Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seems like suits you know what you want. Given that you'll only be wearing these a few times a month, another 4-5 odd jackets would seem to be right. Let's say two of those are navy (one staple and one with a good amount of texture or maybe just flannel), leaving us with 3 to choose from.

    For your purposes, the NMWA you liked is a pretty solid choice--that'll be your loud pattern. I really like brown as an odd jacket, and generally in winter weights with texture (flannel/tweed), but since you want a bit more year round versatility, maybe a brown pick and pick. I do think linen is wonderful, so for the last, linen navy or linen in a lighter blue (since you already have two blues.

    As far as shirts, 2-3 white shirts with hefty spread collars (my preference, but it depends on your face shape and size...as long as the collar points fall beneath your lapels. A blue OCBD and maybe a white. Two solid light blues, one with a super small scale pattern for visual interest. Maybe two striped.

    Pants, definitely mid gray flannel. Two other grays in medium weight, perhaps twill from Howard Yount. One or two browns (one flannel if two). One summer weight light gray.
     
  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Taking a step back and less talking, I reviewed what my biggest need is at this point. Shirts. So I noodled 2 shirts. I thought about things that I learned here and applied it. It probably is not as complicated as suits or ties. Let me know if you guys have particular thoughts on these shirts.
    [​IMG]
    This one is brown.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Both look just about perfect.
     
  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quote:
    Pants from HY:
    [​IMG]
    http://www.howardyount.com/collections/pants/products/lambswool-flannel-mid-gray
    [​IMG]
    http://www.howardyount.com/collections/pants/products/four-season-super-100s-mid-gray

    [​IMG]
    http://www.howardyount.com/collections/pants/products/three-season-super-110s-d-ring-light-gray

    [​IMG]
    http://www.howardyount.com/collections/pants/products/lambswool-flannel-pants-brown

    [​IMG]
    http://www.howardyount.com/collections/pants/products/wool-fresco-pants-brown
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    :nodding:

    well done, rudals!
     
  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Appreciate you all for your feedbacks.
    :)
     
  8. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    This seems fairly well aligned to what I was thinking, and what, I believe I've been working towards, albeit misguidedly. I like the idea of a touch of flannel/tweed on one end of the spectrum, and then linen at the other. It's the full compliment to cover both extremes I'm trying to avoid. In general though, I do prefer more substantial fabrics over delicate ones.

    Your suggestions are most appreciated.

    As far as existing stuff, I've taken a little time today to assemble a few fits. It's interesting to note that when you document something like this, and then examine the results, how much it can suck. I should point out that my inability to dress myself may be surpassed only by my inability to photograph these attempts. I welcome commentary and advice. The evidence (click pics for larger format, if you dare):

    Zegna blazer. Note the boxy, heavily padded shoulders. The trous I believe fill the mid grey flannel part of the program and I'm pretty happy with them.

    [​IMG]

    Same look, subbing Isaia suit coat for odd jacket.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Full Isaia suit. Little too full cut for me?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sartorio flannel suit, dark grey w/ brown chalk stripes. Strong, roped shoulders, but I kinda like it, and think it fits pretty well. Pissed the pics suck so bad.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The trousers in midgray flannel are definitely keepers.

    The sartorio looks like a good suit (though blue shirt and a different tie would've been infinitely better...I know we're not doing this here, but I'm just sayin')

    Not a fan of the Isaia, but that's just because I dislike patterned suits that don't have the gumption to be properly loud. The cut doesn't seem great for you, but you might want someone else to chime in here. I will say that it doesn't work as an odd jacket. Pattern is that of a suit; if it were a louder, fancy windowpane, then it might be more odd jacket-y.

    The Zegna doesn't seem awful for what it is. But there is very little about that which suggests "blazer." I'd definitely replace that with something either with patch pockets or of rougher fabric.

    ---------

    For the summer blazer, either linen, a linen blend, or something with a very open weave wool. Like this:
    http://www.howardyount.com/collections/jackets-suits/products/summer-blazer-open-weave-white-buttons
    [​IMG]

    Your NMWA I is a good call for what you need.
    http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...wn-gun-check-virgin-wool-sport-coat-2118.html
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
  10. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    They look very nice. This is what I meant when I posted shits with sublte design. [​IMG]
     
  11. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Thanks. I didn't really know any better but I always had it in my head that heavier weight pants should have a cuff so I went with 2" but then I was second guessing it a bit and got nervous I ruined the new suit. I only have cuffs on a few of my pants at the moment but I like them, it breaks it up a bit.
    x2 I like those shirts!

    So I dragged my wife with me while I tried on some SC's at Suit Supply. I only had intentions of trying them on but I was a good hubby on Valentines day and she treated me to a little gift. Plain Blue Havana unstructured. Very lightweight, 100% wool.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    The blue shirt + different tie is definitely the thing for the Sartorio. Am working on getting the blue shirt fit down. Have tried Inglese and Mazz. from NMWA recently, but sizing an issue for both (the white shirt in pics is a Mazz, and seems to be close enough, sleeve length aside. Also have it in the blue royal oxford but in a larger/too large size). Hearing good things about the Kamakura shirts, but trying to figure out sizing seems to require a special skill set, or some trial and error, the latter which gets a bit tedious.

    I guess I kind of agree about the Isaia being neither fish nor fowl, which is why I'd like to get into a plain navy suit.

    Not seeing the Zegna has patch pockets really speaks volumes about my photog skills I guess...To be honest I had trouble trying to discern between the Zegna & the Isaia pics myself, shit was so blurry. It also has a bit of texture in the weave, not sure what you'd call it, but if you can't see the patch pockets, fuhget about the fabric!

    Thanks for suggesting the trous. Will look into these. Some of the Rotas I saw on NMWA also look nice, but out of my size. I have some great Panta's I've never been able to fit into, but still holding on to: a light grey melange and a nice medium brown. Lost some weight since I bought them, still a ways away. Not sure if it's time to cut my losses, or redouble my efforts to fit into them, but shit, it's been like 3 years...
     
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  14. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Unfortunately my personal finances are on self needed lockdown. Why I'm even inquiring about spoos jacket is beyond me.
     
  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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