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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    Making things simpler for simple folk.
     
  2. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    They're really pretty good.

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  3. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

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    Thank you for taking the time to go through all of that, but my "bottom line it for me" was a joke; he was pretty blunt about damn near everything being a disaster on that website.
     
  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    And taking other images of other tailors or from other makers without acknowledgement?

    Regardless, the only example of his work I've seen is the line picture on his website, a jacket which is disastrous (which has nothing to do with the website).

    All I'm suggesting is that until some experienced eyes (yours, if you are experienced, or someone else's) can speak to the quality of this guy's work, I'd ease up off the gas pedal.

    Though I don't know, maybe you were joking about going to this guy for several commissions?
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

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    Yeah, that was a joke as well. Sorry I didn't make that more obvious.

    Using a photo of another tailor and their work is pretty terrible, and if he replies to my e-mail, I plan to ask him about that photo in as non-threatening a manner as I can. If I do decide to investigate further (which I am far less enthusiastic about today than when I was first referred to him), I will try to find somebody knowledgeable to come along. Any south Florida SFers available for an afternoon?

    Oh, and the only SuSu models that I liked (although I haven't tried them all by any means) were the York and Hartford cuts, and I think I remembered reading that their MTM is based off a Napoli or something like that.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2015
  6. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    The latest pic on their Instagram comes from here: http://www.businessinsider.com/things-a-tailor-can-and-cant-do-2015-4/
    All the other pics look like they've been plucked from various ads. Also, this: http://www.yellowpages.com/user/253563225/reviews
    @flvinny521 I'd look elsewhere if I were you.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

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    Sounds like when the time comes, I'll have to find a decent traveling tailor in a nearby city and hop on a plane. Thanks for pointing out all the red flags, gentlemen.
     
  8. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Gentlemen: after you've buckled a belt, should you tuck the free end through the first belt loop on your trousers? Or is that a sartorial faux pas?
     
  9. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Serious.

    I'm a menswear nerd, remember.
     
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  11. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    yes. No
     
  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I'm going one more round with KW MTM and looking for any suggestions on tweaks. Here was my first attempt with standard lapel. I had a tailor clean it up afterwards by slimming it a little more along the back:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2015
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Yes, you should.
     
  14. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Here is the second go-around with wide lapels. I added to the length at Kent's suggestion, lowered the buttoning point slightly and otherwise left it alone. I did not have the tailor clean this one up:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2015
  15. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    As an FYI:

    1. I've asked KW for advice on cleaning up the pants. My first go around with Luxire looked like this, but their modifications cleaned up my second pair very nicely. I'm hopeful KW can do the same.

    2. I'm not sure what is going on with the wrinkles behind my shoulders in the picture. I may have my arms in a strange position as my daughter was anxious to get the pictures over with and snapping them as soon as I turned around. I've looked in the mirror and only see very minor wrinkling behind my shoulders.

    3. I find the navy one slightly too tight and the gray one slightly too loose, so likely need to find a happy medium. Throw a pocket square and a cell phone in the navy jacket and I'm busting at the seams whereas the gray one accommodates both much easier.
     
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @New Shoes1 I prefer the navy one over the grey one. It is better proportioned and looks a lot cleaner. The trousers are a bit too long for my taste and yes, the lapels could be a bit wider. And a tad more room 'round the chest.
    The grey one is more problematic, IMO. Though you tell us that the grey one is roomier, the jacket seems to be too tight in the chest (bowing lapels and overlapping quarters, may also be a balance issue). And the buttoning point a bit too high (higher than the navy one?)
    The trousers are cut too full compared too the jacket, which makes you look heavier than you are. The sleeves are a lot messier too, perhaps something off with sleeve pitch? A pic from the side would help.
    If I were you, I'd take the navy one as a starting point. But with wider lapels and a bit more room in the chest.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    It's a sartorial faux pas to wear belts.
     
  18. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Something is wrong with the pitch of the sleeve (see the wrinkling of the back of the sleeves on the grey)
     
  19. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Thanks @EliodA . A few thoughts:

    - The navy and gray are the same size in the chest with no modifications. The lapels for both do bow somewhat, but the navy is generally worse than the gray in this regard. I had a tailor slim the navy one in the back somewhat.

    - The quarters of the navy jacket are more open because of the scissor effect in being slightly too tight. I agree that I do not like how closed the quarters on the gray look. Combined with the fact the gray jacket is 1 cm longer, it is not the most flattering. I may take 0.5 cm off the length to try and get back more to the navy's length. I will also see about slimming the next one a little bit to make it closer to the navy.

    - The gray buttoning point is indeed slightly lower, but I suspect the longer length makes it look higher in comparison.

    - The pants are indeed full, but that is more a function of my large thighs and calves than a stylistic preference. In my pants with a slimmer profile, they are fine standing up but feel like they are about to burst in the thighs when I sit down. I have moved towards a fuller cut in order to not worry about bursting at the seams when I sit down. That said, I may see if I can slim them a small amount along with other modifications to clean up the lines.

    - I think the sleeve wrinkling is a result of how I was moving at the time of the picture as I do not see it in the mirror. Below is a side shot from the same day. It also shows the balance issue and how my protruding chest makes a good fit challenging at times.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Now there's a StyFo factoid if ever I saw one.
     
    1 person likes this.

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