seam distanc, "pit to pit", and length from the bottom of the collar to the hem as a starting point. Get your actual chest and waist measurements too, giving yourself perhaps 7-10cm or 3-4 inches allowance. But for me, it's the shoulder measurement that's important: if it's really too small, the chest will pull, or in our case, if it's too big the shoulders will float around on their own and the sleeves look baggy and unkempt. I find I have about 3-4cm leeway for a little extension where it looks good. Any more and it starts to lose something.

    But we're here to help. I hope that ramble has been useful in some way, and excuse me if I've been disrespectful, that's not my intent at all. I've always felt rather strongly that this forum needs to be about everyone dressing better, and not just a place to look at 21 year old crossfit enthusiasts pasting their Instagram feeds. :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
    7 people like this.
  10. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    ^Very good and useful post, particularly for larger people (such as myself), mimo!
     
  11. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Kind of you to say: I forgot to add that the La Spalla and Jort fits also seem likely to work for me, but in that price range I'm maybe looking at other options.
     
  12. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    In the past some Napoli and Havana suits have been offered as separates, but currently only the Havana traveler is being offered as separates. I own that suit and like it, but it's casual and leans fashion-forward in length.

    I suggest the Napoli because it's the most accommodating fit, one of the cheapest, and isn't as casual as some of the other lower-tier fits (Havana and Hudson have unpadded shoulders).

    If you're a heavier guy on a budget, I don't think you'll do better than the Napoli cut. Unless you're looking for soft shoulders and a more casual suit, in which case I'd say the Havana could be versatile since it has hip patch pockets, but a welted breast pocket.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016
  13. pe3brain

    pe3brain Senior member

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    thanks mimo and captain I'll look into the Lazio and napoli. The measurements of hickey suit I was wearing is 18.5" shoulder, 22" chest, 40.5" waist was the top button. this is fairly similar to the Lazio 42" and the napoli 42" is similar in chest and waist, but is an extra inch in the shoulder. either way both of those would be too small so I'll try the 44" in each and we'll see how they fit. mimo I'm located in US Minnesota.
     
  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I suspect the shoulders of the Lazio and the Napoli will be too wide, but returns are easy after all.
     
  15. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    What wud cause a creasing to appear behind your neck (below the collar) on your jacket?
     
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Thanks for this - had no idea.
     
  17. pe3brain

    pe3brain Senior member

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    Mimo yeah I am pretty sure both will be I have a Calvin klein suit that doesn't fit anywhere and has 19" shoulders that are too big
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016
  18. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    This is spot on, in my experience.

    European retailers are also more likely to carry size 34 jackets, a boon for slender chaps like me.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  19. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    As far as I'm aware, it can be caused by various things, some of which are inter-related:

    - Jacket being too tight across the back of the shoulders;
    - Too tight across the top of the shoulders;
    - An erect stature;
    - Square shoulders (similar to erect stature); or
    - A short back balance.

    Generally, tailors will try to rectify the horizontal wrinkle below the collar by taking up the excess cloth in the wrinkle and putting it under the collar.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  20. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    Pe3brain I wear a 18.5 shoulder and 22.5 chest and just bought (yesterday actually) a SuSu Hudson in 42. You look like a much bigger dude than me so I'd take the advice of an earlier poster and get an additional size up since you can return for free.
     

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