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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I've also seen it done both ways and I don't think there is a "correct". When I do the job myself I sew them closed.
     
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  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Keep in mind:

    It was actually only the once the person commented. And the person commenting routinely wears polyester ties. He thinks they are wonderful since they are easy to care for? So his comments ("Those are wide lapels, ______") should be taken with a grain of salt.

    And that not everyone's goal is to wear things that go unnoticed. That goal pretty much goes at the window as soon as we don a pocket square. Still, I go 3.5 for Kent's stuff now (though I may get a 4.25 in the future).

    I, too, wish that there was something in between the two sizes.
     
  3. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    its a relative thing. If a guy is a 36/46 with wide lapels, yeah it might look weird - but if a guy is a 42/52 it'll look much more in proportion
     
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  4. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    If your jacket size iz 46, then it is normal.
     
  5. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Hmm. I'm short, wear a 38, and went with wide (4.25 inch) lapels. My understanding was the Kent was now doing wide lapels with the "standard" gorge that came with the trial suit jacket. I have two other jackets with lapels around that size, and I think it works, to be honest, though I would probably prefer an even 4 inches.
     
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  6. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    First. Clearly. More versatile.

    @GuP
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
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  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Granted. And obviously proportion matters. However 46 is significantly larger than average. Larger than average lapels would not look out of place. As for someone who wears a 38, 4.25 does not look good. That, of course, is a personal opinion. FWIW, I wear between a 40 and a 42 (U.S.). 3.75 would be my max. And, back to the original question, would look optimal on Tohm IMO.
     
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  9. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    46 is pretty normal if you're from Serbia, and in Long size, of course :)

    I do d that lapel appearance has a lot to do with shape (convex vs concave), button placements, shoulder shape and construction etc. It really is the part of jacket I find most prone to visual tricks, so it is hard to say one width works best for one jacket size...

    What I find strange is that all (known to me) RTW makers put one width no matter the jacket size. Is this correct observation?
     
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  10. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    The only lapels I don't have, or like, are super-skinny ones. Imo, width of lapel is less driven by fashion (e.g. those crazy aircraft runways favored by Nutter or early RL) than by personal taste. I think of it as a bit like pleat or no-pleat, cuff or no-cuff i.e. largely a matter of personal preference unconnected with trends.

    I've just been flicking thru Dressing the Man, and if Flusser's pics are representative, lapel real estate is if anything remarkably consistent from the '30s to the '90s. Doesn't vary as nearly as much, and is less cyclical than buttoning points or gorge placement. At a guess, I'd say the average for SB is 3"-5" and for DB 4"-6".

    Having said that, the lapels on my last couple of jackets have been pitched at the mean. It's about being proportionate too, as u say.

    In top pic just too wide for Foo's shoulders imo Bottom looks great.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]



    4.25" ^^^^^ 3.5" ^^^^^^
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
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  11. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    lol Funny you should say that. I've been to Serbia and you are right. Of course, it doesn't help that they consistently wear oversized jackets!
     
  12. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    Hahaha. When have you been? I am myself now expat in Canada.

    It seams lately even we embrased the fashion of wearing jackets at least one size smaller :)
     
  13. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    If I see another pair of suede on this forum, I am gonna go to McDonald's and have a whopper!
     
  14. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    See, in these pictures of Pliny (not Foo) I'd say he looks more proportional with the wider lapels, and he wears a size smaller than I do (40 vs 42). Although, it also appears he has more sloping shoulders compared to my very-square, according to Proper Cloth, shoulders. Ah, decisions. I should just forget paying any bills and buy two suits, one with each lapel width.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  15. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    What is the word on Carlos Santos shoes in terms of quality?
     
  16. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    I am actively hunting for suede chukkas :hide:
     
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Loake Kempton or CJ Tetbury gogo join us!
     
  18. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Way back in 2009. I was in the southwest, just small rural towns as well as several places in Kosovo and Macedonia. Loved my time there but Balkans people have a funny sense of style. Which is perfectly ok because they have foods like Ajver. I still eat that on toast to this day.
     
  19. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Congrats on your move to Canada BTW.
     
  20. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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