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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    At the risk of being expelled from this thread ...

    I own navy linen trousers and will wear those with walnut AE Strands, a check pattern shirt or light blue poplin shirt, and obviously a matching belt.

    I think it's a perfectly acceptable casual look.

    I don't wear a jacket over navy pants, though. And the linen ones are all I own in navy outside of a navy suit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
    2 people like this.
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    ^ i like that look. i posted a similar pic in the OP of my navy pants thread. did u see it?
     
  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Not yet.

    I was about to re-read a couple threads to see what the "old guard" had to say. I suspect their comments were along that line - fine for dressed down and casual and not so fine if you want to wear a tie and jacket.

    Off the top of my head I can't really think of a jacket I'd wear over navy pants.
     
  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It really depends on your stance regarding light jacket/dark pants combos. If you don't like them, you'll never like a jacket with navy pants. If you do, then there are options.
     
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Re: pricing, Steed starts at 700 British Pounds for an odd jacket and 950 British Pounds for a suit. The MTM suit I have appears to be half canvassed (I did not end up ordering the fully canvassed version) and is nicely made IMO. An additional 250 British Pounds will get you a full canvassed odd jacket or suit (so 950 British Pounds or 1200 British Pounds respectively). If you double the fully canvassed MTM prices, you basically end up with what you'd be paying for bespoke from them. If you ever want to indulge in buying one of the London Lounge cloths and having it made up, Steed will give you a discount of what seems to be around 400 British Pounds which would subsidize most of the price of the cloth.

    With respect to Steed MTM, one nice thing (standard at a lot of bespoke shops but not at many MTM places) is that you are getting access to a wide range of quality fabrics (including things like Lesser) and are not paying an upcharge for them beyond their advertised prices. I figured Hemrajani would probably end up charging around $1,600 for a suit from a Lesser 13oz cloth, so trying Steed for about $100 more did not seem like too bad of an idea. It's also a nice way to get a feel for their house style without committing to a full bespoke commission (also nice to not have to wait 6+ months for a garment due to having to deal with fittings for the impatient among us). $2,000 or so (depending on the exact British Pound / Dollar rate) for a fully canvassed MTM suit from a quality UK firm is not a bad deal. Plus Edwin and Matthew aren't going to let you leave with a suit that does not fit well and stand by their product.
     
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  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Seems like a workable summer look (though I personally like shoes that are a bit darker with navy and would probably use loafers or monks instead of oxfords). Linen odd trousers are also the only odd trousers I own in navy and I also would not wear them with a jacket.
     
  7. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Agree on the slightly darker - I'm not a loafers person and the walnut strand was more a function of a limited shoe wardrobe last summer. This year I have a shoe that's a bit darker which I think would work a little better.

    I kind of do like the tan/navy look, though. May be in the minority there.
     
  8. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Kind of an appropriate post even if its not working. Todays combo. Charcoal Speck SC, Navy HY Trousers,

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That looks like it could be quite good. When did you get the Younts?
     
  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tm79.
    I actually think you can get decent results with suit supply, for sports coat from 450-800
    Or so, last time I looked. My one coat from them just needs dropping the length one inch which will lower the stance. But it fits well otherwise. Decent fabrics though not the quality available throug Steed I suspect.
     
  11. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think for gray on top, blue on bottom might work well. Mostly, I've been contemplating one gray herringbone. Something brown on tan seems plausible, but some version of blue seems in principle possible. Of course depends on what sort of blue.

    There's a monotony of mid gray that seems worth breaking in the course of a weeks fits.

    JRD thanks for the link. Will check it out. I started Mantons book. Was fun though I didn't finish it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2014
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just perused JRDs thread which granted I read quickly. My question is about color combinations. I am moved by avoiding if possible navy worsteds avoiding the dreaded orphan suit component look.

    But set that aside. There are several pics showing navy odd trousers done very well. The armoury pics are illustrative and I don't think the chosen combos are earth shattering. Alan See wearing tan gun club over navy and Jake wearing a gray checked over navy. These are not advanced combos and the look good (it helps that the clothes are cut so well and the jackets nice). Neither would look better in gray. Brown might work but I don't see that as better than blue.

    I shudder at the workman association argument. Yikes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    And stitch good forceful pushbacks in that thread.
     
  14. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    Thanks. I didn't get a full shot for todays. I was running around too much today. I was thinking overall it would work with a Grey/Charcoal SC but I don't have an orphan one so I nabbed the speck one even though it's a suit jacket just to see how it worked with the pants. Are Grey/Charcoal SC's not a common thing?



    I got two pairs about a month ago. They were both at the tailors and I was out all last week on the road for work so just now getting a chance to wear them. These are the other ones I got. Pardon the sheen sox.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    i think the armoury guys are long past caring about SF rules.

    as i recall it from manton, a lot of it has more to do with people only having one suit or something and then people thinking your pants were orphaned suit pants and other stuff like that. i do not recall anyone worth a shit asserting that they never look good. and if they do, they are wrong. its one thing to follow certain theories on formality or perception, but to say that objectively it is never pleasing to the eye is plain stupid to me.


    thanks! tho i do not recall what i said there lol. :embar:
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
  16. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    @TM79 PM me if you want Steed's full price list for MTM.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is this jrd thread everyone's referencing? I thought we agreed that sugarbutch would get the heads-up when the conversation has moved. This is not cool, bros.
     
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    ur welcum
     
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  19. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    From what I recall, there seems to be no issue with navy odd trousers worn without a jacket. Many do prefer medium grey when it comes to odd trousers, jacket or no, but total disdain for navy odd trousers in any context has got to be a minority position among posters on here. I wear navy odd trousers in linen during the summer. Grey to me is just a better F/W color so I don't wear navy odd trousers outside of summer, but I am sure they can work in some contexts.

    Manton has said, "I don't understand the eye that does not rebel at seeing navy trousers with a tailored jacket," which is pretty strong language IMO and I've seen some other language on how navy odd trousers do not belong with tailored jackets from other pretty well respected voices on here. From some of his other posts and looking at what others have said on the subject, a lot of it seems to relate to historical norms (grey was used far more than navy for odd trousers), it being easier for a darker jacket and lighter trouser combination to look good than the reverse (argument also used against charcoal odd trousers) and the fact that medium grey just works with a lot of different things. I suspect the disapproval of navy odd trousers with tailored jackets is an aesthetic principal that applies in a majority of cases combined with a historical norm of things just being done a certain way.

    I can't imagine any odd jacket I own looking better with navy odd trousers than either medium or light grey (may not be the case for everyone but I just don't see how they'd work better with any of my odd jackets) and find tan / cream to give me the added diversity I desire if I do not wish to wear grey (though RAF blue flannel odd trousers do tempt me quite a bit). I think most would agree that it is harder to make navy odd trousers work with most tailored jacket than light or medium grey (i.e. thus not a staple and not for beginners).
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    1 person likes this.

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