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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. dazedstate

    dazedstate Senior member

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    While true, what about additions such as hand sewn button holes and the like? Do they add anything other than craftsmanship?
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    So if they're still lined, the unlined tips are purely to show off the ancient thirst? [​IMG]
    Slip stitch was the term I was looking for, thanks.

    Aesthetics mostly, a hand made hole is better to look at (ahem...)
    Perhaps there's also some benefit durability wise, I wouldn't know TBH.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  3. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    To be clear, an unlined tie pretty much necessitates no tipping, in my understanding (I'm thinking 7-fold, etc.). Correct me if I'm wrong.

    I mean, when I get around to buying some Drake's madder ties I'll have to just accept the lack of tipping because of how good the ties are otherwise. But the more I wear my handrolled Macclesfield from Hober, the less I like it.
     
  4. dazedstate

    dazedstate Senior member

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    Playing devil's advocate mostly. I do love my hand roll untipped ties but I am annoyed sometimes of the fragility and added precaution necessary while handling.
     
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  5. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yeah well you can definitely see that the backs aren't white of the printed silks so extra SF street cred for not using the fabled ink jet fabrics that a certain Mr Cerruti has been known to peddle as vintage.

    You can also still make a very light lined but un-tipped tie with a 36oz printed silk or a light linen/silk that would be a lot heavier self-tipped. Of course it won't keep you cooler in summer but if everything else is light and airy no reason why a tie can't be either.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    There's a functional benefit for some tiny minority of people who actually would roll up their jacket sleeves rather than take off their jacket. Otherwise, I think they are more for show at this point. My general view is that I won't pay extra to have them done but if they are included in the price of a garment (like a MTM suit or sport coat), I like to have them. It's one of those things that used to have more of a function but stayed on as a piece of tradition after its functional purpose no longer applied. Who knows; perhaps one day we'll get non-working buttonholes on the bottom button of suit jackets, though I kind of hope this doesn't happen.
     
  7. dazedstate

    dazedstate Senior member

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    I understand the utility of functioning button holes (or the antiquated utility). I was more arguing hand sewn vs machine sewn. That goes for any button holes, not just the sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2015
  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not sure that Elio's Heavy and Fancy Silk Standard For Quality Ties was a universal thing. A hardy silk with a printed motif is neither cheap nor flimsy.

    I appreciate the craftsmanship of the rolled edge on ties and handkerchiefs, but the presence or absence of such would not, er, tip the scales of my purchasing decision. Self-tipped, untipped, contrast-tipped are likewise non-decisive factors for me. Design, materials, and the quality of the knot are really the only criteria.
     
    4 people like this.
  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    This, of course.

    The 'Heavy and Fancy Silk Standard For Quality Ties' was very likely not universal, though quite a common point of view back when I started dabbling in menswear, in the 1990s. But possibly that was just in reaction to those awful Hermes prints of the preceding decade...

    (Yes, I do sound like a grumpy old man today...)
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    On a completely unrelated note - any Noo Yawkers here? I'm going to be in NYC next week. Maybe we could do a bit of an SF meet-up for drinks or what-not.
     
  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    That's all right. I sound like a grumpy old man most days.
     
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  12. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Looking for combination advise. The jacket is silk/linen in medium tobacco brown.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I'm thinking darker colors (northern lights look).
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ I feel northern lights tends to work best with slightly lighter jackets. I think cream, tan and light grey would all look good. Really dark odd trousers just do not strike me as summery, which the jacket clearly is.
     
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  14. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    Light grey or white i think is the best way to pair that jacket up. If you want to be adventurous you could do a really light blue as well
     
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  15. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    This. I imagine Justin means shades off white here ala cream/ ecru/ stone etc. Sure, pure white ofc could work but the cleaning challenges for anyone without a butler is truly daunting (speaking as someone with a pair of pure white heavy linen which i only once or twice every summer for fear of incurring stains).
     
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Tan works. Or green.

    Go earthy
     
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  17. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tan trou, green tie

    ---

    Two shirts on the way from Luxire (I mentioned them about a month ago...I don't rush when there is no need to do so). Almost got them with button down collars. I got to the point in the process where I was talking to Luxire about the different types of BD collars. But I looked through a hundred or so archived images of outfits I like and found only three outfits with BD collars, so I opted to get spread for the two. Figured that I clearly would be happier with spread (as I archive images I like without any conscious thought to my preferences)
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    In the Luxire thread a few weeks ago, I posted the measurements for the three most common BD collars they had, and the type of fusing/interlining, if you're interested.
     
  19. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Off white trousers + light blue OCBD & mid brown loafers - so simple and yet so elegant.
     
    4 people like this.
  20. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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