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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    Textured solid - Navy/Burg Knit ftw!
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Even a repp would be too dressy for a fabric like that. That suit screams for a knit. Any colour goes: navy, burgundy, brown, green, black, mid-blue....
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. calypso

    calypso Senior member

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    thanks fellas :)
    a solid knit or grenadin it is.
     
  4. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    I'm going with a rich, bottle green grenadine.
     
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  5. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I'll cop to coming from a "repps with everything" kinda tradition.
     
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  6. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    What do you guys think of these patterns for shirting?
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    fugly, Darkside
     
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  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They seem like something the Boardwalk Empire costumers might have chosen for one of Nucky's shirts. Not ugly, but very period.
     
  9. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    Looks like I have a thing or two to learn about shirting patterns and fabrics...
     
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  10. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Cheat sheet: light blue and white bengal/university. Same pattern in red. Mid-blue pinstripes on white. Light blue or pink with white pinstripes. If you want two colors, try a check.
     
  11. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    Thank you! Any fabric and collar preferences?
     
  12. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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  13. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    That's situational. Nightmarishly, this great illustration calls a what I think of as bengal "candy," and uses "bengal" for what I think of as "butcher stripes."

    http://putthison.com/post/29484681861/patterned-and-textured-shirts-as-long-time

    Collar and fabric depend on what you like to wear. I dress casually (tweed, hopsack, and flannel), and in a sorta American idiom, so I wear a lot of oxford buttondowns. If you wear Italian worsted suits, then it makes sense to look at poplin or end-on-end spread collars (dressier collar, dressier cloth). I don't think I'd seek out poplin or end-on-end buttondowns, though I do own a few for summer casual wear, but I would track down oxford or pinpoint spread collars. But generally, if you did buttondowns in casual cloth (oxford, linen blends maybe pinpoint), and non-buttondowns (whatever degree of spread you like) in poplin and end-on-end, you'd be set, unless you don't like buttondown collars with a tie, in which case you should do some spreads in casual cloth. I myself want some more shirts like that: I'd like to start wearing more spread collars in place of my OCBDs.

    You didn't ask about this, but the one thing I wish I'd been told earlier about striped shirts is the importance of contrast. A dark blue stripe on white is way harder to wear than a light blue one:

    This is starting to fight with the tie:

    [​IMG]
    ... but this is a lot easier to pair with patterned ties...
    [​IMG]
    ... and it ends up working with more stuff even though the pattern is about the same scale. Actually, I stay away from high-contrast stripes when they're "symmetrical" like that, but I will wear a fairly high-contrast pinstripe on white.

    I admit, I'm giving you "safe" advice. I take more risks than this in some of what I wear (I have a self-striped lavender shirt, an ecru with stripes in two shades of brownish gray, and one or two fancy-striped Turnbull & Asser-ish shirts), but those have been thrift finds (and thus impulse buys), rather than carefully considered purchases.
     
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  14. MrTRC

    MrTRC Senior member

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    If you have about 50 shirts in your wardrobe? Sure, rock the funky shirt man! Otherwise, i'd avoid.
     
  15. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    @calypso , I like a repp too - maybe a shantung, and I'm also a pervert who wears madder neats in the summer. But the safe and awesome choice against blue and grey is a burgundy grenadine: perfect contrast, summery-casual texture, yet solid and formal enough not to look like a caricature. As the jacket has a pattern, a solid but textured tie is probably just the right level of visual interest, and the warmth of a rich burgundy will lift the whole picture against the cool colours you already have.

    @Darkside , oh hell no. The finer the stripe, the easier to wear, and one colour stripe is plenty. White or light blue solid, blue micro-stripe, light pink solid, blue Bengal stripe...formal shirts in order of priority as basics! Also, in the summer especially I like a blue micro-check too. Like stripes, the finer the check, the easier to wear. And a normal spread collar is never wrong with a suit or jacket - just enough for the tips to sneak under the lapels for a smooth look.

    @Claghorn , come on big boy, show us your piece.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015
  16. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  17. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Hang in there, Yoda*. This is Styleforum. Euphemism, double entendre and awkward homoeroticism are some of the many vital pillars on which this community is built.



    *(I bet you didn't know anyone reads your name as "El Yoda").
     
    6 people like this.
  18. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  19. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    LOL! Indeed I didn't, but I've changed my avatar accordingly.
     
    6 people like this.
  20. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    Thanks for all the GNA guys. This shirting conversation actually coincided with my first Proper Cloth project arriving today (the revised fit version). Hope it's not too fugly.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    6 people like this.

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