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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Out of curiosity, how do you define a clean shoulder line? I expect red lines.

    I feel that all three are about equally good--mostly just different.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2015
  3. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I'd call the Formosa straighter, which I suppose you could call cleaner. The first one has a rather convex shape, which I don't love. A bit much padding for the totally bald sleeve heads, maybe, and perhaps not positioned perfectly for the shape of the shoulders under it. Not helped by the gorge, which is insanely high. The second one has a very natural shoulder line, not perfectly clean and straight, but pretty good-looking. The Formosa has really beautiful shoulders, if you like a soft-but-straight line. I've been struck a couple of times, recently, by how the soft, drape-y chests on the Formosa stuff work beautifully with the clean fitting, slightly roped shoulders.

    Also, unsolicited, but I'm not sure about those jeans, @TweedyProf .
     
  4. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    He borrowed them from Noodles to go shopping.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    See below :).


    I do not really care for convex shoulders. The Eidos shoulders almost look a tad "pa-fucked," if you allow me to borrow a term from the NSM thread. Don't get me wrong--off the peg, all three look very nice. But I like the shoulder line on the Formosa the best. I just think they sit on him very nicely, and they don't have that wavy convex shape.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @kulata got the makers right.

    @venividivicibj the fabric is really quite beautiful, really a perfect light material for a summer jacket. do think there's a limit to the jacket's versatility in terms of trouser pairings. I would not be a fan of northern lights in a summer fit though I suppose it might work with the right blue trouser. But I would happily wear the jacket with white, cream or light stone/grey trousers. I'm toying with the idea of organizing a GMTO in the navy version of the same fabric, though I would actually prefer something a touch lighter from true navy (see below).

    @ellsbebc The collars are the Kamakura collar but done with some slight tweaks through my shirts via Hemrajani (mytailor).

    @YRR92 They are beat up jeans. Perhaps too beat up for the BD, but I don't mind.

    My own take: I actually like the second and third the best though I would happily wear all three. The length, opening of the quarters, and width of the lapel are fine. The shoulders are different in each, and I agree that the Formosa has the straighter, and hence more desirable shoulder. The sleeve head differs in each with more extension in the Eidos and Formosa.

    I have several in the Tipo fit, which is the jacket in the first picture though I generally have to have the waist taken in a touch for me to be satisfied with it). I don't mind the higher gorge as it's a balance between having the appearance of a wide lapel that doesn't feel wide given the upward swoop..

    The SuSu is the Jort which would pretty much work untailored with the exception of a little bit of clean-up under the collar in the back. But the sleeves need no alteration and the length is fine. I was surprised how well the Jort fit and given that it is depending on the fabric a third of the price of the Formosa, is very tempting. The wonderful thing about Formosa, of course, is the selection of fabrics, the provenance, and the construction.

    On possible Formosa GMTO fabrics, here are two I'm thinking of, but Greg and Kyle have tons of books to flip through:

    Here's the Navy Delfino (though something a touch lighter might be nice):
    [​IMG]

    This heavy weight blue/grey herringbone might be something to consider for next winter too.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here's an Eidos where the shoulder line is straighter.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2015
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  9. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    No, I like beat-up jeans, but that rise seems really low – and in that light, I was worried they were (gasp) distressed.
     
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    YRR92 Whiskers, fades and bruises are properly earned.

    Claghorn: 4209 seems to me quite nice as well. Classic strong herringbone, but not just grey.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Looks nice, if it has the same feel/texture as the light brown would be really nice
     
  12. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    I agree, but it would be too similar to my inky blue formosa.

    That winter herringbone though
     
  13. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Trying to get up to speed -- what is a northern lights outfit?
     
  14. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    ^ Jacket is lighter color than the pants.

    While we have swatches out, I wonder if anyone would have an idea of where I could find a particular fabric, in this case from Holland and Sherry. I took this pic from one of their books at a Harry Rosen who put them out for the sake of their MTM Samuelsohns. As much as I do really like Samuelsohn jackets, I'd rather find the fabric myself and take it to a local tailor where I think I'd end up spending about half as much as if I were going through Harry Rosen. I've tried on jackets in this fabric a couple of times and really like the blue houndstooth, I just don't see spending in the $1,700-$2,000 range.

    Anyway, Holland and Sherry #821019 from (I believe) a book labeled 'Peacock'.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2015
  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    luckily (or sadly) I don't have that.

    I actually need a blue blazer....
     
  16. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    @TweedyProf overall gestalt: Formosa (requires sleeve adjustment) > Suit Supply > Eidos.
     
  17. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @poorsod

    I agree, and that seems to be the general consensus too.
     
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Forest (darker) green coats (ignore type of fabric and focus on color). Fall and Spring?
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2015
  19. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    I like the idea of owning something like the jacket below but wonder if it's difficult to find dark green fabric/jackets that aren't more country than city?

    [​IMG]
     
  20. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Forest green for me is ideally fall/winter. Can be worn in spring, too, but I gravitate toward slightly lighter greens in the springtime.

    It's a color that looks good in a whole range of fabrics and textures, from heavy tweed to lightweight hopsack.
     

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