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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. I get not being a fan of open quarters, but separate issue from skirt flair.
     
  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Good points, good points. Got to get the taxonomy right. Did we ever agree on a better alternative to "quarters," though?

    Also, skirt "flair" would be a stylish tutu.
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Another thing worth considering with the whole Formosa discussion is the inevitable differences that come with sizing in RTW. Some of it is definitely a particular cut being more flattering than others, but there are other factors. I'm probably a true 39S, but really liked the fit of the 38 (well EU 48) when I tried it on. For me, it fits like a very softly tailored coat without any added drape. It's probably not what Formosa would make for me if I ordered Formosa bespoke, but I like it. Having done some exploration of coats with drape, I've found that I personally prefer a leaner chest.
     
  4. Academic2

    Academic2 Well-Known Member

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    I missed the part where we agreed that one is needed. I suspect it's an Americanism. I believe British tailors refer to the fronts (note plural), or at least they used to.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    And on a new topic, am I crazy for thinking about trying a pocket square made from white grenadine silk? It seems like something that could be interesting and unique, but I could also see it just being a disaster. Why reinvent the wheel and all that?
     
  6. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Don't do it, bro.

    That gets to the heart of the problem with the quarters. This is how the industry works. We reach a pleasant harmony of proportion, but then we get bored! Isn't there something we can do by poking and nudging the proportions? What if we opened this up a bit, here? Suddenly we have this formfactor that seems new and fresh. How stylish! This is it, we think. Then (as we are questioning now), that format seems stale and we go back to the drawing board. I realize that the industry would implode if we collectively decided to achieve harmony of proportion and flatline there, but we as consumers should hold steady. I, for one, would enjoy an uninterrupted 10 years of iterating on the same boring shit. I realize that most shoppers do not want this, though. :(

    Can someone dig up that chart that described a curve of pre-hype, hype, post-hype, backlash to the hype, etc.? It is remarkably apt and I think should be trotted out at least every 3 months and updated. Been pondering making a dedicated thread for that.
     
  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    ^ Hey. At least it's better than cream silk. I think...
     
  8. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Tbh, I'd rather take cream silk than grenadine hankie. At least the first resembles something other human beings have seem before.
     
  9. MrTRC

    MrTRC Well-Known Member

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    'Grenadine silk hank'? Not for me, but that i don't see why not. I recall when only solid Grenadines existed (at least widely accessible - and usually grossa i think). Now, you have Fina, Prometeo, Piccola, cotton/wool/cashmere grenadines, shantung, bourette, dotted and striped grenadines etc Heck, grenadine socks made from cotton lisle exists now.

    I say rock 'n' roll
     
  10. EFV

    EFV Well-Known Member

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    Cream silk is the most versatile PS you can find IMHO. I know a lot of posters will hate it because Foo was so positive about it, but I'm definitely with him on the cream silk PS though.
     
    4 people like this.
  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Was being a bit tongue in cheek. I actually think cream silk works with tweeds and earth tones in general. Not for worsteds and of course Foo's assertion that white linen pocket squares are suboptimal with white shirts is just wrong.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

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    I have two cream silks (with very unobtrusive patterns), another silk that has cream as a base color. And an oatmeal wool which functions great as winter's cream silk.
     
  13. Isolation

    Isolation Well-Known Member

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    I think cream silks are pretty versatile as well, you just want something softer than a white linen sometimes, especially with tweedy type things, but you want something similar in terms of not being too colorful, what with tweed patterns and all that.
     
  14. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

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    I just got a cream silk because it gives nice variety instead of using white
     
  15. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Well-Known Member

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    Cream
    Get on top
    Cream
    You will kop
    Cream
    Don't ever stop
    Cream
    Sha-boogie
     
    4 people like this.
  16. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Well-Known Member

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    It well might be the photos, posture, etc., but with that said, the skirt of the Jort seems to hug your hips, whereas the Formosa--without flaring--seems to have a bit more room and flow. The Jort is a cleaner cut overall, but the skirt seems like too much cleanliness, tredning toward stiffness. It takes some of the life out off the fabric and to my eye looks constraining rather than clean. A general response to a few pages of back and forth about Formosa. I think the idea of it being universally loved on SF is overstated. (The groupthinik-ish backlash is cute, though.) Some have liked it from the beginning, some haven't. Greg said at the outset that the suits and jackets represent the house style (presumably with his input), not a response to iGent taste. I don't have any reason to disbelieve him based on what I've seen of their non-NMWA work. The slightly lower buttoning point is part of that style. Some will like it, other won't. Some will see it as top-heavy. I instead view it--in combination with the shoulders and lapels--as lenthening the torso, giving the upper body a strong but approachable look, and generally placing the mid-point visually where it will make the wearer's legs look balanced but not too long or too short. But it also looks different on different wearers, and as usual, one has to factor in how many of the photos are taken. Of course it's fine to critique the style of Formosa or any other maker's work and the fit on any particular wearer, but readiing over the last few pages, it seemed to me that some of the critiques have implied that there's something "wrong" with the Formosa style and that people who wear and enjoy it are deluding themselves. There would be much less point to these forums if everyone liked the same things, and I appreciate the critiques of my own fits when well founded. I like the Formosa style and the way it looks on me, even if others might not. I think clearly separating critiques based personal preference from those based on objective factors (to the extent that they can be identified and expressed) from those based on history/social context, etc. make for better dialog. Oh, and cream squares are great with a variety of fits. I like one better than linen with a white shirt, except in the most formal contexts, though I dont know that it is better. ;) (Still ambivalent about cream trousers though Tweedy!)
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
  17. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    The SF hype cycle for all n00bs who have been here less than 6 years.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Kinda weak, really. You're still trying to be persuasive. :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2015
  19. EFV

    EFV Well-Known Member

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    Cash rules everything around me: CREAM, get the money.

    Dollar, dollar bill y'all.
     
    3 people like this.
  20. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    No, it's not. The problem with you is that you just don't want to understand.
     
    1 person likes this.

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