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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. CaptainTohm

    CaptainTohm Senior member

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    Noodlers, I figure I'll get a more diverse and experienced set of opinions here than in the Proper Cloth thread.

    I got my newest fit and and have washed it twice. It fits perfect in the midsection when I'm standing, but I'm not sold when I sit down. What do you think, half an inch too tight, or just right for a very slim fit?

    [​IMG]

    That's me sitting up straight and sticking out my gut.

    [​IMG]

    That bulge at the bottom is what concerns me.

    [​IMG]

    And that's me slouching down while sticking my gut out.

    Am I being paranoid? Or do I need to let it out a tad?

    Here's a full standing fit pic.

    [​IMG]

    Sorry for all the pictures of me sticking my gut out as far as possible!
     
  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  3. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    It's not only with Americans, organized religions are governed by uneducated priests everywhere. This gives room to so many stupid self-help, don't-worry-be-happy type of movements, that lack basic philosophical foundation.
    Original Bible was translated from Greek, it was compiled and written in Alexandria (probably), in the time when Stoicism was the order of the day.
    Unfortunately, I was never much exposed to Eastern (Asian) way of life or belief system, so can not fully relate. But then again, I'm still young [​IMG]
     
  4. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    The Name of the Rose, anyone?
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Id vote again for the Havana silk/wool for sure.
     
  8. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    The havana sc looks almost too casual... like a knit.

    I'd say those two styles are very different.

    The suit jacket might work as an SC with different buttons, though the fabric would make this hard.

     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Because it is. And it is awesome.

    @gdl203, please elaborate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
    2 people like this.
  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Might as well call it a cardigan with lapels [​IMG]
    How would you wear it?
     
  11. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    With an OCBD, gray flannel pants, and suede chukkas. Will be amazing. Classic yet distinctive.

    Bro's, ya'll needs to open your minds eye a little.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The naming of an object doesn't dictate its use (objectively).

    That being said, I name that (and all other such hybrids) the Cardicoat.

    It probably has a place in the 15-20th jacket range for most people (of those who will own more than a dozen jackets). 10-15th for some. 5-10th for folks like Tira (though I can't see the dude himself donning it).
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
  13. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Tbh it looks really cool to me. Def fits different purpose than most jackets but it overlaps in the casual spot I think.

    Also Clags that's really cool (academic stuff we were talking about before) I'd say more but I'm working atm.

    I'm going to bug you about Seoul if I ever go though, and use this common link as excuse.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
    2 people like this.
  14. vidyut

    vidyut Member

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    Pasting this here on the advice of TM79 (original thread here).
    Thank you all in advance for your advice.

    After about 9 years working for a large hedge fund, I quit my job last year to start something of my own. I had to sit out a year for some legal reasons (with my former employer) and that year is due to end in a couple months (I'll be able to start work in Apr).

    I am looking to create a "consistent" dressing format for me. At my previous place, my consistent clothing was dark wool slacks and a white (Banana Republic Tailored Slim Fit, size M - fit me very well except perhaps the sleeves could be 0.25-0.5 in shorter than they were). It worked for me and I did not have time to spend on choosing clothes - so I would simply go online and buy a bunch of shirts or slacks at a time, wear them till they would start losing the "new" feel and then repeat.

    Right now I have time to think - I won't once I start working again. So I am thinking of changing over to wearing a suit every day. My preferences are:

    Preferences
    0. Once I am wearing what I am wearing, I need it to recede in the background. When I am working I do not want to be adjusting my suspender/belt, worrying about whether my shirt is slipping out or not, whether I am sitting on my pants right or not - nothing of the sort. I prefer not wearing a tie. I own a few Ascot ties that I have worn (inside open collars) on occasion with suits. I find closed collars uncomfortable, but maybe I just have been doing something wrong.

    1. I need to be able to dress for work without thinking too much about what I am wearing. Whatever I go with, I will plan to set up a rotation and follow it blindly (unless there are special occasions).

    2. It needs to look good - it needs to fit me well. I will much prefer sticking to slacks-and-shirt that work well rather than an ill-fitting suit. I don't care for branding at all, I do care for quality.

    3. It should be good value for money. The fact that I can afford fairly high end stuff doesn't translate to me actually spending on it. I am not brand conscious at all.

    Build
    I am 5ft10in, and I weigh in at 180lbs. I have muscular shoulders, and a bit of belly/love-handle fat (usually choose a size 30 to 32 in trousers, but I realize that my actual waistsize in inches is perhaps higher because of the way trousers are marked) that I am working to get rid of. I usually fit in a 38R suit. I stand and sit tall, and I tend to move fairly actively (even though my day involves a lot of work on the computer, I walk around and move a lot - I do a fair bit of my work standing).

    Tentative plan
    1. Three piece suits. Primarily to (1) avoid having to worry about the shirt coming slightly untucked at the waist (2) hide suspenders out of view (see below). But also to look a bit different and dressier than usual. I am happy to abandon this idea (and stick to more conventional two piece suits) if my assumptions are incorrect.

    2. Suspenders rather than belts - again with a view to not have the shirt pinched in at the waist.

    3. 5 suits to start with and depending on what works buy 5-10 more over the year. I own 3 suits right now - two from Zegna and one from Hugo Boss. They were all bought on heavy discount from either Saks Fifth Ave or Bloomingdales. I don't think any of them was more than USD2k, all in price. None of them get much use. I like the fit of the Zegna suits much better than the Hugo Boss suit, and so the latter has perhaps been work exactly once. I am not going to count these suits - for that reason.

    4. I don't want to spend more than around USD1.5K per suit - including perhaps an extra pair of trousers. I need to know that I am getting good value for my money.

    I request your suggestions!
    1. What are your thoughts about my plan above? Does it sound insane to the extent that I should simply stick to my usual slacks-and-shirt? Indeed that is what most people in the industry wear.

    2. In case the plan makes sense, does my budget make sense? What is a reasonable budget for an everyday suit?

    3. Where should I get the initial 5 suits from? I am lucky in that I live in NYC - practically everyone has a shop here that I can easily visit. I have spent the last day researching various varieties of bespoke/made-to-measure/etc. options on the internet and the short summary of what I have been able to learn is that it is a competitive and dirty industry (and the fact that the work starts only after you give up the money doesn't bode well for the experience, in my view). On the one hand everyone touts Martin Greenfield - they seem to run an assembly line operation and still charge fairly expensive prices. I am happy to buy off-the-rack suits if they have long-term quality and fit well. I tend to think I am a very conventional body type and fit easily, but I might be completely off about how the suits I have already really fit.
    I would much prefer a no-BS small no-name shop - OTR or tailor - that fits me well than a more highbrow concern where I would worry about being ripped off.
     
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    That will be my 3rd navy SC, 2nd if you consider that one of the 3 I rarely wear. And it will be well worth it.
     
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Really liking this Sozzi red/grey knit tie from Sozzi/Skoak

    yea or nay

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
    3 people like this.
  17. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    @vidyut, there are people a lot more experienced here than me that will give you much better feedback, but for what it's worth:

    I'd drop the idea of a 3 piece if you don't plan on wearing a tie.

    Suspenders are good. Stick with that.

    As far as brand and vAlue proposition, I'd go Kent Wang MTM with Suit Supply as a second choice. KW offer great construction and materials, with an eye toward modern style and great quality at a very reasonable price. And you can get your whole kit there from suits to ahirts, ties, squares, suspenders, aocks, and shoes, if you are so inclined. They are an online mtm shop, but have great feedback, and if their standard sizes fit you well off the rack, no need to go mtm.

    Hope this helps, and good luck on your new venture!
     
    3 people like this.
  18. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I am with you on this. :fistbump:
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks comfy as hell.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    I had a question of my own: I'm looking fir a pretty basic tutorial on suiting and jacketing wool. What weights for what seasons. Worsted vs woolens. That sort of stuff. Did a little searching on the site and google, but it was hard because I wasn't even sure whT I was looking for. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.
     

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