1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

    Messages:
    797
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2014
    

    Very helpful, thanks. The batch for cappelli is all with F/W in mind, so I need to get the order in soon.

    The herringbone is the NMWA Formosa, I am having it made bespoke. I have a fitting today. It is much bluer irl, which I like. I am sure not a yard left though, I had no idea a tie took that much fabric! Learn something new every day.
     
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,964
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai

    Very much to my own benefit, as it so happens.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,242
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    Classic!

    FWIW, half of the Cappelli ties I own did not come out to spec. With customs and shipping to Italy (and duties on the return), I never bothered to get them fixed. C'est la vie. I enjoy looking at them in my closet, though.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    That's "lo vero stilo napolitano": the talent to brand sloppy workmanship and poor quality control as "the unique, individual character of traditional handwork" [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  5. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,964
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    As the proud current owner of the "ex-Noodles" Cappelli, I can say there's nothing sloppy about it at all. It's a very fine tie.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

    Messages:
    632
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2013
    Location:
    Toronto
    I didn't measure my 2 Hober's but the overall experience, and price, and quality has left me as a customer for life. At least for solids (I have 1 reppe and 1 Gren Fina) I don't feel a need to look anywhere else.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  7. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

    Messages:
    632
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2013
    Location:
    Toronto
    Double Post
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2015
  8. Cao Cao

    Cao Cao Senior member

    Messages:
    380
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2015
    Is it just me? Do I get so wound up on measurements because I am a numbers guy?!

    Glad @Coxsackie is enjoying the tie. I was not happy with his response either. He said, "What do you want me to do?! It is really not much variance."
     
  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,227
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Cao Cao, nearly everything handmade is going to have some allowance. I believe Hober explicitly advertises their margin of error on the website. Also keep in mind that when we are talking about 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch, there is possibility for measurement error.
     
    3 people like this.
  10. Cao Cao

    Cao Cao Senior member

    Messages:
    380
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2015
    Yes, there are a lot of factors that could affect how the final product comes out when a product is being handmade. I just was foolish to expect better. Never had problems with HOBERS' but Cappelli was not a pleasant experience.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2015
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,007
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    None of my Hobers vary that much. Which isn't to say there isn't a Hober out there that does. But (and this is second hand knowledge), David will hold onto a tie whose measurements are off and make another rather than send it out.

    This is the best response. Handmade and imperfect should cost the same as machinemade and perfect. If you are paying a premium, you should be getting handmade and perfect (or reasonably close to it...not 86%).
     
    2 people like this.
  12. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

    Messages:
    283
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2015
    Location:
    LDN-RVK-LOS
    No, sir. It is pretty important to me and i have gotten into heated exchanges with both my alterations tailor, one of my tailors and a vendor or two over pretty sizable differences.

    I endorse @Claghorn 's view that there should be very little margin of error (as close to perfect as possible) when paying for premium goods.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,858
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    86%?
     
  14. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,227
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Incidentally, Hober's allowance for error is 1/8 inch in width and 1/4 inch in length per their website. I have never measured any of my Hobers, but I've also never noticed anything that looks off in any of my 50+ ties. I doubt discovering something was 1/4 inch too long would stop me from enjoying a tie that I otherwise like and wear. This doesn't mean quality control with handmade goods is not important (it is), but how often does 1/4 of an inch in length or 1/8 of an inch in width in a tie covered by one's jacket have any real impact on how the tie looks and functions. Maybe a tiny bit re: the width if you have your jacket off, but that's it.
     
  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    This is my view. No Hober's yet for me, but I have a few Yellow Hook ties that seem (I have not measured, and have no compulsion to do so) to vary ever so slightly in terms of width and length.

    All in all, it causes zero consternation to me, and I love them all, and wear them without giving even the most fleeting of thoughts to width variation lol.
     
  16. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,242
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    Do you ever spend much time worrying about girth variation?
     
    2 people like this.
  17. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,858
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    He doesn't.

    She does.
     
    3 people like this.
  18. justridiculous

    justridiculous Senior member

    Messages:
    1,295
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2015
    Location:
    City of Angels
  19. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,242
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    Oh snap edmorel thumbed my post. Just got the pervert imprimatur [​IMG]
     
  20. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

    Messages:
    3,821
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2013
    Location:
    Austin
    I like the color just fine and if you are looking for something lighter, you could do worse than Brooks Brothers. Do you know what the structure is? I think a lot of the people in this thread tend to go either bespoke or custom MTM, so likely their opinions of OTR/RTW are less than favorable.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by