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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    In my experience is not a huge deal. I'd just get them all canvassed unless you specifically like otherwise.
     
  2. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Funny you should ask, Iso, since I'm wearing a new green wool/silk "grenadine" with brown tweed today (apologies for the hastily composed photo):
    [​IMG]

    I think a green grenadine pairs just fine with both navy and grey, but it's not my favorite option for either. With brown, though, it's perfect.
     
    3 people like this.
  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    It's ok. I was just teasing although looking back, it definitely didn't appear that way. Sorry about that. I'm not very serious at all on here and I respect Claghorn's opinion as well :cheers:

    Regarding your canvassing question I think it just comes down to how much shape you want your suit to have. Personally, I'd want to go at least half-canvassed and then decide if I want unlined or quarter lined.

    Depending on your tolerance for heat, even some of the heavier Irish linens are fine for summer suits and I think they make up very well. While I understand that wrinkles add character to linen, so to speak, I think there's a point where the wrinkles become a problem. Heavier Irish linens help to negate that issue.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  4. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    Interesting, I hadn't thought of Irish linen. To avoid the wrinkling problem, I'm focusing on linen-wool blends instead of pure linen. I'm not sure if KW offers Irish Linen, they probably do and I just struggle to read the swatches.

    I originally wanted a patterned dark blue suit that could be broken up, but now that I'm looking over some of these new fabric swatches, I'm leaning more towards solid brown or solid navy (both wool/silk/linen mixes). I posted a picture of the fabrics earlier, but here is the link again

    https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1620/24663702900_1637ce4f98_k.jpg

    310305 and 310310 specifically, they're are close to each other in the very first row. (Also both Claghorn recommended.)

    Maybe I'm rushing into patterns since I have only one navy suit and one dark blue jacket. All of these fabrics we are now talking about are a small, but not inconsequential, price increase from the hop sacks I originally posted, but if there is strong agreement on the boards that I would be better served by one of these slightly more expensive fabrics, that won't hold me back.
     
  5. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Sorry, I think I missed the part where it looks like you're committing to using Kent Wang. In that case you can disregard my Irish linen comments since I don't believe he stocks any of those fabrics. I was referring to W. Bill and some others with that line of thought ...

    I think both recommendations are good ones. I own a couple wool/silk/linen make ups and they are jackets I really enjoy.

    I'm assuming your current navy suit is a fall/winter one? If that's the case, I think I'd choose to get a navy spring/summer one before branching out.

    With the wool/silk/linen make up, you could get patch pockets and be able to use the jacket separately since the fabric has enough texture to it.

    I think my above sentence is gravitating toward Manton's BlazerSuit thread so I'll stop there to avoid being sued.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    You can do Irish linen with KW. He accepts CMT.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    This is really, really helpful. My one navy suit is a "4-season" (but nothing is truly 4-season in Kentucky) from SuSu. Now that I'm being a bit more critical of my current wardrobe (and with the feedback I've received from you, Clags, Iso, Caustic, and others) I'll definitely get either the brown or navy solid in a linen blend with patch pockets.

    My current favorite jacket is a brown cashmere blend I'd like to have a summer alternative to, but navy seems to be the default color when in doubt. As always, more feedback is welcome, but I think I have it narrowed down to those two choices.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    My awesometer just redlined.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    By the by, just visited the Suit Supply store in Chicago and probably 2/3 of their models fit me in the shoulder better than any other off the rack brand I've seen. Came away with a Sienna suit. Will definitely be returning. Also, glad I went to the store before ordering anything. Based on their size-o-meter I am a 40R, but 42R clearly fits me better in most cuts.
     
  10. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Yeah - I'm ambivalent towards SuitSupply but what holds true is that the sizing guide on their website is not very reliable at all.
     
  11. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    A verbatim excerpt from an actual recent online conversation with one of Suit Supply’s reps:

    Ac: “Which of your fits” will best compensate for shoulder slope?”
    SS: “Whichever one has the most shoulder padding.”

    Full transcript forthcoming in Duh: The International Journal of Self-Evident Propositions

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  12. JAEBH

    JAEBH Active Member

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    Help a newbie out please. Getting away from suits everyday for work, and can get away with sportcoat trouser options. So far have 2 navy sport oats (rlbl & susu) and several black fleece and incotex pants in varying shades of light to darker mid gray.. Is brown a good logical choice for a 3rd jacket option? Found this mid/dark brown canali kei in my size. If so what pant/shirt combos does this go with?

    {\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252
    {\fonttbl}
    {\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;}
    }
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Pfff, yeah! Clags?
     
  14. jssdc

    jssdc Senior member

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    I have several Fresco suits that I bought when I lived in the Middle East (so essentially summer suits) and they're all fully canvassed. I think that the half lining makes as much of an impact on wearability in the heat as canvass. And half canvass may even be worse than full, since the non-canvassed area would have a fusible.

    For what you're looking for have you considered Fresco 0520?
     
    2 people like this.
  15. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Meh, what kind of wood flooring are you going to go with?
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  16. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member

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    Seconded.
     
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    You mean THIRDED, I was the firster. [​IMG]
     
  18. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Speaking of Tom Ford, noticed that Jon Oliver seemed to be wearing a TF suit in the latest episode. Look at the shoulders, peak lapels, and diagonal hole on the lapel

    Strange choice to be wearing a decadant $4k suit when he has many populist rants

     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  19. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    [​IMG] Would you prefer he does the show in a t shirt and sneakers?
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  20. The Noodles

    The Noodles Senior member

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    Who knows, rosewood? Maple? It will be up to the Mrs.

    F### Jon Oliver. What's a freaking brit running an American tv show with a very annoying brit accent, and I luv brit accent!

    Go Team Coco and Connan!
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016

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