Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys. I was honestly about to stick them in the mail today when I saw your responses. Instead, I am breaking them in today! Tieless blue OCBD, Tweed jacket, and tan cords. I will just look for #8 shell gunboats or something to complement them.

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    They are easily the best fitting shoes I own. I think I will be looking for more from HW, especially in the same last.

    In other news, KOPPED:

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    The lining is removable and it is flannel so it covers the F/W area of my wardrobe that I am missing. Plus, Yoox has a good return policy if I don't like it. I will post fit pics for review once it comes in!

    Additionally, my flannel suit arrived yesterday. It is GORGEOUS. It will need sleeves lengthened and pants hemmed up. It could maybe use a bit of waist suppression but I am undecided. I hope there is enough fabric to make a decent cuff out of. If not, is a faux cuff acceptable or should I just go cuffless on them?

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    Last edited: Feb 15, 2014


  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Agree with everyone else that I'd rather have those boots than the bluchers. I'd wear those with jeans on the weekend and with slacks and a jacket during the week.
     


  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Apologies for lack of spoilers; on iPad and it's acting wonky. Anyway, I'd consider changing out the buttons on the navy jacket, and cuffs for the suit.
     


  4. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    L2br

    You did well there. Fortuitous on the shoes. Wish we all had such luck!
     


  5. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  6. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I was admiring that navy jacket; unfortunately it is sold out in my size. I do not have the staples down; a mediocre Zegna blazer is all I have at the moment (perhaps some ill-fitting pics will ensue). I would dearly love to replace it with something better fitting/in a nicer fabric, but don't know where to turn. I assume NMWA will be restocking a navy jacket, though possibly not this one. Other suggestions?

    Once the navy/solid blue deal is done though, what is the next logical step, in terms of color and pattern? I suppose browns and blues are considered more versatile than green? I understand these are pretty fundamental/101 questions, but I'm deferring to members of the council here who seem to have a pretty good handle on the basics.
     


  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Once you have your navy blazer / odd jacket needs taken care of, I'd get something in tweed (a nice brown herringbone is probably ideal). Once you have your navy blazer and this tweed jacket, you can start to pick up some more interesting things that you might only wear twice a month or so. At some point depending on where you live, you'll also want to consider odd jackets for summer. A gun check pattern is also fairly classic and can be a nice option.

    Below is a photo of my F/W odd jacket collection. Apologies for mediocre picture quality but you get the idea (Left to Right - DB navy blazer with silver buttons, SB navy blazer with brass buttons, green corduroy, black and white cashmere houndstooth, grey herringbone cashmere wool blend, beige herringbone tweed with light blue and lilac in the over check, gun check tweed, brown herringbone tweed).

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  8. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    What trousers do you wear some of those lighter SC's over? Specifically the B&W houndstooth and beige herringbone w/light blue over check?

    My eye and mind is so set on always being darker up top but lighter colored SC's catch my eye and I never quite know what I'd do with them.
     


  9. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Herringbone, riiight, makes sense. Frankly, I won't be wearing anything more than twice a month, if even once a month. To reiterate from an earlier post, I am only in need of a few outfits-- suits, sportcoats--for occasional events and nights on the town. Therefore I would like to assemble a few very nice outfits composed of classic components with a fair degree of versatility. Quality over quantity, blah blah. I understand it's an atypical situation around here.
     


  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    The beige herringbone is a bit darker IRL than it appears in the picture. It can work with grey flannels as well as lighter tan moleskins or cavalry twill trousers. I generally wear the black and white houndstooth with lighter grey flannel trousers. That one is an interesting animal since half of the jacket is darker than any trouser I own but the other half clearly is not. I think that gives a bit more license with the whole jackets should be darker than trousers thing.

    In summer I own a cream cotton / linen blend odd jacket that will almost always have darker trousers. I find light grey fresco to be a good pairing.
     


  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Very Nice ties
     


  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ajl, how many suits and how many jackets are you thinking of getting? Are you thinking year round and would prefer to avoid seasonal numbers?
     


  13. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i do not dislike them, i just do not like them as much as the shoes JR posted. :)


    imho the only dress pants that should not have cuffs are tux pants. especially for a man of your height.

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    l2b, those boots are excellent.
     


  14. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I'm thinking maybe a couple suits--a solid navy/dark blue similar to NMWA's birdseye number, and a solid medium or lighter grey--and a small handful of odd jackets. Would prefer year round, just to keep the numbers down, though I already have a heavy flannel suit, a dark grey with brown chalk stripe. Also have a greyish-blue Isaia suit w/ light blue window pane. Priorities would be replacing mediocre Zegna blazer, and then possibly picking up a versatile patterned jacket. Navy jacket I could see being the one area where I wouldn't mind a few weights/varieties. I'd also have to replace ill or non-fitting trous and shirts. Basically an overhaul I guess. Must determine what should stay and what should go.
     


  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @AJL, if you are going to get a couple of suits, a solid navy and a solid grey are the best choices. I'd get something that you can wear for most of the year. A navy blazer that errs on the side of F/W but you can still wear for most of the year should be a top priority, as should a nice tweed odd jacket for F/W. After that, I'd consider finding something summer appropriate that you like (could be a linen odd jacket, could be seersucker). A summer weight navy (or slightly lighter than navy) blazer would also be good as would one additional F/W odd jacket. I think that 3 F/W odd jackets and 2 summer odd jackets is a decent collection.

    If you consider a seersucker odd jacket, I'd get the full suit as you can wear them as separates and the trousers can work with a summer weight navy blazer.
     


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