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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    OK your work is CBD.

    What do wear when you're off the clock?
     


  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Shiny and possibly too short.

    As far as length, your height is secondary to your torso length. Many Asians have longer torsos and shorter legs...hence the popularity of shorter jackets (elongating the legs) over here. It isn't a good look.

    Just find a jacket the reaches to the bottom of your ass. Better too long than too short. Measure from the bottom of the collar (so the seam there) to the bottom of the jacket. That's your jacket length. Anyone tries to sell you a jacket shorter than that, you tell him to go fuck himself.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    For only 25% I would not kop. You could get a Kiton for that price in Shop The Finest. Or you can buy a ticket to LA to visit STF and still buy a Borrelli suit. Winner situation. :D
     


  5. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    I, the Ftard, come back to the same answer time and time again.

    BESPOKE* (with good guidance)

    I feel like a kid with a lighter and lighter fluid in my hand. Someone should just take away my money so I don't do anything stupid.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  6. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    JRD is good. I was thinking the same thing. That's a Torino.

    Then I said to myself, wow this looks good, then I realized it's already in my effing closet! [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    I can show you some smart investments with attractive returns. :D

    Haha just kidding. Actually I don't know if you being in the US can invest in this solutions in pesos, that would be good and smart, if you ask me.
     


  8. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    For casual? Just jeans and these mundane...shirts.

    [​IMG]
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Just do it man. You can articulate that you want a grey suit with a low button stance/long front, can't you? It will certainly be cheaper and better fitting than a Zegna. Get clags to hold your hand if you do BNTailor. I don't see how you could regret getting a conservative fabric suit.



    Also, WW Chan's house cut is sort of reminiscent of the Mila fit.

    http://www.wwchan.com/fx/AccHouseStyle.html#app=1916&2c65-selectedIndex=0
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

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    ^ Rudals, your work wardrobe is more important at the moment but at some point you should look into some nicer things to wear when you are off the clock. There's a big gap between jeans with a casual shirt and a suit that needs to be dealt with in your wardrobe. If you have to wear a suit 5 days a week, however, you do eventually need to get a few more suits.
     


  11. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Rudlas, I do not do cm's, I am AMURICAN!!!

    that being said, you seemed to be at least my height, 5'10. jacket length really depends on body type, but id guess you would do well with about a 30.5 - 31, with 30 and 31.5 also possibly working.
     


  12. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Distinguished Member

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  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    I put Rudals at 5'10 or 5'11. He was a bit taller than me (178cm).

    Rudals, what exactly are your thoughts on SS mtm? I know that you are a perfectionist; you come from a people who built an exact replica of the archery field in London, complete with announcers announcing in English, just so their archery team could practice for the 2012 Olympics. I do think, regardless of what anyone else here says, that you'll eventually be looking into bespoke. This isn't true for everyone, but I do think this is true for you. You aren't ready yet, though with the right guidance, you would get a result you'd be quite happy with.

    The best way to get yourself ready is to dip your toe in.

    So, what are your thoughts on SS mtm? Think of this suit as your practice field.
     


  14. Rudals

    Rudals Distinguished Member

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    My thoughts on SS mtm? I really can't say BUT I don't want to blow money on something average. I say that with no disrespect and I am only basing it off of their prices.
    If I am shelling out $3k~$4k on a RTW suit that is ill fitting, why not try bespoke?

    If I walked into Mr. Fields' tomorrow, how bad of a suit do you think I will walk out with 3 months later?
    I doubt that they will be totally clueless as to what to do with me.
    They have the experience of working with people and I think they will ask the right questions to figure out what I want.
    If I realize that I am not ready because I can't do my part in helping them figure out what kind of suit I want, then I'll just walk out and go back to the drawing board.
    I think going in for just a consultation will not hurt a bit.

    What do I want though? It is bespoke and they'll make based on what I say.
    - Wide notch lapels or peak lapels
    - Double vent
    - Low button stance
    - 2 button jacket
    - Top quality fabric but mid Supers (Avoid shine)
    - 100% wool
    - Trim fit

    I am very certain I haven't even scratched the surface with what I specified above but I think it is worth a try at Mr. Fields'.

    And for goodness sake's, give me 1 more inch so I can say that I am 6 ft tall! I measure myself every time I walk out of 7-11 against the height ruler on their doors because that's very accurate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    How much is the SS mtm? You should be concerned with value for dollar when you are talking about "blow[ing] money on something average." I own nothing from SS, but I understand that it's a pretty solid value. Cutting your teeth on SS mtm is more about the experience than it is about the final product (which I am willing to bet dollars to donuts you'll like more than any of your existing stuff). With that under your belt, you'll be a lot more calm and collected when you walk into Field's (and when you walk out three months later, you'll love that suit more than everything else in your wardrobe combined). I've hopped around four tailors trying to find the right one. I had kept one for about 5 jackets and a few suits before the most recent move (I want natural shoulders from now on), but I still got butterflies when picking out the fabric and getting measured for the first time by them.

    Visiting Fields may not be a bad idea. But before you go in, have you looked at any pictures of his work?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2014


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