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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What did Field say about it? Seems a little too tight to get really get a relaxed feeling.
     
  3. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I am driving to his shop now. I'll get his take. Also taking the Cappelli tie. Too wide.
     
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I think, Noodles, that that suit of yours could be benefited from a longer jacket, your hips look a bit wide, but I remember you already bought a long suit, so no problem. :D
     
  5. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    My hips wide?
    How dare you?!
    Lol
     
  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    :lol:

    That effect is what causes the short jacket, not that you actually have wide hips. :lol:
     
  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Every time I go into see Will, I come out astonished. I will do my full review but for now I need to figure out my ring size. Just realized that I also need a wedding band. Field Tailors is awesome. I am impressed again.

    The Visit:
    So my first problem was with this pants.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The problem was that I didn't have enough fat in my buttocks to pull or push against the pants. Because I have a flat buttocks the back of the trouser just fell flat. This created crease upon crease upon crease as you can see from the picture. Basically, it will be fixed by lifting everything up. Will was very informative and explained the problem very well. My last tailor (that !@#$%&%##) just said that I look good and turned me away.

    Second, problem: The tie that looked funny.
    [​IMG]
    I complained from the beginning that this tie is just too wide for me. Boy was I embarrassed. It was a very quick fix with some education.
    Basically, this tie looked awesome with a full windsor knot. The reason why it looked so funny was that the material was just so fine that it didn't have enough to form a nice knot with 4IH. When done with a full Windsor knot, this tie looked freaking awesome. I really appreciated that Will actually spent the time to show me how to tie a Windsor and educate me.

    I am really understanding why buy stuff off the rack isn't the best option when you're paying $3k and it doesn't fit you properly. I am going bespoke.

    For those in the DC region, I strongly recommend Field Tailoring in Georgetown. A+

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
    3 people like this.
  8. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    I could do with a longer straighter drive, you played today B?
     
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  9. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I challenge you to a death match duel senor Betel for offending me. On guard!
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Nop. I haven't played golf since last week, I used to play everyday when I was stuying, that ended 3 years ago. [​IMG]

    Wait! I wrote that worng, what I meant is that the short jacket gives that effect. [​IMG]
     
  11. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Well, I wonder if ever you and I could peg it up in a SF Golf Challenge?

    Maybe a very difficult, if not impossible, thing to arrange but it would be nice wouldn't it dear friend?

    Whenever you play, play well B!
     
  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Indeed it will be magnificent! :)

    Same to you, Cleav! Get a lot of birdies!
     
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  13. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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  14. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

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    @Rudals the sag rumples under the seat is a common problem with RTW trousers that use a belt. The use of braces usually assists with such issue because the trousers sit higher. A simple reduction of the back seam generally alleviates this issue also.

    Regarding the wedding suit, there can only be nitpicks to improve the fit. I prefer a slight break to my trousers so I like the current look. Pair that combo with a white FC shirt and wedding tie, polish those derbies and you will look splendid.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
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  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I complained from the beginning that this tie is just too wide for me. Boy was I embarrassed. It was a very quick fix with some education.
    Basically, this tie looked awesome with a full windsor knot. The reason why it looked so funny was that the material was just so fine that it didn't have enough to form a nice knot with 4IH. When done with a full Windsor knot, this tie looked freaking awesome. I really appreciated that Will actually spent the time to show me how to tie a Windsor and educate me.



    If you care about clothes, a knowledgeable and expert tailor is a must.

    I am puzzled about the Windsor helping with the width of the tie. In the pic, I think a lot would be taken care of if you had appropriately wide lapels in the jacket. The incongruity between the thinner lapels and the width of the front blade is what's really throwing it off for me in this pic. I don't think tie's width is off putting (though I am inclined to say that if it was 1/4 inch or so narrower, that would be better).

    Perhaps it's a larger knot on top balancing with the bottom that helps? But do explain this magic with a pic!
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2014
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  16. MGoCrimson

    MGoCrimson Senior member

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    The man works wonders. Glad you had your issues resolved.

    This thread is hilarious and informative btw. Thanks for letting everyone experiment with your wardrobe.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Forgot to take a pic of the Windsor cus I was stunnd but I had to run to Tiffanys...[​IMG]
     
  18. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Have you tried a double FIH or shelby/pratt knot? Anyway, regardless of the knot, the width of that tie will look great with a double breasted suit or a suit with wider lapels. I've worn a 4" tie with DB suits before, and it doesn't look disproportionate at all. The relation between tie width and lapel width is the most important when it comes to looking good, not the knot.
     
  19. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thank you Monkeyface.
    Yes, you're right that it is tie and lapel width that is more important. But the tie itself looked really funny even with a double loop 4IH. But I was almost stunned when I saw it in a Full Windsor knot. It just looked perfect.
     
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  20. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thank you for the feedback.
    The tailor did say that he sees it a lot. I thought it was more of because I didnt have an arse like Beyonce.

    Yes, for the wedding I will be sporting a white shirt and those derbies.
     

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